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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a pic of my build last night. Sorry for the bad pic, but it was about 11:00 pm when we were this far so it was dark outside.

We got her all together very smooth until the drivetrain. I am just using the standard top pull derailer and not messing with the e-type stuff and included etype adaptor clamp.

While adjusting the derailers and setting up the drivetrain, we found no possible way to cycle it through all the gears while on the stand. I have achieved optimum chainline which is right on with the recommended 128mm BB.

The problem is going to the smallest rear gear while in the granny front and having the chain rubbing the bottom of the derailer cage. This combination will be rarely used of course, but it is still nice to be able to run it through all of the gears and make sure it will work smooth while setting or tuning derailers and shifters and such.

While sitting or riding the bike, the bike sags so much that all of this is gone and I am able to use this combination fine it would appear. Is this how this is supposed to be or am I missing something?

This is fine if this is how it is supposed to be, but I am curious if this is just a VPP issue with the linkages lowering the rear so much until it is being sat upon or if other DH type bikes have this same kind of thing. With a single ring up front this is a non issue, but this bike is capable of handling three rings.
 

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its normal for that to occur. happins on my bighit and i use 2 rings. your not supposed to run it on the last cog while on the granny anyway--stresses the chain. for speed, you should already switch to the middle ring and use the granny for climbing only--i bet you know that already---bottom line, its normal...
 

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Master_Jako said:
its normal for that to occur. happins on my bighit and i use 2 rings. your not supposed to run it on the last cog while on the granny anyway--stresses the chain. for speed, you should already switch to the middle ring and use the granny for climbing only--i bet you know that already---bottom line, its normal...
Welcome to the world of "Ghost Tuning" u never know when, what, or why the chain wants to go indifferent combos. If it works correctly while ur under way then its good. The VPP design runs so much sag, thats why it has 8.5" Sag 30% and ur looken at a good ride. Maybe you need alittle more tension on the front deruiller cable, barrel adjuster at the top, or do it with the clamp. Hows she ride, it looks super sweet. post a nice review!
 

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I Just Ride
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Slayer

What size front drlr are you using? I figure it's either a 31.8 or 34.9 just want to make sure before I order one.

Are those raceface cranks you're using? I can't tell from the pic. If so did you have any problems with the non drive bearing like speedgoat documented. I've got a single ring on mine right now, got some atlas cranks ordered should be in wednesday.

That polished finished is cool. I had a polished Titus Switchblade a couple of years ago. Get some Flitz metal polish for it, that stuff works great.

Thanks

PCC

edit My chart says I should only run 22mm of sag which is the max amount of sag on my chart.
 

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OMG ur kidding me...

that bike looks so sweet...and yeh MTB chains unlike BMX flex sidways but only have a certain ammount of flex which enables us to have gears and them not...anyways its fine...its not doing damage or anything...

and ill say it again that bike frickin rocks...OMG...go and ride...stop worrying about chains and go ride...and plus u onyl posted that coz u wanted to show off ur new bike...shame on u...:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey thanks for the replies, comments and asnwers.

Here are some updates for those interested or are planning on building one.
We tried many combos to get everything working just right. After getting the shifting issues and chainline and stuff worked out, we had another problem.

Because the 128mm BB is so long, there is a big void between the EVIL guide backplate and the granny ring. This combined with the throw of the front derailer not being quite long enough lets the chain drop between the granny and the BB. This perhaps may be fixed via the etype derailer and clamp and everything associated with that, but that whole setup seems cheesy to me so I was determined to make this work.

Solution? A 118mm BB instead of 128mm. The 128 is just too long. With a 118 everything is now smooth. Chainline is perfect, no skipping chain, derailer throw is fine. Everything so far is great.

I am going on a morning ride tomorrow which consists of a pretty long and not very fun climb. I know the bullits are supposed to climb well, but that is what I had befor this and I did not enjoy this climb on that so this will be a good comparison test.

Here are some more pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
IJR said:
What size front drlr are you using? I figure it's either a 31.8 or 34.9 just want to make sure before I order one.

Are those raceface cranks you're using? I can't tell from the pic. If so did you have any problems with the non drive bearing like speedgoat documented. I've got a single ring on mine right now, got some atlas cranks ordered should be in wednesday.

That polished finished is cool. I had a polished Titus Switchblade a couple of years ago. Get some Flitz metal polish for it, that stuff works great.

Thanks

PCC

edit My chart says I should only run 22mm of sag which is the max amount of sag on my chart.
The front derailer is a 34.9 XT.

The cranks are just my old RaceFace Tubine LP ISIS cranks. I was going to get the Diablous or ATLAS, but there is issues with the external bearings seating flat to the BB shell. This can be worked around by facing the BB shell to remove a little protrusion that is there. There was also an issue of achieving the proper 55mm chainline required. The new RaceFace are only 48-51mm. I believe with proper shim configs and such, people are getting this close enough to be a non issue as well. I also hear that RaceFace is working on a longer spindle for this issue and will be released in a few months so I will probably wait until then to get mine.
 

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I Just Ride
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Thanks Slayer,

The mech at my LBS says that race.face already has a retro kit for the spindles. I think since I'm only going to run two rings I'll be ok using spacers. Freaking rain has kept me from taking mine out let me know how it climbs and jumps.
 

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noMAD man
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Try a piece of fuel line on the cage.

slayer2003 said:
Here is a pic of my build last night. Sorry for the bad pic, but it was about 11:00 pm when we were this far so it was dark outside.

We got her all together very smooth until the drivetrain. I am just using the standard top pull derailer and not messing with the e-type stuff and included etype adaptor clamp.

While adjusting the derailers and setting up the drivetrain, we found no possible way to cycle it through all the gears while on the stand. I have achieved optimum chainline which is right on with the recommended 128mm BB.

The problem is going to the smallest rear gear while in the granny front and having the chain rubbing the bottom of the derailer cage. This combination will be rarely used of course, but it is still nice to be able to run it through all of the gears and make sure it will work smooth while setting or tuning derailers and shifters and such.

While sitting or riding the bike, the bike sags so much that all of this is gone and I am able to use this combination fine it would appear. Is this how this is supposed to be or am I missing something?

This is fine if this is how it is supposed to be, but I am curious if this is just a VPP issue with the linkages lowering the rear so much until it is being sat upon or if other DH type bikes have this same kind of thing. With a single ring up front this is a non issue, but this bike is capable of handling three rings.
Even though I don't think there's any real wear or damage issue on the cage or chain, it's nice to have it quietened down a bit. Put about a 1/2" length of 1/4" I.D. automotive fuel line on that part of the cage. You just split the piece of fuel line and wedge it in there. Cut the line to where it's just touching the sides of the cage gate but can still spin around a bit when the chain really slaps it. Be sure to use reinforced fuel line as it will last a very long time.
 

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