[dayten]

Hello,

I have a 1999 Stumpjumper FSR XC Pro that I would like to upgrade some parts due to wear and tear. I have purchased the MRP (Mountain Speed) X-Rated linkage from my LBS. I will be ordering the FSR Drop-Out bearing kit from MRP for it. I am looking for some suggestions for the replacement of the rear shock, the front fork and the crank. For the rear shock, I have to a Fox Vanilla Float R that came with the bike. I am not sure what the size is, I will need one that will work with the MRP x-rated linkage. For the front fork, I have a RockShox SID XC, and I believe it is 80mm. With the upgrade of my rear linkage, the rear travel will change from 75mm to 90mm according to MRP. Will it be wise to upgrade to a fork with a 100mm of travel? Or should I keep it at 80mm? Finally my cranks, I have the standard Specialize cranks, and I am looking to get them replaced. I am not sure what the size is. Will a 175mm crank fit with the E-Type front derailleur? Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

[mtbbrian]

I have a 99 Stump FSR-xc Pro and when I upgraded to the X Link, I got a new fork shortly afterwards.
I upgraded to a Marzocchi MX Pro w/ETA for 105mm of travel, it's a great fork.
I was never all that fond of the SID fork, maybe it was just that year, I don't know, mine was slowly dieing by that time anyway.
If you are looking to get new cranks, I'd be interested in the old ones, especially if they are still in good condition, one of mine stripped recently.
I have the bearring kit too, it is a definite improvement!
Brian
:thumbsup:

 

[magdaddy]

my 99 Stumpy was a great bike. MRP x-link and needle bearing kit makes a HUGE improvement. I put a Vanilla R set at 100mm of travel on the front, what a diff compared to the 80 mm SID I had.

I also upgraded to disc brakes, used the Big S shark fin adaptor and Avid mechanicals.

For the cranks, go XT. Relitively inexpensive and cool and tough.

 

[MajorCrashMaster]

The 99 FSRxc was a great bike!
I had a 99 Pro and a 00 SWorks, both with the MRP kits.

The rear shock you have is just fine, the link is setup for that, and length is 6.5”
You can send your old shock in for a Push service, or get a new Shock in that length.
The Push service will bring it up to spec of the new stuff, the design has change little.

Also Know that the shock mount is different:
You will need a DU bushing and alloy spacers now for the lower eyelet.
This is different then the plastic direct mount setup that you bike has now!

My bike had an 80mm Duke Race, a nice fork, a bit beefer then the SID.

Now I am a big fan of adjustable forks:
I would go with a Reba UTurn or Marz MX (105w\ETA) or Retro XC700SL (long but goes down to 90mm)

I don’t think I would go TALAS or Revelation, could be too much for the frame geometry
If you just want a set travel most 100mm work good for the frame, a bit more relaxed ride.

As for the BB, be very careful, that bike if I remember, is a funky 73mm Etype.
This is: the shell measures 73mm then add the 2.5mm Etype!

This is very hard to fit: most later Etypes are the 68mm flavor!

You have to have a Etype BB because the standard BB do not have long enough threads and you risk striping the shell!

You might be stuck with ISIS as I do not know if the outboard type will accommodate the width.

I have not checked into this fully, but as far as I know Shimano is the only maker that lists Etype for their outboard cranks.

Which means that most will only fit a 68mm Etype due to the shiming deals they come with.

RideOn!

 

[dayten]

I would like to thank you all for the great suggestions. I dropped by my LBS today and they had a disc break adapter for the 99-00 frames, so I picked it up just in case I decide later to upgrade to disc. I have been looking at the Marzocchi, Manitou R7, Fox, and the Rockshoc Reba forks as possible replacements. Now I have a bit more options knowing that I can move up to a 100mm fork. Thank you for the tip on the cranks. I might just bring it to the bike shop to see what they can fit on my bike, but that will be later down the road.

Mtbbrian - I’ll let you know when I change out my cranks.

Magdaddy - How does the Avid Mechanicals work? The bike shop recommended the BB7 as an inexpensive way to get setup with disc.

MajorCrashMaster – Great picture, my bike is the same color as yours, but with the red SID fork. What rear shock do you have in the picture? Although my rear shock is still in great condition, I am just exploring possible upgrades to the rear shock. With the MRP installation, the UD bushings look like it will be hard to remove, that is why I may want to update the rear shock before installing the MRP.

Again thank you for all your great suggestions.

 

[magdaddy]

The Avid's

have performed flawlessly. I built up an 06 Stumpy FSR this year, and pulled the Vanilla R, the Avid mechanicals, and the wheelset off of the old Stumpy. The Avid mechanical is a reliable, inexpensive, and great performing brake.

Don't know wnat shifting arangement you have, but...if your levers and shifters are seperate, get a set of Avid speed dial levers. I have Power Cordz cables for the brakes. They are instantaneous and strong.

Your old V brake levers are certainly compatible with the Avid's. I was just amazed when I built up the new bike, how much stronger and better modulating the brakes were with the new levers and cables.

Look for a good quality disc wheelset, as much as you can afford.

Good luck. That 99 vintage is a great xc machine, and will build up light and responsive.

 

[crisillo]

As for the BB, be very careful, that bike if I remember, is a funky 73mm Etype.
This is: the shell measures 73mm then add the 2.5mm Etype!

This is very hard to fit: most later Etypes are the 68mm flavor!

You have to have a Etype BB because the standard BB do not have long enough threads and you risk striping the shell!

You might be stuck with ISIS as I do not know if the outboard type will accommodate the width.

I have not checked into this fully, but as far as I know Shimano is the only maker that lists Etype for their outboard cranks.

Which means that most will only fit a 68mm Etype due to the shiming deals they come with.

RideOn!

Most external bearing will be able to handle the 73mm BB + Etype FD combo, you just need to replace the 2.5 spacer on the drive side with the RD... no need to go with ISIS :nono:

 

[MajorCrashMaster]

Dayten, the rear shock on my bike is a SIDxc DualAir.
When I was racing I liked the way the SID used the negative pressure as a breakaway threshold.
This is also why I went with the Duke Race, it had Dual Air and Pure dampeing
It was the early ProPedal, work well just was a pain dialing it in.
Also the SID flange would not allow the use of the lower MRP mounting position
No biggie as that is the short travel setup that I never used again.

Personally I would stick with Fox now that ProPedal is around
Though I have heard decent things about the new RS MC line of shocks.
I have to say the Motion Control Reba and Revelation are great!

As for the DU bushing, you will need to order one from Fox (unless the MRP comes with)
They are like $5 shipped and will need to be pressed into the eyelet.
Just look at the upper eyelet and compare it to the lower and you will see what is missing.
I press mine in and out with a vice or C-clamp, not really very hard to do.

Though I am not sure about your install as I didn’t get the MRP from the factory
I made a custom setup for the SID using standard style alloy spacer and busing setup
It could be that there is a different mounting style from the MRP factory.

Avid BB7 are the best mechanical Disc’s out there, they are a bit cheaper then Hydro
I personally do not like mechanical disc tho, hydro are smother and feel nicer on long DH
However, if you have the Shimano STI shift/brake levers then BB7 work great
Sometimes is it all about feel, I know some people who prefer the BB7’s
They are a bit less complicated, but you will have to adjust the pads from time to time.

Crisillo, don’t be waving the finger at me!
I did say that I was not totally sure about the fitment
However, most outboard setups I have run across will fit 68 with the spacers and 73 without.
This means that they will fit a 68 Etype without one 2.5 spacer on the drive side
I have not seen one with three total spacers to fit a total of 75.5mm which is what 73 Etypes would require.
Only Shimano lists an Etype separate from the standard, check out the websites.

73mm Etype was very rare, only found on that year FSRxc (00 was 68) and some DH bikes w/tensioners.
It is even difficult to get an ISIS in this size; there are only two flavors I could find.

With my Stylo cranks the shaft only sticks out a little on my 73mm BB shell
I cannot imagine putting them on my old FSRxc, I would be scared of them shearing
The inner shell would also not fit properly allowing dirt and water to get to the back of the bearings

RideOn!

 

[crisillo]

Crisillo, don't be waving the finger at me!
I did say that I was not totally sure about the fitment
However, most outboard setups I have run across will fit 68 with the spacers and 73 without.
This means that they will fit a 68 Etype without one 2.5 spacer on the drive side
I have not seen one with three total spacers to fit a total of 75.5mm which is what 73 Etypes would require.
Only Shimano lists an Etype separate from the standard, check out the websites.

73mm Etype was very rare, only found on that year FSRxc (00 was 68) and some DH bikes w/tensioners.
It is even difficult to get an ISIS in this size; there are only two flavors I could find.

RideOn!

I wasn't waiving fingers..maybe raising one.. my thumb.. :thumbsup:

73mm BB are rare in Spec bikes... but lots of brands use them as standard size like Yeti, Turner and Ventana for example, but as you say.. on 68mm BBs the external cranks use 3 2.5mm spacers and 73mm BBs use only one on the drive side.. and for the Etype FD to be installed you just replace one drive side 2.5mm spacer...

It's all good!

 

[MajorCrashMaster]

It is all good Crisillo, I just like to have some fun and get my head strait.

You could very well be correct.
What brand comes with three spacers?

My Stylo GPX's did not, only two and that is what is shown in the setup manual, they are 06's.
I do know that it is a special order for Etype with Shimano, the setup has to have a E in order number.

Oh, Just so you know all Ground Control FSR's pre-00 were 73mm
It was just the 99 FSRxc that was 73mm EType, this is the rare bird I was speaking about.
Spec went away from this setup in 00 and all ETypes from them were 68mm

Also I would worry about the length of the threads on the drive side, they were quite narrow on my GPX's
And like I said there is very little shaft left (3/4" or so) with the 73mm BB on my 99 FSR Elite.

I also know that when ordering for ISIS there were only two a FSA and TruVativ for this setup
There were in the order manual seperatly, designated 73/73E, Not the standard 68/73,
There was also the 68/68E/73, which has longer threads, some are just 68/73 and fit the 68 Etype fine

In the end it could be just the stuff I have seen and dealt with.

RideOn!

 

[crisillo]

It is all good Crisillo, I just like to have some fun and get my head strait.

You could very well be correct.
What brand comes with three spacers?

My Stylo GPX's did not, only two and that is what is shown in the setup manual, they are 06's.
I do know that it is a special order for Etype with Shimano, the setup has to have a E in order number.

Oh, Just so you know all Ground Control FSR's pre-00 were 73mm
It was just the 99 FSRxc that was 73mm EType, this is the rare bird I was speaking about.
Spec went away from this setup in 00 and all ETypes from them were 68mm

Also I would worry about the length of the threads on the drive side, they were quite narrow on my GPX's
And like I said there is very little shaft left (3/4" or so) with the 73mm BB on my 99 FSR Elite.

I also know that when ordering for ISIS there were only two a FSA and TruVativ for this setup
There were in the order manual seperatly, designated 73/73E, Not the standard 68/73,
There was also the 68/68E/73, which has longer threads, some are just 68/73 and fit the 68 Etype fine

In the end it could be just the stuff I have seen and dealt with.

RideOn!

I know for certain that Shimano and Race Face come with 3 spacers for 68mm, I have a strong feeling that FSA does too, but I had no idea about Truvativ. On the Shimano and Raceface BB cups I have owned there seems to be enough thread to be safe, so it's not an issue there

 

[MajorCrashMaster]

Cool, well it is nice to know these things. Thanks for the info!
I have not used FSA or the RF, but I was sure that my buddies XT set didn't have the extra spacer
I guess that I didn't look close enough,

Maybe the new TruVativ's do, but mine I am positive they will not fit 73 Etype.
This could explain why the chainline on Shimano and RF are 50 or 51, And my GPX are 49

So there you go dayten it looks like it might be easy to get some cranks!

RideOn!

 

[dayten]

Thanks for the great information. I really appreciate all the knowledge the you have shared. I need to learn more about the cranks and the different type of BB. I am looking at FSA, Race Face, and Shimano cranks. Again, thank you all for the great suggestions and valuable insight to my questions.

I know that I will spend more then the $800 I bought the bike for in 2000, and my friends think i am crazy to upgrade such an old bike. I know that I would be better off getting a new bike, but i like vintage. It's almost like "Overhaulin" for mountain bikes.

Thanks Again.

 

[epictrailrider.com]

I know that I will spend more then the $800 I bought the bike for in 2000, and my friends think i am crazy to upgrade such an old bike. I know that I would be better off getting a new bike, but i like vintage.

As the owner of a 1999 Stumpjumper xc comp I understand what you say! I was looking at getting a new rear triangle of a newer model rockhopper to get the disk brake mounts. There great bikes.

 

[magdaddy]

my reasons for a new build

I had my 99 Stumpy FSR Pro since new. It was a frame up custom build. I put the MRP x-link and needle bearing drop out kit in it around 2000 I think. I didn't put the disc brakes on it till late 2003. I went thru three different front forks, a couple of wheelsets, and lots of drivetrain parts.

The final season, with the Avid mechanicals, 05 Vanilla R, sweet S works-Hugi wheelset, King, full Xt, etc..the bike was a very fast and competent, and just under 27 lbs. The problem was , I had just too much play in the swingarm. These older FSR chassis do inherantly have lateral flex in the rear swingarm anyway.

I had cleaned and replaced the shock bushings/reducers every year, as well as cleaning and greasing the bearings in the drop outs multiple times a season. The races for the bearings in the swingarm just wore themselves a little, thats all.

This bike had been ridden hard for 7 seasons, and that was enough. Considering the increasingly aggressive nature of riding the bike was enduring, it was time for a new chassis. Mtb frames take abuses far and above what a road bike takes. My 99 Specialized Allez Pro road bike, has probably over 10K miles to date on it. It rides and appears almost new. I have no concerns about frame fatigue when blasting almost 60mph down some of steepest grades.

My old FSR Pro will be a great bike for a younger/lighter rider. It's still hanging in the garage, I never got around to selling it this year. It's still got the x-link, king headset, full 98 XT 8 speed build, an 00 SID xc, a Pushed 03 Float R,titec bar, and lots of Ritchey components. It has an old Mavic/XT wheelset on it now. Even with the boat anchor Velociraptor tires on it, it still wieghts under 27 lbs.

The moral to this story is...the older FSR chassis are very much upgrade worthy. They will build up light and fast. I ride more agressive terrain with my 06 than I ever did with the 99. But as a pure xc machine, the older vintage Stumpy's are very sweet indeed. It would be very easy to build a 4" travel xc race machine out of one, and have it squarely in the almost sub 25lb range.

 

[S-Works]

Shark Fin no longer available from Spec

my 99 Stumpy was a great bike. MRP x-link and needle bearing kit makes a HUGE improvement. I put a Vanilla R set at 100mm of travel on the front, what a diff compared to the 80 mm SID I had.

I also upgraded to disc brakes, used the Big S shark fin adaptor and Avid mechanicals.

For the cranks, go XT. Relitively inexpensive and cool and tough.

But there will be one on Ebay in a few days

 

[dayten]

Well just waiting on new XT shifters in black, Avid brake levers, and Race Face Carbon Fiber handle bar. Maybe getting a Race Face Next LP crank from a riding buddy. Still doing the reseach on the fork, but narrowed it down to the adjustable Rockshoc, and Marzocchi. I just dont have the budjet for the Fox forks. Still thinking about converting to disc brakes. I thought about going with mechanicals, but i test rode an 07 FSR XC and man those Hydro brakes are super smooth. I also test rode a friends bike that had custom build wheelset with Chris King hubs. It just felt that I was able to produce more power with every stroke effortlessly. He said that the Kings has no play at all. I know with my stock components on my bike ( stout wheelset, and specialized cranks/BB ) that there is a lot of play before anything engages.

Well, thanks again for all your suggestions and comments.

 

[S-Works]

Well just waiting on new XT shifters in black, Avid brake levers, and Race Face Carbon Fiber handle bar. Maybe getting a Race Face Next LP crank from a riding buddy. Still doing the reseach on the fork, but narrowed it down to the adjustable Rockshoc, and Marzocchi. I just dont have the budjet for the Fox forks. Still thinking about converting to disc brakes. I thought about going with mechanicals, but i test rode an 07 FSR XC and man those Hydro brakes are super smooth. I also test rode a friends bike that had custom build wheelset with Chris King hubs. It just felt that I was able to produce more power with every stroke effortlessly. He said that the Kings has no play at all. I know with my stock components on my bike ( stout wheelset, and specialized cranks/BB ) that there is a lot of play before anything engages.

Well, thanks again for all your suggestions and comments.

You may also want to consider Hope hubs. They have 72 pt engagement, pretty reliable, and cheaper than King.

Call Larry at mtnhigh dot com. He builds very good wheels and can give you some good advice.

 

[dayten]

S-Works - Thanks for the information on the website.

After doing more research and talking with friends, I am looking more into the Hope and DT hubs if I do a custom build. If my budget doesn't allow for a custom built wheelset, I might just go with a Mavic wheelset.

Thanks for the info.

 

[S-Works]

S-Works - Thanks for the information on the website.

After doing more research and talking with friends, I am looking more into the Hope and DT hubs if I do a custom build. If my budget doesn't allow for a custom built wheelset, I might just go with a Mavic wheelset.

Thanks for the info.

Well, I've got both those hubs. (Hope Pro II and Hugi 240's) The DT's are very easy to service yourself. You can remove freehub and clean and relube without tools. The Hope is too new, I haven't had to service it yet, but I've been very happy with the performance of both. Can't go wrong with either.

Good Luck.