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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know I could probably post this in the brake section but everyone over here in the WW section is very helpful so what the heck. I also think that 95% of us are using the R1's anyway.

Have any of you trimmed the lines yourselves? If so, is it difficult? Do they need to be bled afterwards? My Maguras I had didn't need to be bled after trimming and were extremely easy to setup.

Appreciate any help or info.
 

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It can be done without bleeding (either the brakes or yourself) if you're both careful and lucky. You need to be able to execute the hose cut cleanly and have the new barb and olive handy so you don't let the end of the cut hose drop, and you need to have the lever in the recommended orientation so it doesn't suck any air in before you get it reassembled.

BUT, you should always start with the assumption that a brake bleed will be required and then you can just be pleasantly surprised if you don't need to do it. That's the advantage of being a pessimist, life is full of pleasant surprises.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
rockyuphill said:
It can be done without bleeding (either the brakes or yourself) if you're both careful and lucky. You need to be able to execute the hose cut cleanly and have the new barb and olive handy so you don't let the end of the cut hose drop, and you need to have the lever in the recommended orientation so it doesn't suck any air in before you get it reassembled.

BUT, you should always start with the assumption that a brake bleed will be required and then you can just be pleasantly surprised if you don't need to do it. That's the advantage of being a pessimist, life is full of pleasant surprises.
I'm pretty much going to assume I'm going to need to bleed the brakes.
 

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i've the Formula bleed kit here but copped out & had it done at a nearby LBS who rightly took the mickey for me not doing it myself - but didn't charge as i had follow up wheel tuning done at the same time :)

Formula brakes are as just easy to shorten & bleed as Magura its just the barbs seemed to be slightly trickier to install, but ...top spanners @ Helen's Cycles had 2 machined halves of derlin plastic with a groove cut for mtb brake hose, he then clamped the hose holder and then easily tapped in the barb without any of the hassle or bashed finger carnage i'm used to

here's how park tools do it: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repai...aliper-brake-installation-hose-length-changes

also their guide to bleeding Avids - same process as Formula : https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-reg-juicy-caliper-brake-bleed-service

a quick bleed after trim will hopefully ensure there's no air in your brake system - best done just incase

good luck


Formula brake hose barb & olive


Jagwire Formula brake hose barb & olive
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had to loosen the banjo bolt for the hose because the position it was in interfered with installation. How tight should it be? Could fluid leak out if not tight enough. The red arrow points to the bolt I'm talking about.

Otherwise installation was simple. Now all I have to do is cut the lines(lbs here I come) and I will be done.
 

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The banjo needs to be snug enough that the hose cannot swivel, it will leak air if it isn't tight enough.

Also, a few days after you trim the hoses, go back and check the gland nut at the lever, the aluminium olive will crush and relax, you'll likely find that you can get another 1/8 turn on the gland nut. If you don't do that, it can allow air to get in at the lever.
 

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When cutting lines on any brakes you do it at the lever end which facilitates an easier bleed method. The only air that is going to get into the system is at the lever and won't move from there because the levers are higher than the caliper. Remove the bleed screw at the lever, screw in one syringe filled with fluid and pull on the syringe creating a vacuum, this will remove any air that got into the system during a hose shortening. Easy.
 
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