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Discussion Starter #3
i ride on single tracks and some steep slopes every now and then, and i'm not too confident doing them with the seat high, and its really inconvenient having to unscrew the clamp and pushing the seat down every time i come across such a section...

so i'm guessing my other option would be to get a seatpost such as the joplin, but man those things will add 500g to my ultra light bike... what are my options?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i guess i'll have to polish my techniques a little better then... :). thanks!

another question. i've realised that my seat post slides down on its own during a ride. ive realised that this is because the clamp is not screwed tightly enough, but it seems pretty tight to me. i could probably tighten it a little more but because i've already lived through the nightmare of having a broken carbon frame once, I am kinda hesitant on tighetning it more. is there a possibility that if i tighten it too much, i could break it?
 

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ups and downs
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If your shop has any of the TACX carbon paste you can apply that to the post, that will increase the friction at the clamp, it ships with a lot of carbon parts like FSA, it's a red jelly-like paste with some scientifically appropriate grit mixed in. My seatpost clamp is tightened using the short arm on the 4mm allen key to apply the torque with a thumb and forefinger, using the TACX paste, that is enough to keep the post from moving under my 195-200pound butt.

Over tightening can hurt the seatpost as well as the frame.
 

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It's a bit tricky with carbon on carbon. The Tacx paste works great, though plain ol' chalk works too sometimes. Whatever you do, DON'T grease the post. I assume you haven't already?

PS: this may seem incredibly obvious to you, but saddle selection is key here... I tried a WTB Devo a few seasons ago (my standard saddle at the time was the WTB Rocket V), and I couldn't get behind it to save my life. Way too much flare for me, my *huge tree trunk thighs :rolleyes: * kept catching... Immediately went back to the Rocket V.
 

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Do you have the correct size seatpost? May want to check with a set of digital calipers. Unlikely the wrong size, but best to check everything to be certain.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ChunkyMonkey said:
Do you have the correct size seatpost? May want to check with a set of digital calipers. Unlikely the wrong size, but best to check everything to be certain.
I use the stock 30.9 mm Easton EC70 that came with the bike itself. So I'm pretty sure the size is correct. I'll check it with a caliper nevertheless.

rockyuphill said:
If your shop has any of the TACX carbon paste you can apply that to the post, that will increase the friction at the clamp, it ships with a lot of carbon parts like FSA, it's a red jelly-like paste with some scientifically appropriate grit mixed in. My seatpost clamp is tightened using the short arm on the 4mm allen key to apply the torque with a thumb and forefinger, using the TACX paste, that is enough to keep the post from moving under my 195-200pound butt.

Over tightening can hurt the seatpost as well as the frame.
I am not too heavy either, at 150 pounds. So it's definitely not the weight thats pushing it down :)

RMB-PM said:
It's a bit tricky with carbon on carbon. The Tacx paste works great, though plain ol' chalk works too sometimes. Whatever you do, DON'T grease the post. I assume you haven't already?

PS: this may seem incredibly obvious to you, but saddle selection is key here... I tried a WTB Devo a few seasons ago (my standard saddle at the time was the WTB Rocket V), and I couldn't get behind it to save my life. Way too much flare for me, my *huge tree trunk thighs * kept catching... Immediately went back to the Rocket V.
I'll try getting behind the saddle, I agree toning by techniques is a lot better than looking for other options.

May be I'm just being a little over paranoid and I should tighten the screw a little more. I'll gather a bit more courage... :)
 

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Use some sort of paste / chalk regardless... Better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
RMB-PM said:
Use some sort of paste / chalk regardless... Better safe than sorry.
I'm sorry this might sound like a silly question but can I use the same chalk that is used in rock climbing?
 

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I had the same exact problem with my ec90 post on my rsl.I torqued it to spec and it slipped after a short ride. I applied some carbon friction paste and retorqued the clamp to spec. My post hasn't slipped since I applied the paste.I would highly recommend using a torque wrench when working with carbon. I have found that "tight" by hand is usually excessive. Good luck.
 

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I had problem with my post slipping too. I applied regular grease.:nono:

I then used a little carbon paste and never had my post move during a complete season.
I've also found that the stock bolt that came on my vertex rsl had very little bolt socket depth for the 4mm allen and was prone to stripping. After some tightening and untightening the bolt was damaging itself (no overtorquing). I've put a regular bolt and the problem was solved.
 

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My Vertex RSL's maiden ride last weekend happened to be an XC race - I was goaded in to racing it on its first outing by my mates. I thought - well, so what. Gotta get stuck in. Towards the end of the first lap, legs and back were burning, so suspected seatpost slippage, and found it was down by over an inch. Bit of rummaging to get the allen out; underway in about a minute. Now 3/4 way down the field. Same thing happened on the second lap. On the third lap, stopped again, but found it hadn't slipped down. Same on the fourth. So basically, all this stationary action wasn't conducive to a good race result. :)
 

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Sweptwind said:
My Vertex RSL's maiden ride last weekend happened to be an XC race - I was goaded in to racing it on its first outing by my mates. I thought - well, so what. Gotta get stuck in. Towards the end of the first lap, legs and back were burning, so suspected seatpost slippage, and found it was down by over an inch. Bit of rummaging to get the allen out; underway in about a minute. Now 3/4 way down the field. Same thing happened on the second lap. On the third lap, stopped again, but found it hadn't slipped down. Same on the fourth. So basically, all this stationary action wasn't conducive to a good race result. :)
A maiden ride in a XC race wasn't the best idea...:nono:
 

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What's the recommended torque setting for the clamp bolt?

Rich
 
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