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Discussion Starter #1
What You'll Need.

  • Hammer
  • Weight or other solid object with sufficient size hole
  • 10-15mm & 7mm threaded rod or very long threaded bolts w/ Wing-Nuts or normal Nuts
  • Washers to fit the threaded rod/bolts and just smaller than the OD of the bearings
  • 9mm Socket and Screw Driver Bit socket

First up you need to totally disassemble the rear suspension of your bike, for this you'll need 2-5mm Alan Keys and 2 - 8mm Alan Keys. Remove the Release the Rear Derailer cable (it is also advisable to remove the actual Rear Derailer so it doesn't get in the way or add additional weight to the rear triangle while working with it) Rear Brake and cable, chain, rear wheel (you can do this if you flip the bike upsided down on the saddle and handlebar) and crankset and that's it for what needs to come off components wise.

Next release all the air from the rear shock, then using the 5 & 8mm alan keys remove all the suspension bolts - it is easier to use the screw driver adapter bit and a socket wrench w/ 5mm and 8mm alan keys so you don't have to remember which way tightens and which slackens the bolts and wrisk snapping them by accidentally tightening them.

Once you have the rear triangle off and the two linkages clean them up from grease etc with a rag so you can properly see what you're doing. Remove the contact washers on the inside of the bearings on both the linkages and rear suspension triangle - clean them and put somewhere safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Part two

Next is the removal of the bearings and despite what you might think it's very easy to do. First up I guess it's easiest to tackle the bigger bearings that reside in the bottom suspension linkage - Place the bottom suspension linkage on the weight - with a cloth over the hole to protect the finish on the linkage. Then using the Screw Driver adapter bit and the right length extension put the smaller end so it sits on the inside of the bearing race start to gently tap the bearing out, get accustomed to keeping the extension and bit straight while gently tapping. Once you've got the stroke down start to apply more force if the bearing hasn't started moving - You want to be careful and get the bearing out as level as possible to minimize the possibilty of ovalizing the bearing retension slot and having play when you install the new bearing and possibly replacemnt of the part.

Use the same tools to remove the bottom suspension bearings from the rear triangle - you will need a longer extension to reach through from one side of the triangle to the other so that you can reach it with the hammer to give it the loving taps :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Part three

Then follow on and remove the the bearings from the rocker arm linkages using the above technique, but replace the Screw Driver Adapter bit with the 9mm socket. Once again take your time and get accustomed to holding the bit 90 degrees to the bearing to get it out as level as possible. Increase the tapping pressure as needed till the bearing is out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Part four

Next is the upper bearings in the rear triangle, for these you will need the 7mm threaded bolt. Push the rod through the triangle, then apply the nut to the rod behind the bearing. Then once again proceed to tap the bearing out, making sure to keep the rod square to the bearing reducing the risk of ovalizing the slot.

I did not have the threaded bolt when I did it so I show the shorter bolt that I then used a solid piece of metal as an extension through the other bearing, but the threaded rod makes life much easier - I was in a rush and used what was around the house.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Part five

To press in your new Enduro Bearings you will need the two different size threaded rods - the closer you can get the size of the rod to the actual ID of the bearing the easier it will be to keep the bearing going in straight. Use a small amount of grease around the outside of the bearing and around the inside of the slot.

Put the threaded rod through the slot with a nut/wing-nut on either side of the part and slowly start to tighten them so the washers press firmly onto the bearing and rear of the linkage/rear triangle - Make sure that the bearing is sitting level/square, then as you tighten the bearing in constantly check to make sure it is going in even on all sides.

Remember that the bearings only need to be tightened until they stop, don't keep trying to tighten them once you feel them stop unless for some strange reason (not in square to the hole) then you will have to tighten them on the side that requires it and hope that the hole isn't ovalized and /or the bearing damamged - the Enduro MAX bearings are very mugh tighter and sturdier than the normal caged bearings though..

Reassemble the frame and torque the bolts back, but be careful not to over torque them as they are Hollow Bolts and will snap easily. Also remember to re-check that they are still tight after a ride or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
As Promised

Here is the tutorial that I promised I would do for removing and installing new frame bearings for the Trance/Reign. If you have any comments/questions please feel free to post them. Sorry if it isn't as in depth as it could be, but it seemed like it was needed rather now than later and I tried my best at it. I will try to update/re-word it better as time permits and suggestions come in. Also if the images are explanitary enough let me know and I will try for better ones.

Note you can use either the wong nuts or the plain nuts, but either way you'll eventually end up using a spanner to help finishing tighten the wing nuts as finger strength for all isn't always up to the torque required.

LyNx

Attached is the Torque specs for the Reign - would assume they use they same specs as the Trance, but have found no such spec sheet for the Trance to confirm.
 

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Droop
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Good Intstruction...

:thumbsup: This should be VERY helpful to those who are bound to have issues with their suspension. That is to say anyone whose bike doesn't sit in the garage!! :p
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Special thanks to Speedub.Nate

That's a huge compliment to me, Thanks :D and to be fair I just took Speeddub.nate's tool for headset pressing (the threaded rod) and used it for pressing the bearings - cause that's all the headset is and it works great. Actually I wanted to do a animated GIF of installing the bearings - like Nate's -, but alas I had already installed them so it would have meant removing and re-installing them and I didn't feel like tempting fate.
Haggis said:
You are the Speedub.Nate of the Giant board. Great job :yesnod:
What are you trying to say? You don't like my man sized, hairy hands :D LMAO
Benno said:
Get a hand model or something next time
Great info, very ingenious methods. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback guys any suggestions are more than wlecome - it's been a while since I've done stuff like this so I'm a bit rusty with the ol' writtin skills.
 

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Serious Props go out to Lynx!!

Thanks a ton for that. I'm ordering Enduro bearings in anticipation of needing them sooner than later for my '05 and really appreciate that. I also have a "speedub Nate" headset press so this makes perfect sense.

BTW, just got out on my Reign for a couple of rides last week and LOVE it so far. Pics and full reviews to follow once I get the suspension dialed and get it out for more rides. Really looking forward to riding a bike with a different suspension than my other bikes.

Cheers,
EBX
 

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Bumping up this thread to request that a moderator make this a sticky, please.

I'm also bumping this up because my non-drive side rocker/seat stay pivot is messed up in a big way. The race came out attached to the pivot bolt and there were only 3 balls left in the bearing. What happened to the others? Ground into dust? :rolleyes:

Now I'm concerned that the frame could be damaged. I don't know if I should contact Giant as see what they'll do for me, or just replace all the bearings and hope that the bearing retention slot hasn't been damaged (the bike has just started to creak). I just don't want Giant to say I damaged it when I replaced the bearings..... Oh and Performance (where I bought the bike) no longer carries Giant.

And to make matters worse I'm heading to Fruita in a week and a 1/2 and I've gotta have the bike fixed & tested by then.

I think I'll just fix it myself, but I'd be interested to hear what Giant has done for others when their 05' bearings have failed.
 

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Similar thing happened to my mate's frame. I don't think the bearing seat gets damaged cos it's protected by the outer race. It's pretty easy to tell when the bearing goes eh? The whole rear end starts to flex all over the place. The trick is removing the race without causing any damage. (Tomorrow night's task - will let you know how it goes).

Edit:
Dismantled the rear triangle and found the spacer that goes between the linkage and the bearing seat had been deformed by hammering on the bearing seat and munted the frame in the process. The RHS bearing was rough but still intact, but the same thing had started to happen to the spacer & frame. Frame is only 10 months old and well maintained, as soon as the bearing collapsed the guy stopped riding it. Hopefully Giant will replace the rear triangle.

The bearings in the centre of the linkage were rough but had no play. The big bearings in the lower swing-link were in perfect nick. The driveside Raceface X-type bearing was rough and the other side was fine.

Moral of the story: replace the upper bearings in the rear triangle with Enduro Max from Chris sooner rather than later, (and keep a close eye on them thereafter)http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id56.html.
 

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Quick question. I have a trance 2 (06 model) and its been making noise at high torque. If if push the pedal down (while holding the bike stationary) with my hand I he ar a click noise. While riding I can hear noises only at high torque. At the shop he tightened some bolts and told me to expect some noises, that it cant be totally quiet. The thing is that i am pretty new to biking and have no clue whats going on, or whether it is acceptable or not. Could this be a bearing issue?
 

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This is really a matter for another thread, let's keep Lynx's damn fine thread on-topic.

I think the noise is probably crank/bb or bb/frame interface. Liberal coating of anti-seize grease and correct torque should sort it. Of course it could also be seat-post/frame, QR/frame, frame/wheel QR, pedals/crank or headset/stem/bars. Grease and tighten intelligently - (not brutally OR insufficiently). Or, take it to another shop if your lazy mechanic won't sort it for you.
 

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Can anyone confirm that the picture is correctly labeled?

I'm assuming that the part labeled "frame" is physically part of the rear triangle. Or is it part of the bearing?

Because if it is part of the rear triangle, then I don't see how I'm going to remove the remainder of the existing bearing (outer race/bearing cage) as it has to be pressed out towards the camera/viewer.

{edit} Never mind, I see that it's actually a spacer that sits between the rocker and the bearing
 

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Steve71 said:
Because if it is part of the rear triangle, then I don't see how I'm going to remove the remainder of the existing bearing (outer race/bearing cage) as it has to be pressed out towards the camera/viewer.

{edit} Never mind, I see that it's actually a spacer that sits between the rocker and the bearing
There's a lip on the inside of the outer race you can use to extract it. Take it to an engineer or make a tool.
Have you had a look at the spacer & reverse side of the rear triangle? Mashed?
 
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