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Single(Pivot)and Happy
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Titus never had a Motolite manual. When I find myself in a similar situation, I tighten all hardware without excessive force and then add 1/4-1/2 turn for insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So the reason I'm asking is that a local Craigslist seller has a Motolite on sale here that is in excellent shape (hardly ridden and the paint looks really clean) with a new-ish X-fusion Velvet RL2 fork, SRAM X-0, XTR wheels, etc. for $1K. Question I have for you guys is if the bike is still relevant today and how long does the suspension pivot bushings and bearings last on these bikes.hough

Any thoughts from the peanut gallery on this bike? =)
 

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From what I recall, I think I replaced the lower eye bushing on my shock in about 1200 miles but this was a used frame. No idea how many miles the original owner put on it. Never had any slop in the frame bushings. Sold the bike before frame bushings needed replaced though (stupid).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
From what I recall, I think I replaced the lower eye bushing on my shock in about 1200 miles but this was a used frame. No idea how many miles the original owner put on it. Never had any slop in the frame bushings. Sold the bike before frame bushings needed replaced though (stupid).
Do you think the Motolite would compare to new bike "standards" today for trail riding? From my research, the geometry was pretty forward thinking back then with the long TTs for given size. They're not as "swoopy" as new bikes but there's a certain industrial aesthetic to the design that's very appealing.
 

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So the reason I'm asking is that a local Craigslist seller has a Motolite on sale here that is in excellent shape (hardly ridden and the paint looks really clean) with a new-ish X-fusion Velvet RL2 fork, SRAM X-0, XTR wheels, etc. for $1K. Question I have for you guys is if the bike is still relevant today and how long does the suspension pivot bushings and bearings last on these bikes.hough

Any thoughts from the peanut gallery on this bike? =)
You can get the bearings from enduro bearings and the HL bushings last forever.

The motolite is really plush with poor anti-squat numbers. Best to use it with a shock with a good deal of platform.

Personally, I would not pay $1000 for it. If you had to get a 26 bike, I would buy a Turner - which can be had for $1000 easy. Most I would pay would be ~$400.
 

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Not sure I’d compare it to modern geo bike but the ETT was a little long. I do remember that with a 100mm fork is was more XC and with a 120mm fork it was a good trail bike. Anything over 120 and the front got light and wandry on climbs.
 

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Not sure I'd compare it to modern geo bike but the ETT was a little long. I do remember that with a 100mm fork is was more XC and with a 120mm fork it was a good trail bike. Anything over 120 and the front got light and wandry on climbs.
Yeah, and the reported geometry was a little different with a 69 head angle and a ~72 seat angle with a 130 mm fork. But I noticed huge variation from bike to bike. My 2007, made in Taiwan bike, was closer to 71 and 74.5 while a friends bike (also 2007) was 68/72. Both with Talas forks set at 140. Mine was a large and his was a medium.
 

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Yeah, and the reported geometry was a little different with a 69 head angle and a ~72 seat angle with a 130 mm fork. But I noticed huge variation from bike to bike. My 2007, made in Taiwan bike, was closer to 71 and 74.5 while a friends bike (also 2007) was 68/72. Both with Talas forks set at 140. Mine was a large and his was a medium.
Now that you reminded me, I was off by 20mm on my numbers.

OP, at 140mm it got light in the front end and at 120mm felt well planted. I think I ran mine at 120 and was happy. I also ran with my Propedal at #2 most of the time. I don't like a mushy rear suspension.
 

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Now that you reminded me, I was off by 20mm on my numbers.

OP, at 140mm it got light in the front end and at 120mm felt well planted. I think I ran mine at 120 and was happy. I also ran with my Propedal at #2 most of the time. I don't like a mushy rear suspension.
I ran mine with up to a 160 mm fork and it felt fine. Light on climbs but not much different than at 140. I agree, the bike felt the best with a 120mm fork and a pushed shock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, and the reported geometry was a little different with a 69 head angle and a ~72 seat angle with a 130 mm fork. But I noticed huge variation from bike to bike. My 2007, made in Taiwan bike, was closer to 71 and 74.5 while a friends bike (also 2007) was 68/72. Both with Talas forks set at 140. Mine was a large and his was a medium.
Thanks Vespasianus and mnigro! Yeah, I'm reading through all the old Motolite threads and the feedback on geometry and suspension was all over the place. A lot of it I believe has to do with geometry differences and shock lengths between the XS and S frames versus the larger frame sizes. The XS and S frames had steeper HTA and STA for a given fork travel than the others in addition to a shorter stroke length so it was really hard to get consistent feedback on a particular size and fork length. Anyway, the frame I'm interested in is a size S.

By the way, are the maintenance and setup documents for the Motolite out there? I found old HTMLs for the Racer-X so it should be similar but would like to see one for the Moto.
 

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I don't think I got much of any set-up document when I purchased my Motolite. Just used 25% sag and went. The bearings I had done at a shop but honestly, they are pretty robust.

If I remember correctly, the small size used a shorter shock as well and actually got less travel then the 127mm that was claimed. Titus admitted this when the FTM was released and they made a big deal about how all sizes now got 5" of travel.

The guy that knows a lot about those old Titus's is Bikerbob. I have not seen him post on these boards for years but you might still be able to find him on bikerbob.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don't think I got much of any set-up document when I purchased my Motolite. Just used 25% sag and went. The bearings I had done at a shop but honestly, they are pretty robust.

If I remember correctly, the small size used a shorter shock as well and actually got less travel then the 127mm that was claimed. Titus admitted this when the FTM was released and they made a big deal about how all sizes now got 5" of travel.

The guy that knows a lot about those old Titus's is Bikerbob. I have not seen him post on these boards for years but you might still be able to find him on bikerbob.com
Thanks! I wonder if he's still in business as his website is showing he has Titus frames still for sale. =)
 

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I'm still riding my 2006 Titus Motolite small frame but I changed the shock from Fox RP 23 to RS Monarch RT3 and that was a great upgrade for me. I could never set up rp 23 to work for me - I weigh 195lbs and with gear probably 230lbs. Up front I have a Fox Talas that I usually ride in the 120mm setting, I've also ridden with a Manitou Minute Super 120mm fork and was pretty happy with how it worked. Talas has a lock out and essentially so does RT3 so that let's me lock it all out on smooth climbs. Since buying the frame in 2007, I've had to replace the bushings once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm still riding my 2006 Titus Motolite small frame but I changed the shock from Fox RP 23 to RS Monarch RT3 and that was a great upgrade for me. I could never set up rp 23 to work for me - I weigh 195lbs and with gear probably 230lbs. Up front I have a Fox Talas that I usually ride in the 120mm setting, I've also ridden with a Manitou Minute Super 120mm fork and was pretty happy with how it worked. Talas has a lock out and essentially so does RT3 so that let's me lock it all out on smooth climbs. Since buying the frame in 2007, I've had to replace the bushings once.
That's great to hear. Any issues with getting the full 5" travel with your setup? I'm looking at a size S as well. Any need to update to "modern" specs and geometry or are you still happy with the Motolite?
 

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That's great to hear. Any issues with getting the full 5" travel with your setup? I'm looking at a size S as well. Any need to update to "modern" specs and geometry or are you still happy with the Motolite?
I know what you're trying to figure out, I get it... just went though the same conundrum when the rear swingarm on my 26er cracked. In the end I did buy the crash replacement part for a cost of $600 installed. There wasn't much else I could do with old 9 speed components and 26" wheels with 2 new spare tires. Instead of trash what felt like a few hundred bucks worth of parts, I decided to pony up the $600 and try to get a few more years out of the bike.

Motolite or not, The internal debate you need to have should go like this:
1. If I buy this bike and the frame cracks, what are my options to replace it? Pretty much zero in 26" options. Titus is gone so no crash replacements that I'm aware of.
2. If I buy the bike and don't like it, can I sell it? Yeah but it'll be a long wait.

If you're comfortable with these answers then keep pursuing the bike. If not, I'd say move on and try to find something else with better answers to these questions.
 
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