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Hi guys
Im a nubie and just purchased a 2011 Trek 6000 since my 2010 model was stolen. Im an avid rider hitting trails and jumps. I'm interested in upgrades but have no idea where to start and which upgrades are beneficial. Please help! Thanks guys!
 

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Just Ride !
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I wouldnt touch a thing , get it out on the trails ,have a blast and see how your ride performs , if fine dont waste the money ! Until **** breaks..!
 

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I had a 2010 and the first thing i changed was the drivetrain for easier pedaling and climbing and then the wheelset.

from stock to xt cranks and cogs. then american classic wheelset with racing ralph tires.
 

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Did you ride it? The bike is a low spec bike and if you are thinking of upgrading parts the best bet is take it back and get the upgraded model. You will save so so so much money in the long run. The fork is crap the wheels and hubs are crap the qears are crap ext.

Sorry I was looking at the wrong bike its not so bad if you are thinking of upgrading take it back and get the upgraded bike the parts are so much better
 

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Fat-tired Roadie
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The best prices you'll ever get on parts are when they come on a complete bike. Unless you're directly sponsored by SRAM or Shimano.

There are a few parts that really effect the riding experience and are quite personal, though. I think that on any bike worth owning, it's worth having a saddle you like, pedals you like, and whatever stem it takes to put the grips in the right spot for you.

Next, good tires for your local trails will give you some pretty great bang for the buck.

After that, it's diminishing returns. Just replace things that break.

Not all tires are true. So if you think you damaged your rim, take the tire off and give the wheel a spin. You may find that there's nothing wrong with your wheel, just the tire. If there is something wrong with your wheel, it's probably fixable. If you've never trued a wheel yourself, run it to the shop and have them take care of it. If you have, you don't need me to tell you how to do it. :D A poster on another forum mentions using zip ties on the chain stays to use the bike itself as a truing stand.
 

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lacroix52986 said:
Yes, I rode it today for a couple hours on a trail and I swear I already bent my rim.
That may be possible I paid 1000 euro for a bike think that is about 1200 US or so. I am thinking I am getting a good bike because it has a good fork . To be honest I got a good frame and fork. Here is what I got for 1000 euros

1) Fox fork 32f100 one of the best on market.
2) Focus Blackforest frame (good frame)
3) Tektro brakes low end Hydros ( pads lasted for 2 months)
4) Deore crank not bad but the middle ring broke a tooth for no reason after 1000km
5) Alex en24 rims and deore hubs. The rims were never true and wobbled all of the time. The hubs broke 3 times and the free wheel broke once.
6)Some no name headset broke two times.
7)the chain was lowest spec shimano went bad in 2 months
8)cassette lowest spec shimano lasted 4 months.
9) SLX front and rear mec no problems but the slx mec came out of adjustment alot.

My point is on the lower priced bikes they put alot of cheap parts on them to save money so unless you really know what to look for you get screwed because in three to six months of xc riding your bike is falling apart.

I am lucky I live in Germany and we have a 2 year warranty and if the bike breaks more than 3 times (unless its wear and tear brake pads chain ext) you get a new bike. My bike broke 5 in the first 4 months. I was not jumping just riding alot and I am about 210lbs. So focus Gave me the option of a new (same) bike or upgraded wheels and headset so I took the upgrades and have not had a problem out of the wheels yet over 1200 miles and stull true.
 

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AndrwSwitch said:
The best prices you'll ever get on parts are when they come on a complete bike. Unless you're directly sponsored by SRAM or Shimano.

There are a few parts that really effect the riding experience and are quite personal, though. I think that on any bike worth owning, it's worth having a saddle you like, pedals you like, and whatever stem it takes to put the grips in the right spot for you.

Next, good tires for your local trails will give you some pretty great bang for the buck.

After that, it's diminishing returns. Just replace things that break.

Not all tires are true. So if you think you damaged your rim, take the tire off and give the wheel a spin. You may find that there's nothing wrong with your wheel, just the tire. If there is something wrong with your wheel, it's probably fixable. If you've never trued a wheel yourself, run it to the shop and have them take care of it. If you have, you don't need me to tell you how to do it. :D A poster on another forum mentions using zip ties on the chain stays to use the bike itself as a truing stand.
Most important is a good 1.stiff light wheel set 2. pedals 3. saddle
But as far as the saddle goes if you get those under shorts with the thick padding most saddles are fine.
 

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So my friend if you don't like the bike and you have only had for a few days dont go wasting time upgrading unless you like to. Take the bike back and get a better one. If that is not a option and the wheels are bent already I would consider a new wheel set and keep those for spares. I run fulcrum redmetal 5 and I have over 1200 miles of hard xc and they are like new.
 

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jpeters said:
That may be possible I paid 1000 euro for a bike think that is about 1200 US or so. I am thinking I am getting a good bike because it has a good fork . To be honest I got a good frame and fork. Here is what I got for 1000 euros

1) Fox fork 32f100 one of the best on market.
2) Focus Blackforest frame (good frame)
3) Tektro brakes low end Hydros ( pads lasted for 2 months)
4) Deore crank not bad but the middle ring broke a tooth for no reason after 1000km
5) Alex en24 rims and deore hubs. The rims were never true and wobbled all of the time. The hubs broke 3 times and the free wheel broke once.
6)Some no name headset broke two times.
7)the chain was lowest spec shimano went bad in 2 months
8)cassette lowest spec shimano lasted 4 months.
9) SLX front and rear mec no problems but the slx mec came out of adjustment alot.

My point is on the lower priced bikes they put alot of cheap parts on them to save money so unless you really know what to look for you get screwed because in three to six months of xc riding your bike is falling apart.

I am lucky I live in Germany and we have a 2 year warranty and if the bike breaks more than 3 times (unless its wear and tear brake pads chain ext) you get a new bike. My bike broke 5 in the first 4 months. I was not jumping just riding alot and I am about 210lbs. So focus Gave me the option of a new (same) bike or upgraded wheels and headset so I took the upgrades and have not had a problem out of the wheels yet over 1200 miles and stull true.
If you did this much damage to your bike that that short a time, there's something wrong. My guess is shifting under a lot of load with a dirty/unlubed drivetrain. That would explain 4, 7, 8 and 9 on your list. There's also no reason that the headset should break.
 

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I don't understand the headset it would not get tight. I keep the bike clean and lubed I am just a big guy and cheap parts don't cut it. I never shift under load as I read this was bad and it sounds bad lol. I would clean and lube the bike after every ride I am a very handy person. The set up I have now is solid no problems. I run slx gears and a high end wheel and chain. The bike never brakes now. I just had to change some things first. I don't even run the same frame now but still here are some pics I keep it clean
Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Tire Wheel Bicycle wheel rim


Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle part Bicycle frame Spoke


Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel rim Mode of transport Bicycle part Spoke
 

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Fat-tired Roadie
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jpeters said:
But as far as the saddle goes if you get those under shorts with the thick padding most saddles are fine.
How long is your "long" ride?

I think a fair number of mountain bikers don't really appreciate the importance of a saddle that fits right and a good stem size because they're going on shortish rides. Padded shorts or not, on a multi-hour ride, the saddle itself needs to be right too, and having the grips in the wrong spot will cause back, hand, wrist, elbow, shoulder or neck pain. (Or all of them. :p ) Pushing yourself will always hurt, but some kinds of pain are really not necessary.
 
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