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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am riding a Giant STP3, and I know it isn't the best bike but I love the geometery. I have found that the part that most needs changing is the crankset and maybe even the bottom bracket. So to my question...

What would be your dream set up for an urban bike? That means it should be strong, but if I can I want to save a little weight. In other words not an all out freeride or downhill crankset.

Also any suggestions on a good value, I am on a budget but dreaming is cool too.

Thanks a lot for any input you may have.
JOSH
 

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JOSH130 said:
I am riding a Giant STP3, and I know it isn't the best bike but I love the geometery. I have found that the part that most needs changing is the crankset and maybe even the bottom bracket. So to my question...

What would be your dream set up for an urban bike? That means it should be strong, but if I can I want to save a little weight. In other words not an all out freeride or downhill crankset.

Also any suggestions on a good value, I am on a budget but dreaming is cool too.

Thanks a lot for any input you may have.
JOSH
The Profile DJ (MTB) is the best, but a good Truvativ Hussef. or Hoz. will do a good job for you.
 

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Have you looked into Middleburns? They're from the UK, are relatively budget minded, but have some killer looking cranks.


just wondering....how much is the STP3 at lbs's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Mine was a killer deal at 300 dollars. They couldn't get rid of it cause it was a 14" but it fit me so well I fell in love. I'll look at the profiles, and the middleburns.

I can also get a great deal on a set of Race Face Prodigy DH cranks, are these worth considering for $70?

I can also get a nice deal on Race Face Evolve DH's. Decisions decisions...

Thanks for the info BTW!
JOSH
 

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USB Rep'n
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I use Truvativ Holzfellers and find them to be great. I have also used RF Turbines (billed as XC but way more sturdy) and think they might even be stiffer.


The Profiles rule but they are heavy and expensive. Save your loot and look at some of the Profile knockoffs. DMR's are nice too!
 

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Rider of Bikes
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JOSH130 said:
Mine was a killer deal at 300 dollars. They couldn't get rid of it cause it was a 14" but it fit me so well I fell in love. I'll look at the profiles, and the middleburns.

I can also get a great deal on a set of Race Face Prodigy DH cranks, are these worth considering for $70?

I can also get a nice deal on Race Face Evolve DH's. Decisions decisions...

Thanks for the info BTW!
JOSH
I got a good deal on Race Face Evolve DH's, and put them on my Kona Cowan. They are pretty beefy, and have held up to a lot of urban abuse. Not a bad choice for the right price.
 

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FSA X Drive Man!!! $350.00 Canadian solid 4130 axle, tubular arms 4 replacable sealed cartige bearings... UNBREAKABLE!!!!
 

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namaSSte said:
.............RF Turbines (billed as XC but way more sturdy) and think they might even be stiffer..................................
as many of these that i've seen twisted up, i have to say the turbines are not an optimal DJ crankset.......

i have a few pairs of cro-mo cranksets and they are all pretty heavy in comparison to alu setups, the profiles and x-drives are bulletproof, but come with a weight penalty. but, with that weight also comes piece of mind, which can't be beaten.......
 

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.WestCoastHucker. said:
as many of these that i've seen twisted up, i have to say the turbines are not an optimal DJ crankset.......
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that's what happens when you're a clyde man (no offense to clydes of course):D

seriously though, Im surprised to hear about guys busting those cranks, mine feel very solid but then again, I only weigh 158. Best bet is prolly to check Dan's Comp and pick up some 3 pc bmx cranks like you mention. My bud has been suing the DK's and loves em (I think Profile might actually make those). The Poverty's are Profile knock offs also and really cheap ($90 for a 3 pc with a euro bb).
 

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Sith said:
FSA X Drive Man!!! $350.00 Canadian solid 4130 axle, tubular arms 4 replacable sealed cartige bearings... UNBREAKABLE!!!!
remeber! The guy is bugdget minded. Wouldnt it be stupid if this dude had X-drves that cost more then his bike? Plus, those STP 3 cranks should last you. Consider the forks your first upgrade man! lol RST stands for Real Sh!ty Tech. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The fork is an SR Suntour which actually feels very nice for the...ummm...humble price. Also keep in mind I weight like 145. You may be confused about my cranks...

Giant screwed me over basically. The bike should have Hussefelts but since mine was one of the very first built it has the generic Giant crants on everything from budget hardtails to Giant Warps. I have already developed a creak and a loosening of the main crank bolt. This is fixed with a little cleaning, but I don't consider it a solid repair. That is why I want new ones, that and a bash gaurd would be nice...

I do not want 3 peice cranks. It is that simple. I know their awesome, but something doesn't seem right about an aluminum bike with steel cranks. Not to mention I won't be abusing them THAT much.

JOSH
 

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Yeah OK, Maybe I got a little carried away. The best fix for keeping cheapies up is cleaning the threads, bolt and spindle with degreaser like Pedro's Orange Peels and then a small amount of 222 locktite. (Brown sleave locking compound) Don't neglect the inside of the spindle and the threads there or the spindle itself. Really tighten the crap out of it and let set the recomended time. It worked like a charm on Devinci Huckers with 5D cranks.
 

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maybe you could find a pair of the SR X-Off's. I've only seen 'em in pics. but i think they look really dope. i'd try them if i had the opportunity....


- 2x-FR: includes Polycarbonate bashguard and middle/inner chainrings - DH/FR mega-oversized crank arms for stiffness & durability
- Includes 22/32t 9spd alloy-middle/steel-inner chainrings
- ISIS: 10-spline 16mm deep spindle taper
- 104/64mm bolt circle diameter 4-arm spider
- 170mm length arms, blast black finish
- 113mm X-OFF ISIS BB recommended
- 1150g: with rings & bashguard
 

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.WestCoastHucker. said:
maybe you could find a pair of the SR X-Off's. I've only seen 'em in pics. but i think they look really dope. i'd try them if i had the opportunity....


- 2x-FR: includes Polycarbonate bashguard and middle/inner chainrings - DH/FR mega-oversized crank arms for stiffness & durability
- Includes 22/32t 9spd alloy-middle/steel-inner chainrings
- ISIS: 10-spline 16mm deep spindle taper
- 104/64mm bolt circle diameter 4-arm spider
- 170mm length arms, blast black finish
- 113mm X-OFF ISIS BB recommended
- 1150g: with rings & bashguard
My God. What have they created? its a beast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
uuuuuuhhhh.... you must have missed the part about watching the weight... just kidding actually.

Thanks for the tips, and I will admit thats pretty much what I had been doing to keep the bike running. Only pain is since I overhauled it I now have to completely reset the front derailleur. Ugh.
What ever I have time now that I blew out both tires trying to find a nice dirt jumping area.

The Evolves are looking really good, but I went down to my dealer and found some strange things out. For instance the Kona Coiler Dee-lux is out fitted with Evolve XCs and not DHs. It might not be a big difference, but if their strong enough for the coiler and lighter XCs could be a better choice. Any one have this kind of info?

As far as Truvativ goes I think they already have the Hussefelt for urbanish bikes. One way or another every single OEM uses them on their dirt jumpers as far as I can tell.

JOSH

(P.S.- don't give people grief for posting outrageously expensive cranks... I did ask what their dream set up would be...problem is my dream set up is a cheap one.)
 
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