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so i'm upgrading the rear shock, from coil to air. OEM furnished a 7.875 x 2" stroke. Will I get any benefit by replacing with a 2.25" storke, or will that just mess with the geometry of the 4 bar and mess stuff up???

Also, anyone have good or bad to say with a fox rp23.....read the reviews, but more interested in the propedal settings. I'm looking for something that can be as close to lockout as possible (have the option) for some steep uphills.....and than swithc to softer ride, for some wicked downhills....
 

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carpe mañana
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hossy said:
so i'm upgrading the rear shock, from coil to air. OEM furnished a 7.875 x 2" stroke. Will I get any benefit by replacing with a 2.25" storke, or will that just mess with the geometry of the 4 bar and mess stuff up???

Also, anyone have good or bad to say with a fox rp23.....read the reviews, but more interested in the propedal settings. I'm looking for something that can be as close to lockout as possible (have the option) for some steep uphills.....and than swithc to softer ride, for some wicked downhills....
Make sure you can run a longer stroke shock. Take your current shock off the frame. There are two ways for you to do a test. One is to remove the coil from the shock, then put the shock back on the frame and compress it all the way. Observe where the is potential for metal on metal contact. Account for the bottom out bumper, that little cone which sits inside of your coil spring, not being compressed all the way (at full bottom out that thing can compress down to a few millimeters). With that in mind, do you think you could get the shock to compress another quarter inch without anything coming in contact in the rear?

Another test, which would yield a more precise result, would be to take a piece of paper or better, a thin strip of wood and mark two holes 7.875in apart (center to center). If it is wood, you could drill holes for the shock bolts to pass through. Then drill two more holes, one 2in inside, the other 2.25in, and see how the linkage looks. If all is good when the bolt is in the 2.25in hole, or on that marker, you ought to be good to go.

On VPP frames, like SC Blur, or DW frames, this might create strange behavior on full bottomout as the linkage behavior is pretty complex and might fall out of proper behavior outside of the range of operations. However, on simple linkages like single pivot or 4-bar, you ought to not have any issues as far as strange behavior is concerned.

_MK
 
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