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Upgrade crankset on old Hahanna

3324 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by top_ring, Jun 25, 2006

CWC

Discussion Starter · Jun 25, 2006

Hi there,

I still ride an old Kona Hahanna; i bought it in 2001 and I think it is a Year 2000 model. It has a steel frame, rigid fork and I upgraded a bunch of stuff to LX-level components.

Now the crankset is making grinding noises so I want to replace cranks + bottom bracket. Question is what size is the old bottom bracket??? I see 68 or 73 mm size and 113 or 118 mm size. How can I measure which one I need?

Second question is do I need to let the LBS face the bottom bracket area if I want to install some new LX crankset?

Any input greatly appreciated

Chee-Wai

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245044

· #2 · Jun 25, 2006

The old BB should have the size on it. Most likely it's a 68mm. I looked on Kona's website, but the tech stuff doesn't go back that far. If you're considering a new style crankset, you'll have to face the BB per installation instructions.

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CWC

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 25, 2006

Thanks for your reply! I am not sure whether the old BB will have rhe size printed on it. It is rather old and I am not even sure what brand / model the cranks / BB are b/c the markings have been scratched off due to age and wear.

I did look at the Kona site too and they did not have the info available.

So is my best bet to disassemble the BB and take some measurements with calipers? I'd rather know beforehand so I can order a new set and still continue riding my bike.

Any input appreciated!

Chee-Wai

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George2

· #4 · Jun 25, 2006

It's not that hard. Whether your BB is 68 or 73 mm depends on the frame, so all you have to do is measure the BB-shell width.
Whether you'll need 113 or 118 mm depends on the crankset, it will be in the crankset manual or you can find it on the internet. What kind of crankset are you getting? SQ, Octalink or the new Hollowtech II? In case of the latter, the BB is integrated (but yes, you'll need to have the frame faced).
You can also decide to keep the cranks and get new rings and BB. In this case you can just measure the old axle width (if indeed you can no longer reed the print on the BB)

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top_ring

· #5 · Jun 25, 2006

You won't need to face your BB shell unless you're using a BB that has the cups that rest against the outside shell of your frame, such as Actiontec. Shimano BB's screw inside the shell. I'm assuming you'll be using a square taper... are you? Remove the BB and measure the spindle to get your length. It's prob a 68mm shell.

Whatever you chose to replace your cranks with you'll have to be sure the crank arm offset is close to what you have now, otherwise you'll be needing a different spindle length BB. If you're not familiar with replacing cranks take it to your LBS for advice. The correct size BB is important because of chain line, shifting, and general perforance of your drive train.

Do you want used cranks? Get a pair of Race Face used on ebay. The Turbines often come available a couple times a week. These cranks are super durable, light, and stiff as all get out... great performers. Your original sized BB may just bolt right up.

If you're doing this yourself, buy the cranks first and bolt it up to your existing BB to check clearance and chain line, then decide what size BB you need.

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George2

· #6 · Jun 25, 2006 (Edited)

Shimano's Hollowtech II (at least I think that's what they call 'em) uses outboard bearings, facing is advised/required with these and similar crank/bb combo's (from the likes of Race face, Truvativ, FSA etc.). Facing is not needed for Isis, Octalink or Square taper BB's. This is relevant because the TS indicated he wants to change both crank and bb. He mentioned LX, but didn't say square, octalink or hollowtech II, if 'new' means the last model LX, he'll need facing IMO.

I do agree on the turbines, I have them as well and they are great, I'd also advice on sticking with SQ. It's old fashioned but IMO still the best and most reliable option (I am on Isis and regretting it...)

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top_ring

· #7 · Jun 25, 2006

Because of the year he mentioned (2000) I based my comments on square taper cranks/BB's. And because I agree with you... square is the way to go.

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