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Bushwacker
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having a Tora 318 U-Turn installed and was wondering if any smaller sized clydes can relay some insight on the upgrade to Firm (blue) and X-Firm (black) springs.
I weigh 220 with gear, I've heard mixed reccomendations. It comes with the medium spring. I read somewhere the X-Firm spring is waaay too firm unless you're a very big clyde. I think the Recon takes the same springs. I ride cross country mostly and don't jump. I never bottomed out the stock spring that came in my Dart II that is being replaced by the Tora. I'll try the stock Tora spring first but realize I may have to do a swap for something stiffer. I'm looking mostly for plushness over trail roots, small rocks etc. I would appreciate any experiences/reccomendations....thanks.
 

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im about 210 all geared up, and the xfirm was pretty firm.. really not plush enough, never bottomed it at all. probably should have gone for firm! the stock spring was just silly, bottomed out all over the place. its now my girlfriends fork, it works well for her at 130lbs.
 

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Bushwacker
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465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.
Can anyone tell me if the lowers need to come off to swap out the spring or can I just pull it out from the top? I checked the SRAM website but can't tell for sure.
 

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You don't need to remove the lowers. But if I remember correctly, first remove loosen the top cap. If its the U-turn model you will need to remove the U-turn knob. You also have to remove the bolt on the lower of the stanchions (lower tubes). back the bolt out 1/4 in or so and tap with a rubber mallet. This will loosen the spring/rod. Also put a drain pan under the fork as oil will come out. The spring should pull up and out.

This should help

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-4310-745-000 2006 Tora Service Guide.pdf

19. Using a 2.5mm hex wrench, remove U-Turn knob screw
(fig 19a).
Remove U-Turn adjuster knob (fig 19b).
Using a magnet, remove detent ball bearings and detent
springs from top cap (fig 19c).
20. Using a 24mm socket wrench, loosen and remove UTurn
spring top cap (figs 20a/20b). The spring is
attached to the top cap and spring shaft. Pull and lift
entire spring assembly from upper tube (fig 20c).
IMPORTANT! PRESS DOWN SQUARE AND FIRM
WHEN LOOSENING TOP CAPS.
21. Remove U-Turn negative spring assembly from upper tube (fig 21). You may need to remove fork from
bicycle workstand and turn upside down to remove. Clean and re-install.
22. Spray entire spring assembly with isopropyl alcohol. Wipe all grease and oil from top cap, spring and shaft. Apply grease to outside of
entire coil spring and spring isolator.
 

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Bushwacker
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465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
07 FSRxc said:
You don't need to remove the lowers. But if I remember correctly, first remove loosen the top cap. If its the U-turn model you will need to remove the U-turn knob. You also have to remove the bolt on the lower of the stanchions (lower tubes). back the bolt out 1/4 in or so and tap with a rubber mallet. This will loosen the spring/rod. Also put a drain pan under the fork as oil will come out. The spring should pull up and out.

This should help

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-4310-745-000 2006 Tora Service Guide.pdf

19. Using a 2.5mm hex wrench, remove U-Turn knob screw
(fig 19a).
Remove U-Turn adjuster knob (fig 19b).
Using a magnet, remove detent ball bearings and detent
springs from top cap (fig 19c).
20. Using a 24mm socket wrench, loosen and remove UTurn
spring top cap (figs 20a/20b). The spring is
attached to the top cap and spring shaft. Pull and lift
entire spring assembly from upper tube (fig 20c).
IMPORTANT! PRESS DOWN SQUARE AND FIRM
WHEN LOOSENING TOP CAPS.
21. Remove U-Turn negative spring assembly from upper tube (fig 21). You may need to remove fork from
bicycle workstand and turn upside down to remove. Clean and re-install.
22. Spray entire spring assembly with isopropyl alcohol. Wipe all grease and oil from top cap, spring and shaft. Apply grease to outside of
entire coil spring and spring isolator.
So the bolt on the U-Turn bottom leg is connected to the spring assembly? I just pull the bolt as described, drain the oil, pull and replace the spring, reinstall the spring and replace the oil and then reinstall the lower bolt without messing with the right side of the fork?
Sorry for being thick headed, thanks for the help!
 

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Starkonian said:
So the bolt on the U-Turn bottom leg is connected to the spring assembly? I just pull the bolt as described, drain the oil, pull and replace the spring, reinstall the spring and replace the oil and then reinstall the lower bolt without messing with the right side of the fork?
Sorry for being thick headed, thanks for the help!
Ya, the bolt is connected to the spring rod. Do you have the new spring yet? There are photos in that PDF I gave you in the last post. They will halp understanding what your doing. Its a pretty simple deal ounce you realize everything that need to be done.

Using a 5mm hex wrench, loosen spring shaft bolt 3 to 4
turns (fig. 3a). bottom of left lower.
With hex wrench in shaft bolt, tap each bolt free with
plastic mallet. It will take some force to push the rod out of t he lowers. Using your fingers, remove the shaft
bolt completely (fig. 3b).
Using your fingers, remove shaft bolt from the
threaded shaft end (fig. 3c).
9. Using a 2.5mm hex wrench, remove U-Turn knob screw
(fig 19a).
Remove U-Turn adjuster knob (fig 19b).
Using a magnet, remove detente ball bearings and detente
springs from top cap (fig 19c).
20. Using a 24mm socket wrench, loosen and remove UTurn
spring top cap (figs 20a/20b). The spring is
attached to the top cap and spring shaft. Pull and lift
entire spring assembly from upper tube (fig 20c).
IMPORTANT! PRESS DOWN SQUARE AND FIRM
WHEN LOOSENING TOP CAPS.
21. Remove U-Turn negative spring assembly from upper tube (fig 21). You may need to remove fork from
bicycle workstand and turn upside down to remove. Clean and re-install.
22. Spray entire spring assembly with isopropyl alcohol. Wipe all grease and oil from top cap, spring and shaft. Apply grease to outside of
entire coil spring and spring isolator.
 

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Bushwacker
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465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
07 FSRxc said:
Ya, the bolt is connected to the spring rod. Do you have the new spring yet? There are photos in that PDF I gave you in the last post. They will halp understanding what your doing. Its a pretty simple deal ounce you realize everything that need to be done.

Using a 5mm hex wrench, loosen spring shaft bolt 3 to 4
turns (fig. 3a). bottom of left lower.
With hex wrench in shaft bolt, tap each bolt free with
plastic mallet. It will take some force to push the rod out of t he lowers. Using your fingers, remove the shaft
bolt completely (fig. 3b).
Using your fingers, remove shaft bolt from the
threaded shaft end (fig. 3c).
9. Using a 2.5mm hex wrench, remove U-Turn knob screw
(fig 19a).
Remove U-Turn adjuster knob (fig 19b).
Using a magnet, remove detente ball bearings and detente
springs from top cap (fig 19c).
20. Using a 24mm socket wrench, loosen and remove UTurn
spring top cap (figs 20a/20b). The spring is
attached to the top cap and spring shaft. Pull and lift
entire spring assembly from upper tube (fig 20c).
IMPORTANT! PRESS DOWN SQUARE AND FIRM
WHEN LOOSENING TOP CAPS.
21. Remove U-Turn negative spring assembly from upper tube (fig 21). You may need to remove fork from
bicycle workstand and turn upside down to remove. Clean and re-install.
22. Spray entire spring assembly with isopropyl alcohol. Wipe all grease and oil from top cap, spring and shaft. Apply grease to outside of
entire coil spring and spring isolator.
I did review the Rockshox instructions/photos but one of the things that confused me was they advise to remove both bottom bolts and the whole lower end. I'd rather not do that if it's not nessesary to avoid screwing anything else up on the right side. That's nice if I don't have to remove the right side bolt etc.
I don't have the spring yet. I'm holding out a small (most likely futile) hope that the stock spring may be OK since I liked the softer stock spring in my Dart 2. If/when I make the move for a spring I'm going to go with the Firm one. I'm finding the Firm is hard to locate vs. the X-Firm which is more widely stocked per my Google searches. I may have found one for $29. If you have an inside line on the Firm please let me know where...Thx again for the help.
 

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theres no chance that the stock spring will work for you.. you'll probably damage your moco cart running it stiff enough to give a reasonable ride too. you'd pretty easily bottom it just riding off curbs!

you'll never tap loose the bottom bolt without first unscrewing the spring top cap. the spring pressure keeps the bolt firmly planted. all in all, a spring swap is about a 5 minute job. super easy. you'll probably lose some oil from the lowers, so be ready to replace 15cc or whatever it is in there.

oh im in the east bay and have a xfirm spring i wouldnt mind selling for 15 bucks, if you want to try it anyway.
 

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Bushwacker
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465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I installed the Blue Firm spring, I got a couple pm's asking what I thought about it.
The stock Medium spring was actually doable but a little too plush and really bobbed when I came out of the saddle on up hill grunts. The Firm bobs a little but that's where my hanlde bar poplock really shines. When I'm out of the saddle really pumping over the handle bars I just hit the poploc and the motion control eliminates it. It's still nice and plush for cross country and down hillers. X-tra Firm would be too stiff. I'm about 220. Now, if somebody does a lot up big jumps/drops you might have no choice but the X-tra Firm. For cross country, typical log drops and small to medium berm jumps it's perfectin my weight range. Hope this helps.
 

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You don't need to do the lowers. Also watch out for the ball bearings under the u-turn knob. 265 lbs and use the firm spring on the Recon for cross-country use. When near the 80 mm setting it seems to be more stiff than in the 120 mm setting (superlight warranty says max 120 mm.
 

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Bushwacker
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465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bigfekk said:
You don't need to do the lowers. Also watch out for the ball bearings under the u-turn knob. 265 lbs and use the firm spring on the Recon for cross-country use. When near the 80 mm setting it seems to be more stiff than in the 120 mm setting (superlight warranty says max 120 mm.
I think RS says spring rate increases when the U-Turn is cranked down so I suppose that is another way to fine tune firmness.
 

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If it's the Black spring with part # 11 4310 139 000 I have one the I can sell you for a good price. I has it installed in a Recon 351 but when I sold it I put the stock spring in it for the guys that bought it. Send me a PM if interested. I'm a 230lb guy and it work perfect.

Starkonian said:
Having a Tora 318 U-Turn installed and was wondering if any smaller sized clydes can relay some insight on the upgrade to Firm (blue) and X-Firm (black) springs.
I weigh 220 with gear, I've heard mixed reccomendations. It comes with the medium spring. I read somewhere the X-Firm spring is waaay too firm unless you're a very big clyde. I think the Recon takes the same springs. I ride cross country mostly and don't jump. I never bottomed out the stock spring that came in my Dart II that is being replaced by the Tora. I'll try the stock Tora spring first but realize I may have to do a swap for something stiffer. I'm looking mostly for plushness over trail roots, small rocks etc. I would appreciate any experiences/reccomendations....thanks.
 

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Which is the color of new Tora 318 U-turn (2009)?

Here is white:
http://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/trail/tora/#tab1
(Official page info.: - "Standard Colors: Black, Diffusion Black, Diffusion Silver")

And what is about V-brake bosses? (I prefer "disc only" version because I dont use V-brakes.)
(Official page info.: - "Lower Options: Boss or disc specific".)

I asked local dealer and he said: "Tora 318 U-turn "disc only" version is not for sell in stores separately and if you buy it separately somehow, you will not have a waranty. It only comes install on bike. If you want to buy fork and to have a waranty, then your choise should be fork with both - disc mount and V-brake bosses."

Your experiences?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Bushwacker
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465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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Hi all,

I'm about to receive my new 2009 Tora 302 U-turn. However, reading the reviews and the manuals into more detail I fear the standard spring will not suffice for me (around 90 kg)
I'm thinking the Blue spring (Firm) 11.4310.170.000 is what would match my weight and expectations on firmness and plushness. I mostly do XC with some small jumps and like going down the hill fast, but it's not really heavy downhilling.

I have found many extra firm (black) spring sets on various online stores, but I haven't come across a store that sells the blue spring.
Does anybody know where to get the blue U-turn spring set 11.4310.170.000 at a decent price?

(BTW: I live in the Netherlands, but if shipping is not too expensive I don't mind where it ships from)

Thanks a lot in advance.
 

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I have a tora 318 uturn xfirm spring sitting in my house... brand new if anyone wants it let me know... Ill sell it for the huge price of free... or shipping if you dont live in the bay area...
 
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