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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
Tid bits

Last night when riding with the BT40S on the bars I noticed a couple things I thought worth mentioning. First the 40S I use is using the standard stock optic. I've been saying for quite a while now that the BT40S has a very good close in beam pattern. Last night while doing a slow climb I was able to compare the useable beam pattern of both the BT40S and BT21 during a slow climb ( BT21 with one spot optic and one standard flood ).

During slow climbs up debris strewn trails I find that I constantly have to weave back and forth as I endeavor to avoid loose rocks in order to maintain momentum. This of course means that the bar beam pattern is moving back and forth constantly. I noticed that when I use the BT21 on these climbs that I sometime lose significant illumination of the trail directly in front of me while the beam pattern pans back and forth. Of course if you're using a helmet lamp then this really isn't a major factor BUT....I noticed when I use the BT40S on these same slow climbs that I still can see the trail directly in front of me even though the beam pattern is panning back and forth. I thought that worth noting because while the BT40S might not have a lot of throw it does a very good job illuminating trail features directly in front of the bike.

I do have one small complaint though; I noticed when changing modes on the BT40S that if I'm moving and trying to change modes rapidly I don't always get the lamp into the mode I want. This is probably due to all the bouncing around I do while trying to change modes. I also noticed the same thing if I try to turn the lamp off while bouncing around. Sometimes the lamp will momentarily turn off and then turn right back on again. On smooth trails or slow riding none of this happens. I figure this has something to do with the up/down two-way switch. None of my other lamps do this nor does the BT21.

At some point I'll likely return to using my Gloworm X2 ( after getting it modded with neutral XM-L2's. That said, there's a good chance I'll continue to use the BT40S. I'm thinking maybe switch it over to the flood optic and just let it run on low and let the Gloworm take care of the stuff in the distance. That way when I do those slow climbs I'll still see stuff very near the bike no matter where the front of the bike is pointing. Matter of fact, that strategy would work very well particularly if you run a helmet lamp with a narrow beam pattern. With a good flood on the bars no need to run the helmet lamp on a slow climb, at least that's my theory. A theory I'll soon be testing.
 

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RAKC
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Battery pack isn't at least as high of capacity and I watched video reviews they got people (that know little to nothing about bike lights) to do. The generic head strap, the optics they broke in the video trying to change them, and broke easily. Yet ive had mine in and out several times no issues. Forgot the other points I mentioned before beyond the...ill be nice...people that got to review them.
 

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Can't say anything for the accessories in the either light set as I don't have any. I've just got the bare BT40s head. It would be nice to measure capacity of the both on a good hobby charger like iCharger 106B+ and plot the curves. Then I would say something. Otherwise I would not trust much on reviews at Amazon.
Regarding head only I think they might be pretty much the same. Broking lenses is mybe just the people didn't have right skills to do it. It's hard to broke it if you place right. So this is also bit clumsy to me.

Of course I can't say for shure and we only know very well what we got. Tig, you should get one to compare. Try to contact the seller....
 

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RAKC
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Not going jsut off the reviews, but this shows the level of intelligence of the seller, having no clue what they are selling:

"Long battery life (4 AA DURACELL batteries INCLUDED)"

Other stuff I took from what useful info I found in the video reviews. I do remember the original listing had the batteries listed at like 4000mah.

Ok going through the reviews, THE SELLER is up to something. The reviews that were there I originally made fun of arent there, the reviews date back to may, not march like before..... All say verified purchase now. Oh and they have at least a couple cyclists for the video reviews now too (after my poking fun at their reviews not having a single cyclist

I doubt they will have me do it because im not a "top 100 reviewer" for amazon :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
I think the basic difference between the Vomlite and the Nitefighter BT40S is that the 40S is using neutral tinted XP-G2 emitters and the Vomlite is cool white. The reviews on the Vomlite lamp indicated that most people liked the lamp although there were some complaints about the plastic O-ring base breaking. I'm not sure what you get with the battery but if it's at least 4000mAh than that's not a bad battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 ·
From the pictures in the reviews I woudn't say it is cool white. This picture as an example posted on August 18, 2015.
...:)....Either you're joking or you didn't understand that I was talking about the emitter bin. There is no mention in the Vomlite ad that the lamp is using XP-G2 "neutral" emitters. This usually means the lamp is using an emitter bin for cool white. One guy did a video review and while it is hard to judge from video, to my eyes the beam look more white than the BT40S.

For FWIW, you can't tell emitter bin by looking at the front of the lamp. You need to look at the output. Big difference between the cool white bins and the neutral bins.

Sorry if you didn't understand what I said the first time. ;)
 

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I was not joking :) and I understand very well the tints. I didn't even read descriptions. We all know what they are worth (well most of the time).

I dissagree with your opinion you can't tell emmiter bin just by looking at it at the front. You can't be very exact, though. But from my experience the colour of the phosphor layer is very indicative. Cool whites have lemon yellow tint, warm whites are pretty much orange and neutral in between. If the white balance of the picture was pretty much correct, you can see in which class led belongs. Of course you can miss exact bins for maybe +/-2, but you can pretty much see the class (CW, NW, WW).

Not the best picture to demonstrate that, but this is what I've found in my archive right now. From left to right 1A (KD2) over 3C (NW MJ880 clone) to 5C (problematic Yinding with almost WW tint):



I've taken this picture in a process of provement of the bad Yinding batch. If you carefuly look at the leds you can recognize different yellow hue.
All in all it translates in a light seing by my camera:
 

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Discussion Starter · #315 ·
Well I don't exactly take the lamps apart and look at the emitters under a magnifying glass. To my eyes looking at any of them through the optics..they all look the same. The point I was making though is that the Vomlite is not marketed as using neutral bin emitters. ( AFAIK ) Anyway, while I can't tell by looking at the emitter itself I can tell by looking at the illuminated beam pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #316 ·
Email sent off tonight to Nitefighter.

In regards to the BT40S and the BT21 I sent the following letter to the Nitefighter website:

Sirs;

I am a user and reviewer of bike lamps and have been a reviewer of the Nitefighter products by request for one of your employees ( or dealers ). I currently own two BT40S lamps, one BT21 and I currently have a BT70 on order from one of your dealers. The Nitefighter bike lamps have become very popular on the MTBreview.com website.

During many of the conversations I take part in on the MTBreview forum many of the users of your lamps have expressed the desire for some more optical choices for the BT40S and the BT21. The most common request is for a more narrow optic choice. The current BT40S comes with a flood optic and a standard optic. Most people use the standard optic as it provides the most usable beam pattern. However many would like there to be a third option, namely a more narrow 10° optic for the BT40S. The reason for this is because the standard optic has limited distance reach. Most of the light is projected into the first 30.5 meters. There is some light projected into the distance but it is very faint. The advantage of having the 10° optic would mean that people would likely choose to buy two lamps instead of one. One for a close in flood beam pattern and one for more distance illumination. Since the BT40S uses a custom made quad optic there are no optic manufacturers that sell such an item available to the public. Since Nitefighter had the original optics custom made for the lamp undoubtedly you might be able to order a tighter optic from the manufacturer that made the original optics. If you offered these to the owners of your lamps I do not doubt that many would choose to purchase the extra optics and perhaps more lamps.

Regarding the BT21; The same is also true for the BT21. The people who own the lamps want the option for a choice of optics. In case of the BT21 a replacement 15° and 10° optic would make owning the BT21 and even greater value. Currently some people are able to custom adapt optics that are sold at other stores to work in the BT21. Results have been favorable and this has increased the popularity of the BT21 by making it more versatile. Still, the optics being used by most to do this have to be modded to work in the BT21 as they are not exactly built like the originals. Give us more factory optic choices and we will buy them.
I hope someone there reads this and takes it seriously.
 

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RAKC
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Ive said something to them as well without any luck so far. In fairness only the higher end lights have either offerings for different optics or use ledil optics so theirs options. Bt40s may be difficult to do any better with. Bt21 on the other hand they just need to go to using the height of optics that are available aftermarket so we can still use the orings. Wouldn't be hard, make the face plate thicker and machine the bezel so there is another 1mm distance between bezel and emitter, we'd be gtg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #320 ·
...I dissagree with your opinion you can't tell emmiter bin just by looking at it at the front. You can't be very exact, though. But from my experience the colour of the phosphor layer is very indicative. Cool whites have lemon yellow tint, warm whites are pretty much orange and neutral in between......Of course you can miss exact bins for maybe +/-2, but you can pretty much see the class (CW, NW, WW)
Sorry I took so long to comment on what you wrote. Since I have both a neutral and cool white XT40 I can take both side by side, compare the emitters at arms length and I have to tell you, the difference between the color of the emitters is very slight, at least with the ones I have. Yeah, your right. The cool white is a little more lighter yellow than the neutral emitter. You can't tell though unless you are really looking at them very closely and/or using a magnifying glass. For me to be able to tell the difference I had to hold the lamps very close to my face and shine a bit of light directly where I was looking. If I hadn't of known which lamp was which, I don't think I'd be willing to bet money I could tell the difference, especially if I had nothing to compare to. On the other hand let me turn the lamps on and compare them and I'm going to rake in the dough.
 
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