[Weyvoless]

Just got my 04 Zoke, and I'm trying to change the springs, but this is quite different from my 2001 model. So far I've removed the preload and ETA caps, and unscrewed the tops caps. The question now is how do I get the top caps off off the compression rods, so I can remove the springs? Help please!

 

[Padre]

I thought they shipped it today?
Man! Props to Marz_occhi!
Maybe you should try the hammer and the 2x4 approach like we do w/ headset intallations?
Zedro would probably say that approach isn't technically advanced enough..but hey..it could work...
I also thought you told me that Marz_occhi was shipping it w/ the HD springs included?
Update us.. please...
Perhaps you could get some info from the Path? 714 669-0784

 

[Nick.]

Just got my 04 Zoke, and I'm trying to change the springs, but this is quite different from my 2001 model. So far I've removed the preload and ETA caps, and unscrewed the tops caps. The question now is how do I get the top caps off off the compression rods, so I can remove the springs? Help please!

I have an '03. If this has changed with the '04 disregard the info below.

Now that you removed the preload and eta caps, do you see small C-clips holding the top caps onto the damper shafts? Carefully pop those off with a flat screwdriver and you should be all set.

 

[Severum]

You gotta get a little wrench on the red nut (10mm I think) that is inside the spring. I can't picture it now, but if you hold onto that you should be able to unscrew the cap. New fangled complication that surprised me when I was adjusting my oil height. Be careful with those caps as they are aluminum and will crossthread sooooooooo easy.

 

[Severum]

The shorter spring comes as extra heavy. Not sure about the long spring. The fork should be setup for a 180-200 pound rider from the factory.

 

[WaveDude]

Look here:

http://www.daevh.co.uk/bike/service/z1.htm

And here:

http://www.go-ride.com/article_888_springs.htm

And search this forum (or maybe over in shocks) for a message from Brian Peterson on how to do it.

 

[Weyvoless]

Thanks for all the help! My only problem now is that I've got that red jam nut screwed all the way down to the end of the threads, and can't get it loose. I'm going to see if I can get an axle vice today. How important is it to tighten the jam nut up against the top caps?

 

[Severum]

I think you have it where it needs to be. If I remember right, the red nut is screwed all the way down to the bottom of the threads. Give Marzocchi a call if your in doubt. Ask for Tracy or Ronnie. They will hook you up, they always do for me.

 

[zedro]

whoa....easy with those jam nuts or you can snap the cart rod and then you're in for a major repair bill....

 

[WaveDude]

If you're at the step of putting it back together then the top cap should be tightened down all the way, with a socket on the top cap and a wrench on the jam nut, you should be able to turn them against each other and get the jam nut to move up against the top cap. It has to be there.

The position you DO NOT want to be in is taking the top cap OFF, and having the jam nut move all the way at the bottom of the threads and the top cap still not loose. In that case--you can bust the cartridge or split the jam nut because you'll be trying to force the jam nut past the threads. That's where you need the axle vise (good luck fitting one on there with the spring in the way). I fear this may be what got you to this point. You didn't bust anything but it really tightened the jam nut at the bottom of its threads.

I would still call Marz for help at this point. And pass on what you find out.

 

[zedro]

i really hate this about Marz right now, and this has come up before. I cant stand that you pay good dime on a fork, and then Marz undereducates its users by purposely withholding tech information and perpetuating ignorance on how to do simple maintenance and tuning procedures. Changing springs and checking oil levels is such a basic tuning function, yet Marz would rather keep people in the dark on this and risk having people break stuff on their own, than give the proper info and reduce the chance of failiure. But yeah, a little information is a dangerous thing and they wouldn't want to be litigated for educating its users....... i would think they'd be more concerned for peoples safety

maybe they just need better tech writers to properly pass on maintenance procedure....
i'm gonna go and burn some books now....

 

[Severum]

One call to Marzocchi and they will walk you through anything you need to know. I'm sure they even have some documentation they could fax or email to you.

 

[Weyvoless]

I called Marz, and they gave me the info I needed. Basically that jam nut does need to be screwed back up snug against the top cap. I forgot to ask them what the recommended oil levels were . Anyone know off the top of their heads for the 04 Z-1 FR? Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Weyvoless]

Nevermind, I just spoke to Michael in the tech dept. He told me that the oil levels for the 04 Z-1s are 40mm from the top, with the fork fully compressed, and the springs out. Same for both legs.

 

[WaveDude]

Nevermind, I just spoke to Michael in the tech dept. He told me that the oil levels for the 04 Z-1s are 40mm from the top, with the fork fully compressed, and the springs out. Same for both legs.

For not wanting to put it in a manual or something, I wish Marz would at least give out consistent info to everyone.

I've heard 40-60mm is OK. I've also heard that on the ETA side it must be enough to at least cover the top of the cartridge. I believe you are supposed to fully compress both the eta cartridge and the damper too. Tie a string around the top of the eta 'cause it's a pain to pull up once compressed inside the fork.

When I changed the oil in mine it measured 55 on the ETA side and 45 on the damper side from the factory. 40mm seems like a lot of oil to me (less height==more oil) but maybe they took your weight into account.