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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about converting my newly-delivered, 05 Dirt Demo-doin' L coiled Pack to a two chainring set-up.

Can I poll who uses what set up, please? I have the FSA cranks that feature on Turner's demo gear, but don't ask my what the PCD is. Once it all went away from 110/74, that was me done...

Would ideally run a 38 or 40 big 'un and a 22 or 24 littlie.

Any advice greatly appreciated.
 

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I'll bet it's too big of a jump for the chain.. I'm running a 36t Vuelta with a 22t Shimano and it works well. It's just about enough for fast trailriding, I rarely wish for a bigger gear.

You've got the right idea though, limiting yourself to a 32t aint the way to go.
 

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t66 said:
You've got the right idea though, limiting yourself to a 32t aint the way to go.
I dunno, been running a 32 and a 22 for the last 2 years, 18months on the spot and now 6 months on the Pack. I can honestly say that I have never out pedaled the bike, even on a fireroad decent. If you get you weight distribution and braking to a tee, you never need to pedal on most downhills (excluding straight fire roads) plus chain tension might be insufficient on the rough stuff with use of the 11/12 tooth rear cog.
I would take clearence into account too, with the bash ring I like to keep as much clearence as possible, I have a friend with a 40 up front and this hits much of the technical stuff we do. Possibly adjust the rear cassette before changing the front IMHO.
 

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Dava said:
I dunno, been running a 32 and a 22 for the last 2 years, 18months on the spot and now 6 months on the Pack. I can honestly say that I have never out pedaled the bike, even on a fireroad decent. If you get you weight distribution and braking to a tee, you never need to pedal on most downhills (excluding straight fire roads) plus chain tension might be insufficient on the rough stuff with use of the 11/12 tooth rear cog.
I would take clearence into account too, with the bash ring I like to keep as much clearence as possible, I have a friend with a 40 up front and this hits much of the technical stuff we do. Possibly adjust the rear cassette before changing the front IMHO.
hmmmm??? I guess accellerating out of the turns isn't really nesessary either :rolleyes: Then again if we just remove brakes all together :confused:

Sorry dude...you sound a little absurd. I don't run a computer but I'm guessing after about 28 mph, you've got no pedal left to accelerate with a 32/11 combo. My #'s aren't scientific mind you, but I run out of pedal at around 35 and it can sometimes be frustrating even though I'm quite a weight distn, braking and aerodynamic aficionado :rolleyes:

There is singItrack here in N.GA where I still find myself running out of pedal with the 36.
 

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t66 said:
hmmmm??? I guess accellerating out of the turns isn't really nesessary either :rolleyes: Then again if we just remove brakes all together :confused:

Sorry dude...you sound a little absurd. I don't run a computer but I'm guessing after about 28 mph, you've got no pedal left to accelerate with a 32/11 combo. My #'s aren't scientific mind you, but I run out of pedal at around 35 and it can sometimes be frustrating even though I'm quite a weight distn, braking and aerodynamic aficionado :rolleyes:

There is singItrack here in N.GA where I still find myself running out of pedal with the 36.
That'll be me then 'absurd'!
I'm in awe of the fact you can out pedal a 36 at 35mph, going 28mph off road, fast enough for me 'dude' I'm not going to entertain who is fastest nor who has the biggest bicep.

My point with regards to weight distribution and braking is a valid point, many believe that masses of pedal grunt is the way down a hill, with varicous vein popping gear pushing out of the corners to get that speed back up again, keep the speed and fluidity and the pedals need not be pushed so hard, EVEN on tight switchbacks taking the apex can almost eliminate the need to really pump after the corner.

Maybe we need to asses the riding to be done and the conditions before suggesting the right 'ring' for the job. For me, technical trails, doubles and step downs, granite boulders and slow speed hucks, the 32 is a winner every time!
 

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Some people just want to accelerate to a higher velocity than a 32t will allow. I'm thinking this is why the thread was started.

I dont' think I'd try to shift bigger than 14 teeth. My 22-36 is just catching the ramps on the Vuelta ring. I don't think I'd like a 38 for all around trailriding. I don't want to drop into granny unless I'm doing a steep climb.

If you go 38 be prepared to run a 24 granny.
 

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Agree with t66 on the tooth difference

I have personally never gone with more than a 12 tooth difference, but have heard of people getting away with 14 before. Any more than that and I think you will not be able to get the shifts adjusted properly. I cant say for sure because I have not tried it, just going with what other (more knowledgeable) people have told me. So like 66 said eith you will have to drop down a few teeth on that big ring or run a higher granny.
 

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I ran 22/36 which was fine for everything I do (even on my XCE), but went back to 3 rings as the chain kept overshifting when going into granny ring 7 dropping off completely. How did you avoid this, t66? Putting the front mech as low as you could (I didn't adjust mine)?
 

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I run a 22/32. I occassionally think about running a 34 to keep my chain a little bit closer to the center of the cassette, but then I get tired on the trails and occassionally want that easier setup. I also use my 22 about 1% of the time and am thinking about completely removing it. There's a saying, if you're in the granny gear, it's faster to just get off and hike a bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The actual retaining device...

And what devices are you two-ring blokes using? Are you using any sort of retaining rig, or simply chucking the big ring in the spares bin and bolting up a bashie?
 

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yet another industry standard

Robbo said:
Thinking about converting my newly-delivered, 05 Dirt Demo-doin' L coiled Pack to a two chainring set-up.

Would ideally run a 38 or 40 big 'un and a 22 or 24 littlie.
a 12 tooth jump is generally thought of as the biggest one can use and still expect any continued degree of as designed performance. over shoot that and all kinds of nastyness could follow. mostly this has to do with the f der's inability to follow the radius of the 2, such as a 22 and a 36 together as some propose. if ya look close you will see most f der's are speced for a compact 22/32/44, the 44 being the max reccomended teeth and the now less common 24/34/46 with the 46 being the min reccomended teeth. the others might work ok, but id be hard pressed to believe they would work well. and yeah, ive tryed it myself. good luck with it and i hope it goes the way ya want.
 

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t66 said:
E-13 DRS and haven't dropped a chain since.
Just a Race Face bash guard at the mo, but since changing to a CK rear hub (a little sticky on back pedal), I have lost the chain once or twice, so UGI is forcing the purchase of a E-13 DRS as above-they look nice too :D
 
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