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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, firstly Hi, newish here.

Secondly, yes I did search, but oddly came back with not a single result (I'm guessing search function down?). I'm sure this MUST have been covered before, so apologies for bringing it up again.

On to the meat of my post:

The late Sheldon Brown, who's opinion I valued extremely highly, states that cartridge pads with the longer leading edge (i.e. the part behind the fixing bolt) asymmetrical design do not need to be toed-in. Makes perfect sense to me, but on searching the 'net I find that many do indeed toe them in, are they wrong to do so?
 

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Official ***** Idiot
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You shouldn't need to, no. That said, I did have to do a slight toe-in on my old XT's and Avid Mags. Not a whole lot, a business card thickness is all. Some of that depends on the pad compound as well.
 

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Old man on a bike
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TuckerUK said:
OK, firstly Hi, newish here.

Secondly, yes I did search, but oddly came back with not a single result (I'm guessing search function down?). I'm sure this MUST have been covered before, so apologies for bringing it up again.

On to the meat of my post:

The late Sheldon Brown, who's opinion I valued extremely highly, states that cartridge pads with the longer leading edge (i.e. the part behind the fixing bolt) asymmetrical design do not need to be toed-in. Makes perfect sense to me, but on searching the 'net I find that many do indeed toe them in, are they wrong to do so?
I've always installed mine with no toe-in, as was the initial recommendation from the manufacturer and my mechanic buddy at the time...perhaps some still toe them in as was their practice with other brakes.
 

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Photog Cyclist.
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Well IMHO you just need to try it with no toe-in if it don't squeal then you have a winner, if it do squeal better put a little toe-in in!!!! Not a hard thing to test either way it ain't going to hurt anything!!!
 

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I never needed to toe-in any v-brake to make them work as designed. That includes many incarnations of the cheap Tektro and Promax v-brakes; all model versions of Shimano vees, all model versions of Avid vees and some exotic ones like Pauls and kcnc.

I make sure that the flat surface of the pad hits the rim dead flush - with maximum pad contact as the lever is squeezed.

The trick is to unhook the spring tension from the caliper arms during setup to adjust the pad contact onto the rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK then, no toe-in it is (when I actually get round to going cartridge)!

Yes of course I could have used the 'suck it and see' method, but you know, sometimes it's just nice to know THE way.

Cheers all.

P.S
I'll be sure to post my results here, going to be Kool Stop Dual Compound inserts in cheap (but correctly curved) Clarks ally holders, all this on a basic Deore/Deore brake/lever set-up communicating through full XTR cables. Currently on stock Deore non-cartridge pads, so the double whammy of increased rigidity from the ally holder, and increased bite from the Kool Stop Dual Compounds should hopefully be quite noticeable.
 
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