[sweet]

I have an nice older GT Zaskar frame that I am working on as a spare bike. The bike uses U-brakes in the rear. The upgraded front shock has V-brake mounts. The rear U-brake mounts are threaded into the frame. Is there any after-market adapter to switch from U to V-brakes?

If I stick with one V brake and one U brake it should work alright if I set my levers accordingly, correct? I have some dia-compe V-brake levers that have a High/low position switch.

thanks
sweet

 

[Sparticus]

I think you're stuck

Is there any after-market adapter to switch from U to V-brakes?

I don't think there is a U-to-V adapter. Obviously the pivots are in different places for each type of brake. Seems like Odyssey used to offer an adapter like that, but that was many moons ago (like the early 90s or so).

If you've got brake levers that work with both types of brakes, you're golden. Run 'em both. U-brakes rock!

--Sparty

 

[tube_ee]

I have an nice older GT Zaskar frame that I am working on as a spare bike. The bike uses U-brakes in the rear. The upgraded front shock has V-brake mounts. The rear U-brake mounts are threaded into the frame. Is there any after-market adapter to switch from U to V-brakes?

If I stick with one V brake and one U brake it should work alright if I set my levers accordingly, correct? I have some dia-compe V-brake levers that have a High/low position switch.

thanks
sweet

You are stuck with the U-Brake. The bosses are attached in a different spot than a cantilever boss. But this isn't a bad thing, IMHO.

U-Brakes offer tremendous power, better fender clearance than v-brakes, and easier setup than cantilevers. They went away because they were heavy, and because stupid bike designers put them on the chainstays, where they packed up with dirt. (Duh!!)

I run a Campagnolo canti up front and a Derore XT II U-brake in back on my tandem. I have complete confidence in my brakes, even with a 500 pound bike.

Levers are going to be a "try it an see" thing. I'm not quite sure where u-brakes fall on the mechanical advantage scale, but since they are centerpulls, you might be able to tune them be playing with straddle cable length,

--Shannon

 

[uphiller]

yes, putting brakes on the chainstays was dumb in one way, but it did increase braking power noticeably. how? well, the chainstay is far, far stiffer than the seatstay, especially so close to the bb shell with all that weld contact area between the bb shell and the stays. this also allowed the seatstays, which no longer were dealing with braking stress, to be thinner and lighter. yes, mud is a problem, though.
u-brakes run normal canti levers. run them with shimano slr-plus levers, good pads and a booster, and you will have a remarkably powerful setup with loads of rim clearance. they're really way better than what you hear about them.
tim

 

[CraigH]

There is an adapter available, I looked in to one a few years ago. It is made for BMX bikes as some of them run V-brakes and some run U-brakes.

 

[CraigH]

One other option is that you can install Magura hydraulic rim brakes with a small amount of work on the brakets.

This is my beginner trials bike that has a GT Karakaroum (sp?) frame and a U-brake mount.

For brake booster I used the one from the Shimano U-brake. The stock Magura brake booster wouldn't fit due to interference with the seat tube.

I rode this bike to work today as a guy on NSMB wanted to see how to do the same thing with his U-brake equipped frame.

 

[CraigH]

Broken pic links fixed.

(Installing Magura hydraulic rim brakes on U-brake posts came up on the vintage board today.)