Maybe I am not up on the latest lingo, but I have no idea what you are talking about besides the decals pealing off (I have a 2005 and the decals have never come off even once). What is "toe rub" and a "soft top tube"? Just curious, what kind of decals stay on better than the Ventana decals?
Toe rub and other issues with El Rey
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
You obviously haven't owned many bikes to say the finish on a Ventana is sub par. There is pretty much no bike maker in the industry that rivals the amount of detail put into a frame.Odnis said:
And you're seriously complaining about stickers? We all know that stickers are the most important performance aspect of any bike.
Besides, any decal you spray with a hose is going to peel and come off. Just call Teresa and have her send you a new set. And since we're talking about stickers, mine are just fine after plenty of use. Then again, I don't hose down any of my bikes, as I'd like the bearings in all my parts to last for more than a month.A soft top tube? Never heard of or experienced that before. I have no idea how you'd even determine that. And if you have toe rub, that sucks, but it seems that should have been determined before you bought the bike, not years later.
And you can replace the decals with ease. If you base your entire experience on a set of decals then you should be really pissed off when you mash the rear derailleur on a rock or case a jump putting a flat spot on your rear wheel. It's a flucking decal call Ventana a buy a dozen of them.Odnis said:
No, 29ers are oversold......you drank the cool aid :nono: Buying a bike on subjective opinions posted on mtbr.com or what you read in mtn bike action is moronic and you have no one else to blame but yourself. Demo a bike before you blindly lay down the cash.Odnis said:
Toe rub is one of the bad things that happen to 29ers below a certain frame size......from what I have seen it is what it is....short people have no reason to ride 29ersOdnis said:
What do you mean by a "soft top tube"? Because I get a HARD center tube when I'm riding my Ciclon with that big massive 2" downtube........maybe you need Viagra to get your top tube hard.....
Customer service on isle 29 we have an unhappy customer. Then sell your POS 2007 El Rey and buy a complete 29er.....but please stop beetching on the internet….get over it already.Odnis said:
That might be a character flaw not any fault of Ventana......:madmax: :madmax:Odnis said:
Then I guess you will not like brands like Santa Cruz, Turner, Titus and others.......that powder coat first then apply decals. I see it as an option because I can remove the decals and then reapply them as needed. I think you will find it's not a big issue.Odnis said:
+1+1+1+1+1mtnbiker4life said:And you can replace the decals with ease. If you base your entire experience on a set of decals then you should be really pissed off when you mash the rear derailleur on a rock or case a jump putting a flat spot on your rear wheel. It's a flucking decal call Ventana a buy a dozen of them.
No, 29ers are oversold......you drank the cool aid :nono: Buying a bike on subjective opinions posted on mtbr.com or what you read in mtn bike action is moronic and you have no one else to blame but yourself. Demo a bike before you blindly lay down the cash.
Toe rub is one of the bad things that happen to 29ers below a certain frame size......from what I have seen it is what it is....short people have no reason to ride 29ers
What do you mean by a "soft top tube"? Because I get a HARD center tube when I'm riding my Ciclon with that big massive 2" downtube........maybe you need Viagra to get your top tube hard.....
Customer service on isle 29 we have an unhappy customer. Then sell your POS 2007 El Rey and buy a complete 29er.....but please stop beetching on the internet….get over it already.
That might be a character flaw not any fault of Ventana......:madmax: :madmax:
Then I guess you will not like brands like Santa Cruz, Turner, Titus and others.......that powder coat first then apply decals. I see it as an option because I can remove the decals and then reapply them as needed. I think you will find it's not a big issue.
Seriously.
Sorry to blur the discussion in this thread by intertwining three different issues. My bad. If you do not know about "toe rub" and "soft top tubes" I suggest you google these specific terms and you'll find them to be rather well knownlemmy999 said:
hated) technical issues on bicycles from brands of less prominent status than eg. V.I guess I must be a little older than you because when I started bike racing (1980) every quality bikes would be clearcoated. (The only part of a bikes graphics that sometimes could come off was the front badge). I am also reactionary: Today I still think that this is how bike graphics ought to be done. Everything else is short cutting things imho.
I don't see myself as a cry baby or a troll in this forum. I like to ride my El Rey when I know that I'm going somewhere this bike is up for. Initially, I wanted to share my thoughts about decals pealing off, but I guess I got emotional and forgot what my subject was and who I would be addressing. My bad again.
First, it's not our job to do your research to validate your claims. If you're going to put a claim out there like "soft top tubes" then back it up with your research otherwise you're just trolling. This happens a lot on mtbr.....posting think they can post some BS then run away from it and hope it sticks.....well, I am calling BS unless you can show me data to back it up.Odnis said:Sorry to blur the discussion in this thread by intertwining three different issues. My bad. If you do not know about "toe rub" and "soft top tubes" I suggest you google these specific terms and you'll find them to be rather well known
I guess I must be a little older than you because when I started bike racing (1980) every quality bikes would be clearcoated. (The only part of a bikes graphics that sometimes could come off was the front badge). I am also reactionary: Today I still think that this is how bike graphics ought to be done. Everything else is short cutting things imho.
I don't see myself as a cry baby or a troll in this forum. I like to ride my El Rey when I know that I'm going somewhere this bike is up for. Initially, I wanted to share my thoughts about decals pealing off, but I guess I got emotional and forgot what my subject was and who I would be addressing. My bad again.
Second, toe overlap is not a new issue. It's an issue with most 29er frames below a certain size which I believe is 18 inch frame size......I'm not 100% on the frame size but I remember reading a post a few years ago on the 29er forum.
Third, the clear coat over decals happens when the frame manufacture "wet" paints the frames. I know some PC decal materials can stand the heat of a powder coat oven....so I am sure this will be something we see in the near future. But, powder coating is much more environmentally friendly then "wet" painting. So you large manufactures like Trek, Fisher, Specialized, and all the "offshore" bike manufactures can afford to "wet" paint their frames.....because it's done in another country. And guess what China and other Asian countries do not have environmental regulations that prevent them from doing this.
Finally, I think you need to defend your statements with data instead of the "cut & run" mentality.
One more thing, if their is any small frame manufacture that has total control over all the manufacturing processes it's Ventana and Sherwood knows what he's doing.
i know it's kinda off topic, but reading this thing here left a question on my mind:
lot of people talking about frame flex, soft tubing, imprecise steering and whatsoever. but how can they tell if either the frame, the wheels, tires (e.g. wide tires on a small rim) or anything else flexes without measuring it - just by riding it? i wonder how they can exclusively blame frame flex for any steering issues....
sorry for off topic again:
well, to be on topic: i'm going to sandblast, wetpaint and re-sticker my salty next year in spring. and i'm not going to put the stickers under paint, just because i like the possibility to replace them whenever i want
lot of people talking about frame flex, soft tubing, imprecise steering and whatsoever. but how can they tell if either the frame, the wheels, tires (e.g. wide tires on a small rim) or anything else flexes without measuring it - just by riding it? i wonder how they can exclusively blame frame flex for any steering issues....
sorry for off topic again:
well, to be on topic: i'm going to sandblast, wetpaint and re-sticker my salty next year in spring. and i'm not going to put the stickers under paint, just because i like the possibility to replace them whenever i want
I completely agree. Everyone talks about the lateral stiffness of the rear. My Salty is very stiff and my Mojo SL without the Lopes Link is fairly flexy. However the wheel/tire flex WAY more than any rear triangle does. So the Ventana frame flexes none and the wheels are 25mm side to side....then the Mojo frame flexes 5mm and the wheel flexes 25mm. 30mm compared to 25mm is not that big of a difference.el saltamontes said:i know it's kinda off topic, but reading this thing here left a question on my mind:
lot of people talking about frame flex, soft tubing, imprecise steering and whatsoever. but how can they tell if either the frame, the wheels, tires (e.g. wide tires on a small rim) or anything else flexes without measuring it - just by riding it? i wonder how they can exclusively blame frame flex for any steering issues....
sorry for off topic again:
well, to be on topic: i'm going to sandblast, wetpaint and re-sticker my salty next year in spring. and i'm not going to put the stickers under paint, just because i like the possibility to replace them whenever i want
odnis, you got your bke from a dealer, right? so before spending any more bucks, i would just ask the dealer why he's sold you the wrong bike for your height! maybe you could get a little from there... i'm a long legged sixfooter like you and both of my ventanas are 19". and as ciclistagonzo mentioned, your fork is too short. you should be on a 501mm a2c fork instead of a 450mm like the reba (rough estimation, hope i'm not that far off...)
you could try the following:
1. loosen your stem cap and stem
2. pull out your fork
3. slide 5cm (or what the diff in a2c measurment really is between a 100mm and your 80mm reba) of headset spacers on your fork
4. put the fork back in your frame
5. without ANY load or riding, just by standing eg on your right leg (the one which feels safer) put your opposite leg in riding position (on the pedal) in the foremost crank position
6. toe-rub still there? bummer!
7. cut your toenails
8. try again...
9. if it works - change your forks to a 500mm a2c model (most 100mm forks will spec that)
10. if not you still could try to change your front triangle
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
