[FoShizzle]

I will start racing XC this year and will be using my Tracer (racing for fun more than anything else). I have actually never changed it from the 4" slack mode since after selling my 2000 S-Works, it climbed just as well for me in that mode so I saw no reason to change it. However, given I have a 4" Fox fork, what might be the best setup? Should I use the 3" and/or shorter chainstay? I will start experimenting but was wondering would made sense in general terms.

I doubt I will change any of the components/tires/etc. for racing since it will be for fun but figured changing the geometry wouldn't cost me anything.

Thanks in advance

 

[iride]

I will be racing a trcer also

I will start racing XC this year and will be using my Tracer (racing for fun more than anything else). I have actually never changed it from the 4" slack mode since after selling my 2000 S-Works, it climbed just as well for me in that mode so I saw no reason to change it. However, given I have a 4" Fox fork, what might be the best setup? Should I use the 3" and/or shorter chainstay? I will start experimenting but was wondering would made sense in general terms.

I doubt I will change any of the components/tires/etc. for racing since it will be for fun but figured changing the geometry wouldn't cost me anything.

Thanks in advance

I just sold my 2000 sworks fsr and picked up a tracer frame for racing and hard trail riding. I'm trying my xfly 80 first and see how it goes.I also have a xvert super 100. I'm a light rider so I don,t worry too much about travel. I could do most any thing on my s works but , with the higher b bracket it should be great. Update your experience as time goes by.

 

[yogreg]

I will start racing XC this year and will be using my Tracer (racing for fun more than anything else). I have actually never changed it from the 4" slack mode since after selling my 2000 S-Works, it climbed just as well for me in that mode so I saw no reason to change it. However, given I have a 4" Fox fork, what might be the best setup? Should I use the 3" and/or shorter chainstay? I will start experimenting but was wondering would made sense in general terms.

I doubt I will change any of the components/tires/etc. for racing since it will be for fun but figured changing the geometry wouldn't cost me anything.

Thanks in advance

I have raced on my Tracer quite a bit. What I did was to use a set of light wheels and tires. everything else stayed the same. If there was a lot of climbing on the course I switched to the shorter chainstays. That makes climbing quicker. But, also makes descending a bit "sketchier". I never used the 3 inch travel setting, just used a stiffer air setting in the Fox Float. I found the Tracer to be a great race bike,. I too have 4 inches of travel up front.
You should deffinately experiment with the different settings.

Greg

 

[[]D[][]v[][]D]

I agree with greg...no need to try the 3 inch setting. You may want to try the different chainstay settings. FInd a lighter 4" fork, a light wheelser and a light handlebar/stem combo and you'll have yourself a sweet race bike taht will excel on rougher, more technical courses. It will also make an ideal enduro/24 hr. type race bike

 

[Uncle_Mike]

Also completely agree with the last two. After years of experimenting, it stays in 4" slack with a X-Vert Super 105mm. I do change chainstay length based on race course as well as wheels and tires. Otherwise the bike keeps the geometry that I've become used to.

An interesting point though - when my Tracer was apart for repair I did several rides on my backup Fisher HT. Exciting to get back on the Tracer, particularly when it would eject me over the bars for seemly little reason. Thus, I try to stick to the same headtube angle.

Experiment, find the setup that best compliments your style and stick with it. Increasing spring rate in the 4" mode may also be an option for you in certain events.

 

[jrm]

I will start racing XC this year and will be using my Tracer (racing for fun more than anything else). I have actually never changed it from the 4" slack mode since after selling my 2000 S-Works, it climbed just as well for me in that mode so I saw no reason to change it. However, given I have a 4" Fox fork, what might be the best setup? Should I use the 3" and/or shorter chainstay? I will start experimenting but was wondering would made sense in general terms.

I doubt I will change any of the components/tires/etc. for racing since it will be for fun but figured changing the geometry wouldn't cost me anything.

Thanks in advance

If its comfortable enoughj to be raced on the way its set up now stick to it. If you wanted to you could reduce the fork travel in order to drop the front end a bit. I for one have kept my tracer in the 4" slack and long stays mode since i bought.

 

[Manny Omega]

PIMP, Uncle_Mike, & yogreg nailed it!

Switch to lighter (stiffer) hoops & rubber (& tubes if you use 'em) and you'll definately save your legs... Lighter spinning [centrifical] force.
The bars & stem make a difference for racing steering, so pick out a lightweight pair, if that's what suits your objective.

Like most of the guys advised you: experiment with bike settings on your current Tracer setup to know what suits you best.

M. Omega

 

[bellullabob]

try the 3' setting for racing...

I race my tracer as well.

One of the differences I have really noticed between the 3 and 4 inch setting is that I get more pedal "bob" in the 4 inch than the 3, which makes sense since the 4 inch setting has a higher leverage ratio.

I therefor "putz" around in the 4 and race in the 3...(Manitou is soo back ordered, they won't have my swinger 3 way available until the end of May!!!)