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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. I just built my first wheel. I'm finishing up the truing and I need to know what the tolerance is for lateral and vertical play. I have two spots on the rim that "wobble out" but they are less than a mm out. I also have two humps that are less than a mm. I have been adjusting at this point for about an hour with no noticeable changes. Is it possible that the rim is out by that much and is just gonna stay out? Have I officially finished a wheel or do I keep at it?

Salsa Gordo
White Industries hub
DT straight gauge spokes ( I assume they are straight gauge.)
Anodized aluminum nipples
 

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I'm usually satisfied with less than 1 mm runout on my wheels.

If I'm working on wheels for someone else, I might try to get less than 1/2 mm, to be doing a good job.

If you've properly tensioned and relieved them, try them out for a few rides and see how they perform! Then put them back on the stand and check their runout.
 

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A wheelist
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Equal tension between spokes is more important than ultimate trueness. By trying for more trueness you might be getting the tensions way out of whack.

Trueness is more important on a rim brake wheel than a disc brake wheel.
 

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Barnett's recommends 0.5mm. But as Mike T says tension balancing should be higher priority for a strong durable wheel build.
 

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Anything much finer...

than .5mm isn't really worth the effort. I've trued down to .2mm before, but it didn't make for a better wheel. It just proved that I could do it. As long as it's less than 1mm don't sweat it, you're done! :thumbsup:

Good Dirt
 

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err, 27.5+
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Depending on the rim it may not get any better. Some manufacturers are a bit more loose on tolerance, especially at the rim joint. I have a pair of sun SOS rims that are terrible, either side of the rim is different. So I have to true to one of them and let the other do what it wants. Vertically is also another can of worms.

Close enough is good enough. So long as you have proper tension about 1mm or wobble is fine. Mount a tire and ride it. After about 40-50mi throw it back in the stand and retension as necessary. Since this is your first wheel I am assuming that you didn't relieve the spokes, so the first truing in a couple of weeks will be more important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
AL29er said:
Since this is your first wheel I am assuming that you didn't relieve the spokes, so the first truing in a couple of weeks will be more important.
you would assme wrong I have relieved at every step. Mike T's website and the other stickies have been my guide. Thanks everyone.
 

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I used to shoot for about .2-.3mm on a new wheel but now a days .5mm is close enough. And on some rims there are some areas you have to let go and just shoot for even spoke tension, like the bulge or dip that a rim can have around the weld.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sweet, just finished messing with it and will post it in another thread. Thanks guys.
 

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Former Bike Wrench
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Equal tension between spokes is more important than ultimate trueness. By trying for more trueness you might be getting the tensions way out of whack.

Trueness is more important on a rim brake wheel than a disc brake wheel.
One of the great things about disc brake wheels is that you can give more attention to equal spoke tension than perfect true
 

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err, 27.5+
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BrandonNorCal said:
you would assme wrong I have relieved at every step. Mike T's website and the other stickies have been my guide. Thanks everyone.
Good on yah :thumbsup:
Sounds like you did it up right, should give you many a trouble free miles :)
 
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