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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The DT Swiss kits aren't out yet, but even if they were, they would be DAMN expensive! Universal cycles carries the 4.1 kit for about $37...for EACH wheel! Screw that!!! $74 for a wheelset. Ridiculous!! That makes Stans a bargain at $62 a pop for both wheels. And even that is still crazy. Sure they did their research and the stuff works good, but in the end its just basically glue, a couple of rim strips, and a valve, right?

Well, I'm going to have to really think this over before I fork over my money for this. What about the homemade kits I've heard about? It mght be worth a try. Out of frustration and to save time, I might just end up buying a Stans kit, ha. I'm just venting is all. Don't mind me. Maybe I should choose a less expensive sport.

What about sealants on Specialized Adrenaline Pros? Are those tires alright/compatible with sealants?
 

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Do It Yourself
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Yes, the kits are expensive. I bought mine at the LBS and paid $40 each and I'm not even using them anymore (switch to 819 up front and taco'ed the rear). Damn expensive I know. But they work perfectly. That what counts in my book. They will seal up tight even without sealant, not so with Stan's. They also don't have an integrated valve stem like Stan's. If the valve separates from the Stan's strip, it's useless. So yeah, they are worth the extra little bit over Stan's (unless you want to use them now). The 5.1d rims look like the rims to have but at $75 a piece + $40 tubeless kit for UST, they ain't cheap. :eek:

I'm using the Special Ed Enduro 2Bliss with just a bit of Stan's goop and it seems fine. I wish there were more choices for mid sized UST tires that didn't weigh a ton. These are a fat 2.2 and weigh less than 800g. I don't know why Specialized quit making them like this.
 

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Bodhisattva
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What Homebrew said. You gotta pay if you want to play.

Plus, I don't know if the skinny Stan's strip would fit the much wider 5.1 rim.

I have another suggestion....stick with tubes. UST selection is still far from optimal and sealing conventional tires is very hit or miss with fugly consequences when things go wrong trailside.
 

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I'll also add, that with the DT tubeless kits, should you flat you can remove the valve stem trailside and pop in a tube without having to remove the entire rimstrip like Stan's. This rimstrip gives you nearly every advantage of an actual tubeless rim (except maybe the more pronouced hook bead).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well now, the whole point for me gettng new rims was to be able to go tubeless as an option. If I get the 5.1 rim, I'll have to use a conversion kit. Seems like the only one to really use would be the DT Swiss kit. But at an extra $40/wheel, thats more money than I want to spend. Ah, $40 for ONE friggin wheel for glue, some adhesive tape, and a valve. Forget it!!!!

So, it seems like I should really just get the 819s, since I can run tubes or tubeless w/o having to pay extra bucks for a conversion kit. Then I don't have to buy sealant either but still have that option of course. Plus the 819s will hold both std and UST tires on better due to the beadlip design.

I'm going with 819s.
 

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The 819's are a great rim. I've been running them this season both with UST tire (rear) and a regular tire with goop (front) and they've put up with a lot of abuse. The only real limitation that I see is if you choose to run super wide tires (say true 2.3"+) and are annoyed by the resulting unsupported squirmy sidewall.

Also, if you're into drops then I'd start to look towards a wider burlier rim like the 823 or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah, i've always had mavic on all my bikes over the last 18 years w/no problems. my last rims were 317 that lasted 3 years, a record for me w/the rocky areas i ride. i even used 2.4 DH tires on them w/o problems or noticeable squirm at Downieville.

i thought of the 823s, but i don't do drops much anymore, so 819s are fine for me.

bikerx, i like that Racer X design logo for your posts. cool. were you raised in the 70s like me wathcing Speed Racer and his brother Racer X too?
 

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myitch said:
bikerx, i like that Racer X design logo for your posts. cool. were you raised in the 70s like me wathcing Speed Racer and his brother Racer X too?
I dig Speed Racer. I always liked the fact that Racer X learned all his driving skills on crappy roads. Reminds me of my BMX days building jumps on construction lots and making jump 'parks' in the woods. Anyway, he rules.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
bikerx40 said:
I dig Speed Racer. I always liked the fact that Racer X learned all his driving skills on crappy roads. Reminds me of my BMX days building jumps on construction lots and making jump 'parks' in the woods. Anyway, he rules.
i have an early background in BMX too. RacerX was the coolest when I was growing up. he was the only one that could drive his car in conditions most others couldn't handle. and he'd show up just when his younger brother needed him most.

you must be a '70s product, yeah? 40ish? funny that many of the others on mtbr.com probably don't know who were really talking about. before their time here.
 

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I have both a set of DT 4.1d's with the DT tubeless conversion kit and a set of Mavic 819's running tubeless.

On the 4.1's I run a semi-knob tire like the Maxxis Larsen TT 2.3 laced with triple butt DT spokes to the DT 240 CL disc hub front and rear. This setup is my preferred wheel and tire set for hardpack and rock(y) conditions.

On the 819's I run either a Maxxis High Roller UST 2.35 or a Michelin UST DH 16 2.5. I have these rims laced with a straight 14 gauge DT spoke to XTR disc hubs.

I think the spoke gauge, tire sidewall construction, PSI, and TPI has a lot to do with any squirminess anyone may feel running oversize tires on a Mavic 819.

The 2.5 Michelins, being designed for going fast downhill, have a stout sidewall with 27 TPI and running them at 35 rear and 30 front they stick like they are on a rail, even when the bike is leaned over going fast.

The 2.3 High Rollers, being designed more for XC, are more flexible in the sidewall with 120 TPI, and I can fell the difference going downhill fast running the same PSI front and rear.

My experience anyway..............
 

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myitch said:
Well now, the whole point for me gettng new rims was to be able to go tubeless as an option. If I get the 5.1 rim, I'll have to use a conversion kit. Seems like the only one to really use would be the DT Swiss kit. But at an extra $40/wheel, thats more money than I want to spend. Ah, $40 for ONE friggin wheel for glue, some adhesive tape, and a valve. Forget it!!!!

So, it seems like I should really just get the 819s, since I can run tubes or tubeless w/o having to pay extra bucks for a conversion kit. Then I don't have to buy sealant either but still have that option of course. Plus the 819s will hold both std and UST tires on better due to the beadlip design.

I'm going with 819s.
You can get them for a lot less than $40/wheel ;)
Larry Mettler
http://www.mtnhighcyclery.com
 

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Anyone know if the DT 5.1 kit will work with other brand rims, like a DS28? Larry, when you have one in hand, can you pop it on a DS28 to see? I've ordered some tape and a Stan's valve to experiment with my Velocity VXC rims to see if I can run a super light set-up on my XC wheels. If it works on those, I may try the DS28s next.
 

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Homebrew said:
I'm using the Special Ed Enduro 2Bliss with just a bit of Stan's goop and it seems fine. I wish there were more choices for mid sized UST tires that didn't weigh a ton. These are a fat 2.2 and weigh less than 800g. I don't know why Specialized quit making them like this.
HB, Why not use a standard tire and Stan's with your 819s? I have 819s and I'm debating whether or not to try it myself. My riding buddy has started running WTB Mutanos and Stan's (without rim strips) on his Crossmax XLs (same rim as the 819) without issue. The weight savings is remarkable. Am I missing something :confused:
 

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I've been using 819 (hope bulb hubs) with conti vertical pro 2.3, sealed with slime. I had to clean the inside of the tire completely and spread the slime covering it. Thou they loose air gradually over three days, they have been ok in the trail. I was worried that in the event of a strong side load the bead will let air loose or worse, but just had an accident like that in rocky terrain and the tire held up perfectly. Will change the sealant later to have them evenly sealed. The rims are strong for the width in my opinion, had to true them after a few rides when new, but I guess it was the build quality (Jenson) and usually you have to do it anyway with all new builds.

Good luck!
 

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dulyebr said:
HB, Why not use a standard tire and Stan's with your 819s?...Am I missing something :confused:
I'll take reliability over weight savings. I've read too many stories of blown beads and delamination to even think about it. UST tires have the extra sidewall stiffness and bead lock to take the tubeless setup. Regular tires weren't designed for this. It might work for some but I don't think it's worth risking.
 

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Homebrew said:
I'll take reliability over weight savings. I've read too many stories of blown beads and delamination to even think about it. UST tires have the extra sidewall stiffness and bead lock to take the tubeless setup. Regular tires weren't designed for this. It might work for some but I don't think it's worth risking.
Yea, I agree, which is why I haven't done it either. It's just frustrating to see so many other riders do it, have few if any problems and save so much freakin weight.

The only tire manufacturer to really come out with an actual UST tire that requires sealant and is therefore very light is Bontrager with their Jones XR, but I've read it sucks. Geax has TNT, but again haven't heard great things about the Marathon Barro and it doesn't really save enough weight to justify using a tire with sub-par performance and durability.
 
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