On the other side there is a pre-load. It requires a really small 2 hex. You can loosen it up and/or snug it down. It isn't how you keep it from wobbling. But other than a 2 hex and a 10 hex you shouldn't need any tools. I'm assuming they are PF30?
Maybe a rubber mallet as well. The diagram is pretty informative. It is for XX1, but it's the same practice for XX1 or the 1250.
I don't know what plastic cap you are talking about. I needed a breaker bar to get mine to give way. It was on purdy tight. I think they put them on super tight at the factory. It wasn't the easiest thing to do by myself either. I would suggest a helper to hold the bike and crank stable. You have to hold the bike and crank arm stable while torquing on it.
The torque listed for tightening is more or less irrelevant. It's "really damn tight" or "really really damn tight" (425 to 475 in/lb).
You just back off the 10mm..it's self extracting. This will take off the drive side arm and allow you to tighten the preload adjustment ring to get rid of the play. I have had mine apart several times for the same reason. You will need some extra leverage to get it broke loose.
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