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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I finally got my Trance3 cleared and into my posession this last Monday - Oh Boy am I a happy capmer now :D Only 2 places use round tubing - seat tube and head tube, everything else is oval or triangular or squared - really sweet and doesn't look like another bike around.

Very sweet bike, I haven't been on a proper ride yet have just been tooling around trying to get the shock/fork dialed in and breaking in the breaks and general setup, BUT, It will descend anything it seems! I at least have a few nice places to test the downhill and I went down things I would definitely have not have even tried on my old bike, but not a complete trail just short downs.

It's very different to me in how it feels since I've never had a bike with such compliant suspension that actually works. I will say though that I have had to setup the shock and fork over recomendation.... recomended shock is your body weight to start (I'm 175lbs) and I'm up at 195lbs and the fork should be roughly 75% body weight (they say should be around 145-160lbs) I have it at 180lbs. I realy think I will be changing out the DUKE XC fork as soon as I can and maybe the Float R to an RP3.

No access to internet so no pics, just using a work comp at my bros place to quickly update and let everyone know how sweet it rides. Have a full ride tomorrow and will post pics and thoughts on Monday.

edit Manage to get online briefly again and had a pic with me
 

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???

Really sweet bike. I also plan to get one this spring. Given the price it seems to be a good value. Except, I am not sure about the quality of its brakes Hayes Sole - this is supposed to be a new low-end model from Hayes. So far I could not find any review of this brakes. What is your first impression? Or is it just another adept for replacement?
 

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MartinXC said:
Really sweet bike. I also plan to get one this spring. Given the price it seems to be a good value. Except, I am not sure about the quality of its brakes Hayes Sole - this is supposed to be a new low-end model from Hayes. So far I could not find any review of this brakes. What is your first impression? Or is it just another adept for replacement?
Glad to hear that you finally received your T3, hope it rides like you want it to.Do the little octagons painted on the frame bother you? The new Hayes are a pretty good brake. They are adjustable with a allen key on both sides and seem to work pretty good. Enjoy the ride!
 

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amazing frame

LyNx said:
Well I finally got my Trance3 cleared and into my posession this last Monday - Oh Boy am I a happy capmer now :D Only 2 places use round tubing - seat tube and head tube, everything else is oval or triangular or squared - really sweet and doesn't look like another bike around.

edit Manage to get online briefly again and had a pic with me
it looks fantastic ... they should make a carbon versin and they would have me sold!!!!
 

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mtbgrasshopper said:
Then you would be complaining endlessly about Giant.
what? I still riding a GT STS in "heavy" thermoplastic, carbon seems to be the only way to actually be able to shave off a few grams from a frame (see Scott line 2005, ot Giant own offerings).

Giant has proven to be a real innovator in bike design and own all the technology to make a carbon version of the trance, it will probably come next year. The aluminum Trance,by the way, with all the beautiful idroformed tubing, put to shame many pseudo-costum brand-name USA bikes. Congratulations Giant!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Chupacabras said:
Looks sweet :D

What size is that?
Well it's a 22" / XL frame and she's a bigun - if you couldn't tell. (finally got dialed-on and seem to b able to stay on longer than getting headers for mail so I'll post as much as I can) All the pics you've seen (anyone) has been of SM or MD frames (16" or 18") cause you can see how low down on the frame the pivot pint seems. Stand-over is kinda close, but not really I can still raise the bike off the ground a good 3-4" without killing the jewels :D

Glad to hear that you finally received your T3, hope it rides like you want it to.Do the little octagons painted on the frame bother you?
Thanks, she rides real nice, just will taker some time to get used to it. I'm guessing going to a Fuel or NRS would have been an easier adjustment than going to this new design. It's weird having suspension that actually works. Getting accustomed to the sag and plushness is something that will take a bit of time - but I sure am enjoying it. In the little I've managed to ride it (bout 150-170 miles) she's riden pretty sweet and saved my bacon a few times and my confidence is up because of it.

As for the brakes ... although the r suppsosed to be the "low end" they seem pretty good to me (although my 1st time on disc) and can be easily adjusted and work well.

unfortunately instruction/manauals for the brakes and worse the shocks/forks sucks, they really should try to make better manauals for all these items and more specific - I don't want a manual to tell me know how to set up a feature I don't have (and take a couple pages to do it) and have diddly squat on what's really important.

Now for the bad news....... I don't know what happened, but the bushings in the fork have gone or at least in 1 of the legs so I'll be sending it back up with a friend in a few days with the hopes that they have a replacement fork at the shop and can send it back and deal with SRAM as he will only be there for a couple days and I know it'll take longer than that to get it dealt with through SRAM.

I will say with all my praises of the bike I am still intent on my goals of switching out the shock and fork for better versions WITH lock-out or at least some stiffer settings - RP3 comes to mind for shock. The ride is nice and you don't feel too much peddle bob, but I Still feel some and have the shock set very hard - I'm 175lbs and it's @ 200lbs - so I think the RP3 would be a goos solution and maybe a Maraton S for the fork. I may take the oportunity to buy the fork now and shipped it for my friend to pick up and just sell the RS Duke whenever I get it back. Maybe it's all the commuting I do or the big hills, but I feel way to much bob and for sure the Duke fork isn't cutting it - I can live with the Float R shock.

Anyways all in all a super sweet bike, great price and super sweet looks. GIANT has done a great job with this new design as far as I'm concerned.

As for the HEXagons (octagons are 8 sided :D ) no they don't bother me, only time I look at them is when I'm not riding it ( but I do spend a lot of time staring at it when I'm not riding :D ) Only thing that bothers me about them is that they are such pissy, muddy colours, kinda 1/2 a$$ed - would have looked better it the full bright version of the colours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
TRANCE BB area pics

Thought since I can now get online I'd post some close-up pics of the suspension area that getting so much fuss, so that those considering could get a look see. Hope they help and if you want more let me know.
 

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IDK whether the Float air pressure compares with that of the RP3, but if I pumped my RP3 up to 25psi more than my weight then the bike would ride topped-out nearly all the time and never bottom. Is that the way yours does? I guess you're coming from a HT? Embrace the sag and plushness!!

There are several ways to set up the shock pressure. The common way for XC-type folks is to sit on the bike while a friend holds it upright, then get off and see where the o-ring is. Measure the distance from the shock outer body to the o-ring to determine the sag. Sag should be anywhere between 15-30% of travel but depends on the suspension design and of course taste & terrain. Now that's where I wish Giant would give some info. But the Fox shock manual at least tells you how many mm is the approx. right amount of sag.

The other way which is a lot more style and terrain-specific is to take the shock pump with you on rides and when you get to a hard, technical descent or something you think could cause it to bottom, then reset the o-ring position at the top, ride down it and check if it bottomed (should push the o-ring nearly off of the shock inner shaft). Repeat and adjust the air pressure until it bottoms occasionally on the hardest terrain you ride. Remember the psi setting that works. So for me, on the tougher trails I ride (more technical, drops), I need 160psi to keep from bottoming frequently, but on the smoother trails I run at 150psi.

Anyway... this method will usually result in a more plush & active rear suspension than the "sag" method, and also dials it for your specific terrain and riding style.

You can do the same thing with a zip tie around the fork stanction FWIW.

Just curious if the shock bottoms occasionally set to the pressure you have it set at...

??

Sorry to hear about the fork bushing FWIW... man that's real early failure. I rode my beloved Manitou Mars fork for 3 years about 30-50 offroad miles/week before it needed any service, and it was a bent compression damper rod causing the compression piston to stick and get the fork stuck topped-out. $30 and two weeks later it was better than new. I'm sticking with Manitou for the long haul! Seems like I had to crack open my RS fork I had before all the time... and a friend has a Psylo that when it's working is a great fork but was very high maintenance. I'm a very happy SRAM customer for drivetrain parts but for forks, long live Manitou!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sharprocks said:
Just curious if the shock bottoms occasionally set to the pressure you have it set at...

??
Manitou!
No the shock hasn't boottomed out yet, but comes close to within 1 cm. I set the SAG according to FOX's recomendation - which they say is 9mm for it- and that's the pressure I have to run (maybe I'm heavier than the scale says ). I may try it a wee bit lower but not much. The ride is pretty nice and keeps contact with the terrain nicely only thing I mess with is the rebound for now which I think I have where I want it. Not coming from a HT just a crappy "cosumer MTB" which I "shackled out" in the 10 months I had it. I either had the back shock (coil over) really hard or soft and it never tracked anything only worked for peddle bob and any drops.

As for the fork I think I'm going with a Manitou BLACK Super myself and sell the DUKE.
 

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LyNx said:
No the shock hasn't boottomed out yet, but comes close to within 1 cm.
OK. 1cm distance o-ring to the end of the shock body?

The shock travel is about 38mm right? So 1cm is over 25%. That means you've not come within an inch of bottoming out the travel. IMHO, you got too much pressure in the shock!

but that's my personal preference, for the bike to use all of the travel on scariest part of the trails I ride most frequently.

I set the SAG according to FOX's recomendation - which they say is 9mm for it- and that's the pressure I have to run (maybe I'm heavier than the scale says ).
Well, could be your scale is off, and also could be your shock pump's gauge is off.

9mm is ~24% of shock travel, so sag of about an inch. That's just about right! I think I might be running a touch more sag... maybe as much as 12mm on the shock. I'll have to check. But I only actually BOTTOM the shock (push the o-ring all the way off onto the shock mount) when the pressure is below ~75% of my weight. Currently I have it at ~85% of my weight.

I may try it a wee bit lower but not much. The ride is pretty nice and keeps contact with the terrain nicely only thing I mess with is the rebound for now which I think I have where I want it.
worthwhile to try it at a pressure that will bottom occasionally, maybe along with a little more damping (a click or two more rebound). Sounds like you're only using about 70% of the travel.

As for the fork I think I'm going with a Manitou BLACK Super myself and sell the DUKE.
My original choice was a 2003 Black Super Air. Finding a NOS 2003 model fork in early 2005 is not exactly easy. That's the last year the Black Super Air had adjustable travel and the TPC+ damper.

Well, I could have bought one but the only ones had v-brake bosses and I had already decided just for appearance-sake I was not getting a for with v-brake bosses. So I settled on the .4 lb heavier Black Elite TPC+ 100/120 (2003).

Out of the box the fork has pretty hard compression damping and I think I'm going to crack it open and see if I can't dial it down a notch or two. You only notice it on longish descents with technical terrain, gets a little rough.

If I were going to buy a new 2004 or 2005 model Manitou fork, it was going to be a Minute 1:00 or Minute 3:00. I still may ride this Black Elite until the end of this year, and see if I can find a closeout on a Minute 3:00 to replace it. For the $200 I spent on the Black Elite it's a can't miss...

Now, the customer service story... When my Mars (regular Mars, 2001 model) started acting up, I called them and they quickly told me what the problem was. It was sticking topped-out. They said the compression rod (plastic) was bent. The old TPC-sport (non-adjustable) damper had plastic compression rod & piston. Then they asked me if I'd been running heavier fork oil than 5wt. I told them that since it was non-adjustable, to get the best response from the fork, I adjusted the damping by changing fluid and I had 10wt in it. The guy said "well, that's what killed your fork... see that damper can't handle 10wt oil, it'll bend the compression rod". So I knew I was sending it back for the outrageously cheap $30 rebuild, and I asked if I could have them upgrade to the TPC damper (adjustable, aluminum compression circuit, can run heavier oil). The guy said there were no more 2001 model TPC damper parts around so it was not likely. I was willing to pay to upgrade. I also told them the shock didn't have boots on it because I used Lizard Skin boots, since the Manitou boots fell off all the time. He flat-out said, "you know, that TPC sport damper is not the best. and those boots are a pain.".

Well, long story short(er):

I paid my $30 and REI sent it back. In less than two weeks I got my fork back with new bushings & seals, plus the new mini-boots like come on a Skareb fork (which work GREAT), but more importantly, an upgraded TPC damper with a rebound aduster and the whole thing. Gratis. Don't ask me where they found the parts. But the main thing that impressed me was that not only were they candid and honest when I talked to them on the phone, but they remembered the conversation and went out of their way to make a customer happy. The truth is that I put about 10K offroad miles on that Mars fork in three years and half of the time I was 250+ lb which is way more than you can expect a little lightweight XC fork to take. I was already very pleased with the performance of the fork and would have been happy just to have gotten it back as original with new seals & bushings. But they went the extra mile, in a big way. So they earned my return business.

My friend, on the other hand, bought a new Specialized bike that came with a Fox TALAS fork. He rode it about 2 months then in a very minor wreck, the dropout snapped off of the fork (!!!). Didn't even bend a spoke but broke this supposedly bulletproof fork? Well he tried to get it warrantied and they would not do it. Said they don't cover "crash damage". He ended up having to buy a whole new $500+ fork for his two-month-old bike. Contrast that customer service experience with Manitou story above... you see why I could care less how good the Fox forks perform, Manitou wins my business.
 

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DW Link bikes ride awesome

LyNx said:
Thought since I can now get online I'd post some close-up pics of the suspension area that getting so much fuss, so that those considering could get a look see. Hope they help and if you want more let me know.
Pretty bike, you are going to love the way the DW link suspension pedals.
 

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cruso414 said:
Pretty bike, you are going to love the way the DW link suspension pedals.
It's not technically a DW link since Giant didn't license from Dave. I haven't mapped it out but I think it'll end up being relatively close to DW in terms of path/rate (or at least closer to DW then VPP).
 

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How is it NOT a DW-link?

BikeSATORI said:
how is it a DW-link?
Look at the pictures of the Iron Horse MK III and the Independent Fab, both are licensed designs from Dave Weagle, the Giant is NOT licensed, just copied. If you read Dave's definition of what a DW-link is: It is defined by the short links coupled to triangulated rear suspension members, the paired set of links rotate in the same direction and create suspension motion throughout the travel.
 

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