[k1dude]

I have a 2005 Vanilla RL 130 that came with my bike. The spring is too heavy for my weight so I need a lighter spring. But even with the heavier spring, I noticed when I'm out of the saddle cranking up a hill, the fork bobs like crazy. I'm getting about 2 to 3 inches of bob while out of the saddle.

I imagine the bobbing is robbing me of efficiency while climbing. Is this a typical trait of the Vanilla fork? I looked in the manual and it doesn't appear there is any way to adjust the shock to get rid of the bob. I'm thinking I need to switch out the Vanilla to an SPV fork.

 

[lebikerboy]

Use your lockout for climbing.

I have a 2005 Vanilla RL 130 that came with my bike. The spring is too heavy for my weight so I need a lighter spring. But even with the heavier spring, I noticed when I'm out of the saddle cranking up a hill, the fork bobs like crazy. I'm getting about 2 to 3 inches of bob while out of the saddle.

I imagine the bobbing is robbing me of efficiency while climbing. Is this a typical trait of the Vanilla fork? I looked in the manual and it doesn't appear there is any way to adjust the shock to get rid of the bob. I'm thinking I need to switch out the Vanilla to an SPV fork.

 

[goatman]

Vanilla RL 130 bobbing

Due to the lack of slow-speed compression damping adjustment there is little you can do to decrease the bobbing/wallowing effect when climbing except lock out the fork as suggested by lebikerboy.
If you have money to burn have the fork PUSHed, this creates a SPV feel with little bobbing.

 

[Dougal]

It's not your fork robbing your efficiency. It's your fork showing how inefficient your pedalling is.

If you can work to smooth out your cranking motion, your climbing should improve.

 

[frankenbike]

It's not your fork robbing your efficiency. It's your fork showing how inefficient your pedalling is.

If you can work to smooth out your cranking motion, your climbing should improve.

Riding techniques can minimalize bobbing like Dougal said.

When you climb out of the saddle, try different postions to center your weight. Try to keep your upper body from coming down to much, this will cause the fork to pogo.

 

[k1dude]

Thanks for the responses.

I don't want to use my lockout because the trails I like to ride have lots of very steep and technical quick up and down action. Even if I had the time to take my hand off the bar and bend down to engage the lockout, I'd wipe out due to the very technical terrain.

My pedaling action is fine on long grinding climbs. It's the very short and steep surprise climbs that appear as you round a corner that have me out of the saddle trying to clear them. I bob like crazy on those.

How much does it cost to PUSH a fork and what is it?

 

[Dougal]

My pedaling action is fine on long grinding climbs. It's the very short and steep surprise climbs that appear as you round a corner that have me out of the saddle trying to clear them. I bob like crazy on those.

You can still work on your technique to sort it out. I trail ride with a 7" fork, if your pedalling sucks then it's quick to let you know.

 

[Homebrew]

How much does it cost to PUSH a fork and what is it?

PUSH does full custom modification of the fork setup just for you and your riding style. They have their own custom piston design for much more control. They add a high speed rebound circuit in addition to the red knob slow speed rebound adjuster. They also transform your lockout into something more useful, an adjustable platform. After the mods, the lockout lever turns the platform on and off and the blowoff threshold adjusts the level of platform. This makes the fork resists rider motion but still breaks away nicely on the trail. The lever is nice so you can use the platform or switch it off for full on plush mode. You might also be able to upgrade to the RLC if you want to buy the top cap to give you the ability to adjust the slow speed compression.

NOTE: PUSH will be closed for about 10 days while they move to a new facility.

http://www.pushindustries.com/