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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Getting my new wheelset today.

Installing XTR cassette.

Should I put grease on the splines of the hub before assembly?

Should I put blue thread locker on the cassette nut?

How snug should the bearings and new skewers be? Normal or cause they're new, slightly tighter than normal?

I'm hoping to easily swap out both new and old wheel sets in a moments notice. Will I have to adj rear derailer each time?

Any other new wheel/cassette tips to watch for? thanks
 

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Mashers Only!!
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578 Posts
Destroy said:
Getting my new wheelset today.

Installing XTR cassette.

Should I put grease on the splines of the hub before assembly?

Should I put blue thread locker on the cassette nut?

How snug should the bearings and new skewers be? Normal or cause they're new, slightly tighter than normal?

I'm hoping to easily swap out both new and old wheel sets in a moments notice. Will I have to adj rear derailer each time?

Any other new wheel/cassette tips to watch for? thanks
I'm a single speeder but I have a geerie that collects dust and looks cool hanging up!!
No grese on the splines.
No thread lock on the cassette lock nut.
As far as the bearings... What hubs?
Skewers.... Normal
On my road bike when I swap rear wheels I just readjust the rear derailer. Its simple and the shifting is always spot on.
The only other tips I could give ya is ditch the gears and go single!! (did I just say that out loud!!??:eekster: )

HUGH
:)
 

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Too busy looking good
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361 Posts
Destroy said:
Getting my new wheelset today.

Installing XTR cassette.

Should I put grease on the splines of the hub before assembly?

Should I put blue thread locker on the cassette nut?

How snug should the bearings and new skewers be? Normal or cause they're new, slightly tighter than normal?

I'm hoping to easily swap out both new and old wheel sets in a moments notice. Will I have to adj rear derailer each time?

Any other new wheel/cassette tips to watch for? thanks
-> Yes to the grease on the splines, use a light layer, no need to overdo it.

-> No to the threadlocker, it's overkill. You'll have no problems if you use a torque wrench and the proper torque (I think 40 Nm is typical, should be stamped on the lock ring)

-> Bearing play should be normal, just check after each ride and be prepared to readjust while the wheels break in.

-> I swap all the time on my bike between a set of Crossmax XLs and Crossmax SLs, I don't have to adjust my derailer. It works for me because the wheels are geometrically identical. But if your wheels aren't dished the same, or they use different hubs, it's likely you would have to adjust your derailer.

If you decide to start switching wheelsets frequently, having two cassettes, one for each wheel, is nice because there is less work to do.
 

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Old man on a bike
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But if your wheels aren't dished the same

The dish of the wheel wouldn't make any difference except maybe if you ran rim brakes.

So there's a grease the freehub body and don't grease the freehub body split so far. Personally I don't, but I know some that do. I guess it might be possible for some galling to occur between the freehub body and cassette/cogs, but I don't think it's much to worry about.
 
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