[atvsmurf]

any trek hardtail owners upgraded the fork on their....(4900 and lower numbered models)...bikes? i have a 3700 (22.5" frame)and would like to ditch the 63 mm rst and move into something like an 80mm....i don't want to throw the geometry off, and the rst has an axle to crown height of 17 inches(430mm), my trouble is finding the specs on new forks
if anyone has upgraded and has some opinions on which fork will work let me know...and btw it is a 3700 so i don't want to throw a lot of cash into it....after all it was only 250 new...

 

[2inthehole]

older/

any trek hardtail owners upgraded the fork on their....(4900 and lower numbered models)...bikes? i have a 3700 (22.5" frame)and would like to ditch the 63 mm rst and move into something like an 80mm....i don't want to throw the geometry off, and the rst has an axle to crown height of 17 inches(430mm), my trouble is finding the specs on new forks
if anyone has upgraded and has some opinions on which fork will work let me know...and btw it is a 3700 so i don't want to throw a lot of cash into it....after all it was only 250 new...

an older used SID with 60mm would be great, otherwise a 80mm fork would be ok, something like a judy or pilot, something cheap but good.

 

[atvsmurf]

i went with the manitou splice diva edition(sticker will be comin off) and bought the firm ride kit, got it from nashbar with a ritchie (on clearance) headset ....all for $150 shipped....
this fork was the only 80mm one i could find that had a axle to crown measurement that was close to mine...i didn't want the steering to get too slack....

 

[2inthehole]

good

i went with the manitou splice diva edition(sticker will be comin off) and bought the firm ride kit, got it from nashbar with a ritchie (on clearance) headset ....all for $150 shipped....
this fork was the only 80mm one i could find that had a axle to crown measurement that was close to mine...i didn't want the steering to get too slack....

good choice, i run a diva black myself, sicker is also off......good forks though

 

[Fuelish]

good choice, i run a diva black myself, sicker is also off......good forks though

Am still running an old Mani SX-R - stickers off as well (they kinda sorta came off partially, so I ended their "suffering") I LIKE the looks of unstickered/unbadged things - my Fuel has no stickers, no headtube "badge" (if you can call it that, was more of a three dimensional rubberized shiny sticker of sorts), my wheels are stickerless, my rear Fox is stickerless, my Mani is stickerless....nice plain dull matte black bike - just how I likes it

 

[2inthehole]

im with ya

Am still running an old Mani SX-R - stickers off as well (they kinda sorta came off partially, so I ended their "suffering") I LIKE the looks of unstickered/unbadged things - my Fuel has no stickers, no headtube "badge" (if you can call it that, was more of a three dimensional rubberized shiny sticker of sorts), my wheels are stickerless, my rear Fox is stickerless, my Mani is stickerless....nice plain dull matte black bike - just how I likes it

i like my bikes the same way, nothing on them, some are just paint, no decals or very small decals, and a few dont even have paint, just bare aluminum...low key, but it sticks out!

 

[Fuelish]

i like my bikes the same way, nothing on them, some are just paint, no decals or very small decals, and a few dont even have paint, just bare aluminum...low key, but it sticks out!

I like the idea of nekkid aluminium, but have always been too scared (and too lazy) to strip the paint off of mine - have seen other nekkid bikes, looks cool

 

[2inthehole]

perks

I like the idea of nekkid aluminium, but have always been too scared (and too lazy) to strip the paint off of mine - have seen other nekkid bikes, looks cool

i have access to a media blaster, so all i have to do is strip the frame, the only thing is you have to watch wet weather riding, because they will start to corrode if you get salt or something on it.

 

[Fuelish]

i have access to a media blaster, so all i have to do is strip the frame, the only thing is you have to watch wet weather riding, because they will start to corrode if you get salt or something on it.

Cool ...my understanding is "corrosion" on an alu frame is much less detrimental than corrosion on a steel frame (something about surface corrosion prevents further deeper corrosion on alu, as opposed to steel rotting all the way through ??? dunno for sure, as I've never had a steel frame fail due to rust, no matter how mistreated - including riding my old Schwinn stingRay into the ocean off of NJ back in the late '60's/early '70's....LOL)

 

[Undies]

Reviving an old thread...

The notion that aluminum corrosion is not detrimental is completely false. The only thing AL corrosion is less of is visible. As a matter of fact, many aluminum alloys are more anodic than common steel alloys, which in English means that aluminum is often MORE susceptible to corrosion than steel.

If you strip your aluminum frame and leave it bare it will corrode. You'll see white powdery deposits on the metal; that's the corrosion product. Aluminum corrosion will ultimately lead to stress cracking. It is not a question of "if" but "when."

Now for the real reason I opened this thread... has anyone mounted a rigid fork to a Trek 3700? I've been converting my 3700 into a "hybrid" mainly for commuting and grocery runs. I think I'd see more benefit from a lighter fork than from something with longer travel. Cheaper is better.