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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting off, ive been riding for about a year and a half now so i wouldnt really consider myself a beginner anymore. I can perform certain repairs and that has improved greatly since i started riding.

So i purchased a lightly used 2008 Cannondale rush 6z about 2 months ago. And I've had a lot of problems with shifting. After every ride or 2 i would have to re adjust the rear derailleur as the bike would always have trouble switching between gears and when in fifth it would always switch to fourth when in a rough spot. So I finally switched the cable and broke it in (only had to re adjust it once during break in).

Edit: All drive train parts are stock, and nothing really shows wear, i've never measured chain stretch though if that could be a problem?

Anyways I've had to start adjusting again every ride or two. I'm very puzzled to a cause by it. The derailleur is a sram x-5 and so are the shifters. I just really want this bike to start working, it becomes stressful to have these problems in the middle of a good lap.

Also I find that the brakes are lacking in stopping power. It takes a very long time to stop and they don't even slow you down quickly. The pads arent worn out ot glazed. They are shimano br-m485 or something like that. Anyway to fix this issue either?

Anyone's help would be much appreciated.
 

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For the shifting you have to change the housing not just or even the cable. Often the ferrules capping each housing segment get worn.
REI has a $19 Novara/Jagwire kit with lined housing, plastic ferrules and coated stainless cable. If you run it full length you get the smoothest shifting possible. It takes a small hole through the middle stops. Changing the cable isn't enough. Use the Superglue technique for the cable cut with the correct tool. Listed in one of the comments on REI.
You should also check the derailleur hanger for left/right bend and twist. Do it by eye and adjust by hand for bend and carefully with a pliers for twist.
Novara Shift Cable Kit at REI.com
going full length with this is probably the most cost effective upgrade you can do to your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've already checked the hangar and I'm pretty sure that screw is tight, as I tightened it really well when I adjusted it last week. I'll look in to cable housing, i'm still wondering about chain stretch, how would I measure for that?
 

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Chain stretch is chain wear. 24 links = exactly 1 foot. Don't let the chain get past 1' 1/16".

With fullies, you need to make extra sure you've got enough housing length so that the rear suspension isn't causing the ghost shifting you are experiencing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Snug down the cable clamp on the rear D. I had the same problem last year after putting on new cables and housing. Took me a couple days to figure it out.

There's a recall on your brakes; the calipers leak oil. http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/help-shimano-br-m485-brakes-403405.html
I never saw that you mentioned this about the brakes. Do you think I could still get them replaced even though i'm not the original owner of the bike?

And I just went and checked them, there isn't any visible oil leak. So i'm still lost there.
 
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