Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a giant brass1 with a sram x5 derailleur, should i try tuning the derailleur or would i mess it up? i have never tryed tuning a derailleur but i get the basic idea how to. can someone tell me how to do it? and also what tools do i need to remove a cr,ank? thanks:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
You know it looks easy when they describe it on Park Tool and when you see these videos, but it sure doesn't seem very easy when you are trying it yourself. I've tried to both go through the procedures step by step in excruciating detail, and I've tried to just jump in and adjust here and there. Neither has worked very well for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,061 Posts
Bike_Muchacho said:
You know it looks easy when they describe it on Park Tool and when you see these videos, but it sure doesn't seem very easy when you are trying it yourself. I've tried to both go through the procedures step by step in excruciating detail, and I've tried to just jump in and adjust here and there. Neither has worked very well for me.
When it becomes difficult or even impossible to adjust the derailleur so that it shifts reliably and crisply, that means that something else is wrong. The derailleur hanger may be bent, the cable may be frayed, or, more likely, the cable housing is gummed up and needs to be replaced. On my first mtb, I recall spending hours taking the derailleur apart, cleaning it, reassembling it on the bike, and then adjusting it over and over again, only to wind up with the same crappy shifting behavior as when I started. It was very frustrating.

I ride in dry and dusty conditions and fine dust works itself into every nook and cranny, including into the derailleur housing. It turned out that simply replacing the housing was sufficient for being able to adjust the derailleur so that the bike would shift well again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
ill just post it off the top of my head since it may be easier to follow than the vids

1) shift your derailleur onto the cog with which it aligns (either biggest cog or smallest cog). if you don't know post up what kind of shiters/ rear der you have.

2)unbolt the derailleur cable and bach out your high and low screws almost all the way.

3) turn in the screw with which your derailleur is aligning until you here the popping sound when you pedal..(if you're derailleur is aligning with the big cog you'll use the Low screw for this. if your derailleur aligns with the little cog you'l use thw High screw. ) back the screw out while still pedaling until the popping sound stops. (that popping sound was your chain trying to jump over a gear.

4) pull cable tight and rebolt.

5) shift to the other side of the cassestte. when you go to shift to a gear you dont have does the derailleur move a little? if it does turn in the other screw (the one you havent touched yet) until it can not move when you try to shift to a non existant gear.

everything from here is a small barrel adjustment. keep in mind the derailleur moves from where it aligns from cable tension, then returns to where it aligns from spring tension.

so if:
you are moving the derailleur away from where it aligns and it doesnt go into the next gear: you need to back the barrel adjuster out.

you are moving the derailleur towards where it aligns and it doesn't go into the next gear: turn the barrel adjuster in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the help, i got it to work:D the bottom bracket sqeaks alot and i have taken it to the bike shop 3 times to get it fixed and it just comes back a few days after i get the bike back. the cra.nkarm is a duro sr suntour. should i try cleaning/greasing it my self? or just take it back to my lbs? what tools would i need to take it apart? thanks:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,061 Posts
skyliner99 said:
According to that link, you have a Shimano Octalink BB. You'll most likely need a crank puller like the Park Tool CCP-44 or the Park Tool CWP-7. (The latter tool will handle both square taper and splined cranks. Get that one if you want maximal versatility.) You'll also need a bottom bracket tool like the Park Tool BBT-22 or BBT-32.

I think it's definitely worth it to work on it yourself. Remove the cranks and BB cups and spread grease on the cup threads and BB spindle / crank arm interface.

Instructions for removing & installing the crank arms and bottom bracket are available from Park Tool too:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top