REVIEWS DEALS BIKESHOPS TRAILS

v-brake adjustment

6787 Views 6 Replies 6 Participants Last post by ChrisJ, Jul 6, 2006

FatTire

Discussion Starter · Jul 3, 2006

im sorta new here, so howdy all, anyone who wants to ride the trails in oroville let me know...
now then, does anyone have a good link for instructions on adjusting avid sd v-brakes?
thanks for the help, and have a good one...

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XSL_WiLL

· #2 · Jul 4, 2006

V-brakes are obsolete.

Don't toe the pads if it's not squeeking. Make the pads parallel to the braking surface. Don't position too high (near the tire) or too low (as it wears, you don't want part of it hanging off the rim). Make the caliper arms as far apart as possible by using more spacers with the pads. This gives it more leverage. Keep your rims clean, grit and stuff will wear the braking surface much more quickly.

Use high quality lines and housing. Use smooth bends and turns, try to keep the routing as short and direct as possible. Use a lube like Rock&Roll Cable Magic on the cables.

You don't want the lever biting real early, having it bite in a little later gives your hands more leverage, and towards the end of the pull is where the hand is the strongest.

There should be little screws or bolts on the side near the studs, these adjust the spring tension on the arms. Putting more tension on one arm (dialing it in clockwise) pushes the brake further away from the rim, and pulls the other arm in closer. You can also use these to adjust the feel of the brake at the lever. More tension for a snappier return and more resistance to pull.

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bpotsy

· #3 · Jul 4, 2006

go to avid's website, and look up the pdf file for the installation instructions. i just put a new set of avid v-brakes on the front and that got me through it.

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danoalb

· #4 · Jul 4, 2006

Not so

XSL_WiLL said:
V-brakes are obsolete.

Don't toe the pads if it's not squeeking. Make the pads parallel to the braking surface. Don't position too high (near the tire) or too low (as it wears, you don't want part of it hanging off the rim). Make the caliper arms as far apart as possible by using more spacers with the pads. This gives it more leverage. Keep your rims clean, grit and stuff will wear the braking surface much more quickly.

Use high quality lines and housing. Use smooth bends and turns, try to keep the routing as short and direct as possible. Use a lube like Rock&Roll Cable Magic on the cables.

You don't want the lever biting real early, having it bite in a little later gives your hands more leverage, and towards the end of the pull is where the hand is the strongest.

There should be little screws or bolts on the side near the studs, these adjust the spring tension on the arms. Putting more tension on one arm (dialing it in clockwise) pushes the brake further away from the rim, and pulls the other arm in closer. You can also use these to adjust the feel of the brake at the lever. More tension for a snappier return and more resistance to pull.

First of all will V brakes are not obsolete and a good v brake is WAY more reliable than a disc and easier to trail service. That said DO NOT SET THEM UP AS WIDE AS POSSIBLE :nono: as you will lose all your modulation. Set them up so when the arms are closed on the rims the brakes are parallel to each other. You are right on about the pad placement do not toe unless necessary. The avid SD 7 brakes and levers will perform at almost disc like power without any of the hassles. Run koolstop salmon pads for best performance. You will forget about your brakes once set as they will do the job you want with minimal maintenance. Single digit 7 brakes and levers with koolstop salmon pads set up right are one finger braking in all conditions.

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XSL_WiLL

· #5 · Jul 4, 2006

danoalb said:
First of all will V brakes are not obsolete and a good v brake is WAY more reliable than a disc and easier to trail service. That said DO NOT SET THEM UP AS WIDE AS POSSIBLE :nono: as you will lose all your modulation. Set them up so when the arms are closed on the rims the brakes are parallel to each other. You are right on about the pad placement do not toe unless necessary. The avid SD 7 brakes and levers will perform at almost disc like power without any of the hassles. Run koolstop salmon pads for best performance. You will forget about your brakes once set as they will do the job you want with minimal maintenance. Single digit 7 brakes and levers with koolstop salmon pads set up right are one finger braking in all conditions.

I disagree. In my opinion, not more reliable than a good disc setup.

You're right, setting it up wide will mean you'll have no modulation, but more leverage. I only rode rim brakes with trials and BMX, modulation was not a big deal, I needed it to bite hard.

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Tarbaby4Ever

· #6 · Jul 5, 2006

FatTire said:
im sorta new here, so howdy all, anyone who wants to ride the trails in oroville let me know...
now then, does anyone have a good link for instructions on adjusting avid sd v-brakes?
thanks for the help, and have a good one...

When in real doubt head over to your LBS for help.I switched the pads on my xtr v's and made a mess of the brakes,a trip to the shop and a 4 pack of beer and they are now stopping as well as near any cable actuated disc brake,I have tried.Most of the online guides that claim to explain the 'how to' on v brake setup,dont do the best of jobs in the explaining department...

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ChrisJ

· #7 · Jul 6, 2006

I've been runing a XT lever XTR caliper set up. No problems at all. I live down in Mississippi, yes our trails may not have the hills like up north or out west. But they get the job done and then some.

V-brakes are obsolete.

I guess you think a light weight hardtail is obsolete to?

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