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Turner 5 Spot Owners?

1055 Views 14 Replies 7 Participants Last post by S-Works, Jul 6, 2006

Steve5S

Discussion Starter · Jul 5, 2006

Can anyone advise of the length of the rear gear cable outer on a medium frame 5 Spot. The sections in question are;

1, Where it goes from the top tube cable stop, through the gusset to the cable stop on the rear swing arm.

2, The loop from the derailleur (XT) to the cable stop on the rear swing arm

Thanks :thumbsup:

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

S-Works

· #2 · Jul 5, 2006

Steve5S said:
Can anyone advise of the length of the rear gear cable outer on a medium frame 5 Spot. The sections in question are;

1, Where it goes from the top tube cable stop, through the gusset to the cable stop on the rear swing arm.

2, The loop from the derailleur (XT) to the cable stop on the rear swing arm

Thanks :thumbsup:

Start checking out pics of various setup from the database

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=27489

You should be able to find your answers.

Also, check out the Cable Routing button at Turnerbikes dot come

cactuscorn

· #3 · Jul 5, 2006

definitive answers

not that s works didnt have a good idea but ya may end up seein mistakes and answers both. this is my flux before i added a rollamajig which i highly reccomend for shimano ders.

youll see a piece of housing accross the rockers thats smooth, unkinked or over stretched. note my routing is different than that reccomended by turner. some protective tape such as a thick and elastic frame, ski or helicopter variety works well. otherwise youll cut through the housing and/or rub the crap out of the frame.

youll also see another piece to the rear der thats also without kinks or excess bends. it looks long but its in fact the perfect length to rid the system of drag. the easy way to gauge length is to insert the housing with a ferrulle into the der then mock it up to the lower shock stay stop payin close attention to when the housing is a perfect 0 deg in the der stop. cut at the shock stay stop when this is achived.

i also highly reccomend dry cables and always use alloy ferruells when using 4mm housing. plastic ones bend, kink and crack creating drag. drag is bad. dont forget to use a good quality housing cutter and carefuly poke the housing open with a scratch awl after cutting.

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big_olly

· #4 · Jul 5, 2006

Cactus, pardon my ignorance...when you say "i also highly reccomend dry cables" do you mean don't grease the shifter cables? I usually apply a small amount of grease to the cable before inserting (I mean a really small amount, just enough to say there's grease on it).

Bad idea? I'm about to replace some housing so I'm curious.....

cactuscorn

· #5 · Jul 5, 2006

in all but the wettest of conditions or those who feel a need to use older cables and housing, i say no lube. ive tried both in super dry deserts and wet/cold forests and my take on this is the newer stuff is so good its inner liner and smoother stainless strands dont need it. addin lube or grease attracts dirt and dirt kills performance. the id/od id just too tight for any addition of masses of outside particals or heavy fluids. many will dissagree.

big_olly

· #6 · Jul 5, 2006

Hmmm. Makes sense. I think it's worth a shot. Thanks!

Must....break....old....habit.....

cactuscorn

· #7 · Jul 5, 2006

anytime.

S-Works

· #8 · Jul 5, 2006

cactuscorn said:
not that s works didnt have a good idea but ya may end up seein mistakes and answers both. this is my flux before i added a rollamajig which i highly reccomend for shimano ders.

youll see a piece of housing accross the rockers thats smooth, unkinked or over stretched. note my routing is different than that reccomended by turner. some protective tape such as a thick and elastic frame, ski or helicopter variety works well. otherwise youll cut through the housing and/or rub the crap out of the frame.

youll also see another piece to the rear der thats also without kinks or excess bends. it looks long but its in fact the perfect length to rid the system of drag. the easy way to gauge length is to insert the housing with a ferrulle into the der then mock it up to the lower shock stay stop payin close attention to when the housing is a perfect 0 deg in the der stop. cut at the shock stay stop when this is achived.

i also highly reccomend dry cables and always use alloy ferruells when using 4mm housing. plastic ones bend, kink and crack creating drag. drag is bad. dont forget to use a good quality housing cutter and carefuly poke the housing open with a scratch awl after cutting.

You could have used those tires on Indian

cactuscorn

· #9 · Jul 5, 2006

they were in the car. drag huh?

Double H

· #10 · Jul 6, 2006

Dry Cables or dry cables?

big_olly said:
...when you say "i also highly reccomend dry cables" do you mean don't grease the shifter cables? I usually apply a small amount of grease to the cable before inserting (I mean a really small amount, just enough to say there's grease on it)...

I'm sleep deprived right now, so I need clarification on CC's comment.

CC - are you talkin' dry cables as in no lube, or Dry Cables as in the ones found at: http://drycables.com/index.html ?

I'm running Dry Cables on my Spot and have been very impressed with how the smooth the shifting is, even after getting coated with powder-like dust on every ride during this time of year.

HH

endurowanker

· #11 · Jul 6, 2006

cactuscorn said:
in all but the wettest of conditions or those who feel a need to use older cables and housing, i say no lube. ive tried both in super dry deserts and wet/cold forests and my take on this is the newer stuff is so good its inner liner and smoother stainless strands dont need it. addin lube or grease attracts dirt and dirt kills performance. the id/od id just too tight for any addition of masses of outside particals or heavy fluids. many will dissagree.

i generally agree with the dry assessment. there's a few areas of my stumpjumper (under the bottom bracket namely) that tend to really get wet though. i usually run some finish line cross country on the cable, and then wipe it off with my fingers. just leave a tiny film of lube. my logic is corrosion resistance.

cactuscorn

· #12 · Jul 6, 2006

no lube. ill refrain from jokes or further comment.

if wankers talkin bout down tube routing, specially such as old stumpy h/t's without housing, this makes tons of sense. i did the same thing with my '93 and '97 stumps. the old finishline xc lube was a good choice in its day but theres better now. for wet days theres none higher than rock n roll blue with boshield and a few others right behind.

Steve5S

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jul 6, 2006

Hey guys great responce, Well I've gone with what looks right. Routed through the 'taco' and trialing a Rollamajig gizmo. Seems to need less force to shift but yet to test out on the tails.

Thanks All

PSI

· #14 · Jul 6, 2006

1, Where it goes from the top tube cable stop, through the gusset to the cable stop on the rear swing arm. 325 mm

2, The loop from the derailleur (XT) to the cable stop on the rear swing arm 295 mm

S-Works

· #15 · Jul 6, 2006

cactuscorn said:
no lube. ill refrain from jokes or further comment.

if wankers talkin bout down tube routing, specially such as old stumpy h/t's without housing, this makes tons of sense. i did the same thing with my '93 and '97 stumps. the old finishline xc lube was a good choice in its day but theres better now. for wet days theres none higher than rock n roll blue with boshield and a few others right behind.

No CC, he's talking about his current ride. I believe its like my 04 Stumpy, it has the RD cable running underneath the downtube, and then it makes a funny loop under the BB shell to the chainstay.

Wanker, I've run Avid flak jackets to seal the cables, and have had zero problems with it. Although that bike doesn't really get ridden much since I have a 5spot. But I borrow it out alot, and everything always works well when I get it back.

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