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RideDirt
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Anyone have a ToPeak D-Torq Wrench DX ?

So has anyone used this ? I dont know how good these electric torque wrenches might be and if they stay in calibration or if they need to be re-calibrated? I have some cheapo ones that i picked up back in the days but they are kind of a pita sometimes.. I was debating on either maybe getting a park tool trq wrench or maybe this one ? Anyone using it and how spot on is it ?

Topeak® Cycling Accessories
 

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I've been looking at this tool for a long time. Did quite a bit of research comparing click-type mechanical torque wrenches to digital ones. This topeak is one of the nicest ones I found. Problem is the price. Hard to justify. I'd love to see some long term reviews. If you can afford it I'm sure you'd be happy with it.

My local shop has the smaller non-dx version, 1-20 N-m, and I'm not sure what torque range would be better. Are there any fasteners on a bike with listed torque requirements in the 1 to 4 N-m range? If not the DX version would certainly be more versatile.
 

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RideDirt
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I can afford it but I like to spend my money wisely sometimes that is lol , i dont know if the park tool click type is better then a digital trq wrench. I have some of topeaks stuff and its great quality and was very interested in this wrench but would love to hear from anyone that has had experience with both before I just buy it. Everything on my bike is 4nm and up but I dont mind having both for whatever, im kind of a tool addict lol .
 

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The digital ones are useful for setting the drag on Shimano's clutch-type derailleurs, as they (almost always) have instant torque readout, vs the click-type.
 

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RideDirt
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The digital ones are useful for setting the drag on Shimano's clutch-type derailleurs, as they (almost always) have instant torque readout, vs the click-type.
So then im assuming this would be a good thing then ? I dont want to shell out the cash and then be stuck with something that is an epic failure lol .
 

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Ninja Master Powers
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If it were me I'd buy the two Park Tool clickers (I did) they work well, they can be sent to Park for recal, don't require batteries and are sufficiently over priced.

As for using a torque wrench to adjust your clutch rear D. Good luck.
Not sure how the SRAM works but XTR takes a tiny little wrench which is actually part of the rear D. Less than 1/4 turn its perfect and I've had to do it once since buying it over a year ago.
 

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Wanderer
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I use this one and its worked perfectly for me. I picked it up on Amazon at a nice price, skip buying it at a bike store. Had it for 2 years at least, no complaints.
 

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Plays with tools
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Personally I've got a par of Gear Wrench click style torque wrenches. One that works for most bolts on a bike and a bigger one that's for BB's and single crank arm fixing bolts. I've had them for a few years now and they've held up very well under professorial use.

The Topeak does look like a solid tool though.
 

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So has anyone used this ? I dont know how good these electric torque wrenches might be and if they stay in calibration or if they need to be re-calibrated? I have some cheapo ones that i picked up back in the days but they are kind of a pita sometimes.. I was debating on either maybe getting a park tool trq wrench or maybe this one ? Anyone using it and how spot on is it ?

Topeak® Cycling Accessories
I haven’t tried the Topeak DX model that you are considering, but have been using the Topeak D-Torq for about a year now. I debated whether to purchase the D-Torq Wrench (1-20 Nm range) or the D-Torq Wrench DX (4-80 Nm range), and decided on the lower torque range model. Most of the fasteners on my FS bike fall within the range of the D-Torq Wrench (1-20 Nm). Only the bottom bracket and pedals have a higher torque setting, and I feel comfortable torqueing both of those without a torque wrench. I have several torque wrenches, including click-type and beam wrenches, and the Topeak is now my go to torque wrench. In my opinion, the only down side of the Topeak wrench is the price. I ended up purchasing it through Amazon, which at the time had the best price.
 

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I haven’t tried the Topeak DX model that you are considering, but have been using the Topeak D-Torq for about a year now. I debated whether to purchase the D-Torq Wrench (1-20 Nm range) or the D-Torq Wrench DX (4-80 Nm range), and decided on the lower torque range model. Most of the fasteners on my FS bike fall within the range of the D-Torq Wrench (1-20 Nm). Only the bottom bracket and pedals have a higher torque setting, and I feel comfortable torqueing both of those without a torque wrench. I have several torque wrenches, including click-type and beam wrenches, and the Topeak is now my go to torque wrench. In my opinion, the only down side of the Topeak wrench is the price. I ended up purchasing it through Amazon, which at the time had the best price.
Just out of curiosity, which fasteners on a bike are between 1 and 3 N-m, and would not work with the DX?
 

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Just out of curiosity, which fasteners on a bike are between 1 and 3 N-m, and would not work with the DX?
Any FSA crank with MegaExo will have their preload bolt that requires 0.7-1.5 Nm.

I have a clicker type Craftsman that goes from 5-80 Nm and I managed to break off the head of a bolt that required 8Nm on my motorcycle. I will never trust that wrench for anything less than 20Nm.

The DX is a massive wrench. It's huge. it is almost 3ft long and weighs a pound.

The smaller Topeak is an awesome wrench, I love mine and am glad I bought it. It seems like the price has gone up at Amazon in the last week or so as I paid much less for it than what it lists for now.
 

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Just out of curiosity, which fasteners on a bike are between 1 and 3 N-m, and would not work with the DX?
I chose the smaller Topeak over the DX model not because it has a lower range, but because of potentially better accuracy. Most of the bolt torques on my bikes are in the 5-9 Nm range, which is near the middle of the D-Torq range, but near the bottom of the DX’s range. Torque wrenches are typically less accurate at the lower end of their range. This is also evidenced by the calibration test results provided with my Topeak D-Torq wrench, which shows the accuracy falling off drastically near the bottom of the range (but still within the ±4% tolerance) . Since I only use it on my bikes, it didn’t make sense, at least for me, to purchase the larger DX model. If you have other uses, it may make sense to get the larger model. In answer to your question, most of the torques below 4nm are for setting bearing preloads and other non-critical fasteners, such as the brake pad retaining screws on Shimano brakes (1.5Nm).
 

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The DX is actually 33cm (not inches) long. But I agree, 3ft would indeed be huge!
Oooops! I guess I better check the unit next time. 13.1" is still a pretty massive size to work on the bike and I 100% agree that the smaller one provides the right range and accuracy for most of the bicycle applications.
 

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Dave's not here.
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I have been using the el cheapo Harbor Freight $20 (got it for $9) torque wrench for years and never broke or stripped a bolt yet. Compares to a high quality torque wrench a friend has without the cost. Shucks, I never even had it calibrated and it's still on par.
 
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