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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDIT: I ended up going with a Motobecane 700 HT. Just to save you a lot of reading....

I tested out the Trek today at the bigger LBS and loved it! They only had a 21" frame though, which is a bit big for me (I'm 6'0, 175 lbs). The brakes were amazing, and it is a lot lighter than what I've been used to (Wal-Mart specials). The shifting mechanisms worked flawlessly and it seemed like an awesome bike all-in-all. The smaller LBS here sells Haro and KHS. I stopped by there today and they didn't have any Flightline Threes in stock, but said they should next week. I'm going to wait to make my decision until then unless any of you can tell me the Haro isn't worth comparing to the Trek. I will use this bike mainly to commute around campus but I also want to start riding a few local trails.

Both bikes are $470

Trek 3700 Disc



Frame-Alpha White Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, bi-oval down tube w/integrated gusset, rack & fender mounts, disc compatible dropouts, replaceable derailleur hanger
Front Suspension-SR Suntour XCT w/coil spring and preload, 80mm travel
Wheels-Formula alloy DC20 front hub, Shimano alloy M475 rear hub; Bontrager 550 36-hole rims w/brushed sidewalls
Tires-Bontrager LT3, 26x2.0"
Shifters-Shimano EF51, 7 speed
Front Derailleur-Shimano Tourney
Rear Derailleur-Shimano Altus
Crank-Shimano M131, 42/34/24
Cassette-Shimano TZ31 13-34, 7 speed
Pedals-Wellgo nylon platform
Saddle-Bontrager SSR
Seat Post-Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm, 20mm offset
Handlebars-Bontrager Approved Riser, 25.4mm, 30mm rise
Stem-Bontrager Approved, 25.4mm
Headset-1-1/8" threadless, semi-integrated, semi-cartridge bearings
Brakeset-Tektro Novela mechanical disc brakes w/Shimano EF50 levers
Warranty-Lifetime on frame (except forks), 2 years on Bontrager components, 1 year on paint and decals

Haro Flightline Three



Frame-New Haro Flightline Series 6061 Alloy
Fork-SR Suntour XCT V2 100mm travel
Headset-Aheadset OS
Crankset-Shimano M131 42/32/22
Bottom Bracket-Cartridge Bearing Bottom Bracket,
Front Derailleur-Shimano Tourney
Rear Derailleur-Shimano Acera 8-Speed
Cassette/Freewheel-Shimano HG40 8-Speed 11-32t Cassette
Chain-Shimano HG50
Pedals-Nylon Body/Alloy Cage with Toe Clips
Handlebar-Pivit Steel 30mm Riser Bar 31.8mm Clamp Size
Stem-Pivit Melt Forged Alloy with Removable Face Plate; 15 Degree Rise
Grips-Haro Dual Density
Shifter-Shimano EZ Fire Plus 8-Speed Shifters
Saddle-Haro MTB Sport Saddle
Seat Post-Pivit Alloy Micro Adjust 30.9mm
Seat Post Clamp-Alloy Quick Release
Hubset-Pivit Alloy Disc 32H
Rims-Weinmann ZAC19 Doublewall
Tires-Kenda Kadre 26 x 2.10"
Brake Set-Promax Mechanical Disc Brakes
Levers-Included with Shifter
Warranty-Lifetime on frame, 1 year on Haro and Pivit components
 

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You may prefer the haro if you're going to take it on trails. The double wall rims will hold up better than single wall rims. I would also prefer the 8 sp drivetrain. The green color looks better to me, but I'm not buying it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
rlouder said:
You may prefer the haro if you're going to take it on trails. The double wall rims will hold up better than single wall rims. I would also prefer the 8 sp drivetrain. The green color looks better to me, but I'm not buying it.
AndrwSwitch said:
I wouldn't pay money for a bike with a 7-speed freewheel. That leaves the Haro
I've been leaning towards the Trek all along. Does the 8 speed drivetrain really make that big of a difference? I might hit a trail once every week or two and nothing serious to start off with.
 

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Fat-tired Roadie
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7 speed vs. 8 speed isn't that important.

7 speed freewheels suck. The axle isn't very well-supported, and even a relatively light, conservative roadie can bend it. That's why all modern multispeed bikes use a freehub instead. So, the Trek is not a modern bike. In order to fix it, you'll either need to replace the axle fairly frequently or replace the entire hub, which usually means a whole new wheel.

Single-walled rims also suck, but they're not necessarily fragile - sometimes just heavy.
 

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AndrwS knows what he's talking about. I overlooked the fact that the trek came with a free wheel. The specs show a 475 hub, so I assumed it was a cassette. That spec is obviously wrong because a quick google shows that it is a freewheel. I thought the 475 was odd because they usually cut costs everywhere they can.
 

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Master of Disaster
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The SR Suntour XCT fork on both bikes is an undamped pogo fork. Instead, I'd recommend the Suntour XCM (aluminum lowers) or XCR (magnesium lowers) hydraulic lock-out forks as a minimum starting point. Also, it's likely that the M131 triple chainrings are welded together which means no 1 x 9 option, no gearing changes up front and a damaged or worn chainring means a whole new crankset. And steel handlebars - seriously?

Instead of either of the above bikes, I'd take a hard look at a GT Avalanche Disc 1.0/2.0/3.0 at either REI or Performance Bicycle (the cheaper option of the two). You'd get a real hydraulic fork, much better drivetrain components, better wheels, nice 4-bolt alloy stem and a real alloy handlebar for similar money or less.

Trek thinks that consumers buying entry-level bikes are stupid and easily taken advantage of. Prove them wrong by buying a better bike elsewhere - probably for less money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
AndrwSwitch said:
7 speed vs. 8 speed isn't that important.

7 speed freewheels suck. The axle isn't very well-supported, and even a relatively light, conservative roadie can bend it. That's why all modern multispeed bikes use a freehub instead. So, the Trek is not a modern bike. In order to fix it, you'll either need to replace the axle fairly frequently or replace the entire hub, which usually means a whole new wheel.

Single-walled rims also suck, but they're not necessarily fragile - sometimes just heavy.
Ah, gotcha. So.....the Haro has a cassette, double-walled rims, and an Acera rear derailleur (which is better than the Trek's Altus, right?). How are the Promax brakes versus the Trek's Tektro? I know I like the Tektros from my test ride yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Clones123 said:
The SR Suntour XCT fork on both bikes is an undamped pogo fork. Instead, I'd recommend the Suntour XCM (aluminum lowers) or XCR (magnesium lowers) hydraulic lock-out forks as a minimum starting point. Also, it's likely that the M131 triple chainrings are welded together which means no 1 x 9 option, no gearing changes up front and a damaged or worn chainring means a whole new crankset. And steel handlebars - seriously?

Instead of either of the above bikes, I'd take a hard look at a GT Avalanche Disc 1.0/2.0/3.0 at either REI or Performance Bicycle (the cheaper option of the two). You'd get a real hydraulic fork, much better drivetrain components, better wheels, nice 4-bolt alloy stem and a real alloy handlebar for similar money or less.

Trek thinks that consumers buying entry-level bikes are stupid and easily taken advantage of. Prove them wrong by buying a better bike elsewhere - probably for less money.
I'm gonna research that one now. Thanks for all the help, guys! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Alright, the GT definitely looks like an awesome bike, but all the sites I've seen it on only list a small, extra small, or medium frame size. Are these no longer in production? I need a large (19.4") frame.
 

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Fat-tired Roadie
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Try to hop on a 21" too.

Acera is a much nicer component level than Altus. I raced an Alivio - the next line up - derailleur for two seasons. I only replaced it because I fell on it. Alivio and up assume you take care of your bike. Altus is built to kinda function with incredibly bad cable runs, but it doesn't keep a tune very well.

I'd say Promax and Tektro mechanical brake calipers are both pretty bad. It's too bad product managers and consumers are so set on disc brakes - Vs can outperform bad mechanical discs if you take care of them, except in deep mud. Tektros are probably a little better, but I'd still be inclined toward the Haro because it's much cheaper to replace the brakes than re-do the rear wheel and enough of the drivetrain to use a cassette and freehub.
 

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AndrwSwitch said:
Try to hop on a 21" too.

Acera is a much nicer component level than Altus. I raced an Alivio - the next line up - derailleur for two seasons. I only replaced it because I fell on it. Alivio and up assume you take care of your bike. Altus is built to kinda function with incredibly bad cable runs, but it doesn't keep a tune very well.

I'd say Promax and Tektro mechanical brake calipers are both pretty bad. It's too bad product managers and consumers are so set on disc brakes - Vs can outperform bad mechanical discs if you take care of them, except in deep mud. Tektros are probably a little better, but I'd still be inclined toward the Haro because it's much cheaper to replace the brakes than re-do the rear wheel and enough of the drivetrain to use a cassette and freehub.
Yeah but make sure you get a disk ready bike because you can upgrade the hydros for like 100 bucks when you are ready if you get v brakes it will cost a fortune to upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
jpeters said:
I would say both of those bikes are crap and you really need to consider buying online. This bike has so much better parts its not funny. 27 gears sealed bearing wheels xt dr its so much better than the other bikes.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/motobecane_700HT_xi.htm

Its just not as pretty as the other bike lol.
Wow, that's a killer deal. The only thing I don't like about that bike is it's polished aluminum. wtf? The finish would tarnish and require a LOT of upkeep, no?
 

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No. It should have a clear top coat on it. Fwiw, I've always thought the polished aluminum is the best looking color on a bike. Some people remove the paint to get that look.

The upside to that bike is that it's so much better all the way around. The difference between it and what you tested is greater than the difference between what you tested and wally bike.

The downside with internet or used bikes is that you have to learn to adjust them yourself. This is actually a benefit in my opinion. You can usually learn to adjust something quicker than it takes to drive the bike back to the dealer. Some dealers offer a basic adjustment plan for an extra cost, others offer it free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
rlouder said:
No. It should have a clear top coat on it. Fwiw, I've always thought the polished aluminum is the best looking color on a bike. Some people remove the paint to get that look.

The upside to that bike is that it's so much better all the way around. The difference between it and what you tested is greater than the difference between what you tested and wally bike.

The downside with internet or used bikes is that you have to learn to adjust them yourself. This is actually a benefit in my opinion. You can usually learn to adjust something quicker than it takes to drive the bike back to the dealer. Some dealers offer a basic adjustment plan for an extra cost, others offer it free.
Oh cool. I just saw on the one site that it simply said "polished aluminum." Glad to know it is top coated. I'm a junior in mechanical engineering and have a long history of automotive work, so I shouldn't have a problem adjusting the drivetrain. I've adjusted this cheapy Mongoose all I can stand. :madman:

After reading up on Motobecane a bit, I'm a little skeptical. Some people say their frames are outdated and not very good. Any reason why I shouldn't go with the 700 HT? The components are definitely the best of any bike I've looked into yet in this price range. I'll order it tonight unless someone here talks me out of it. :lol:
 
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