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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to rebuild my Manitou 2 forks (as I'm rebuilding my entire bike), and I plan on ordering elastomers. After disassembly, I noticed that both fork legs have melted elastomers in the bottom of them. They have solidified, so I can't easily get them out. Should I try heating them up with a hair dryer or something to see if i can get the remaining elastomers to melt? Anyone else have any ideas or tips on how to go about rebuilding these?
 

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After dealing with the same fork with liquified elastomer, you are probably better off finding a way to get it out while still solid. I spent some serious hours getting all the gooey crap out of the legs.

Maybe try taking a long lag screw with some deep threads, screw it into the elastomer mass and pull it out as one piece.
 

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I hope you have the long allen wrench to take off the lowers.
Hahaha, no doubt. I actually find a couple of extensions and an allen head socket works better for gettin the screw back in.
Use the long wench or screw driver to get out as much as possible. I've use paint brush cleaner to dissolve what's left with good results.
When you're putting it back together, consider how far the bolt must pass throu the elastomers. Feel the bolt going throu the stack of 'em and bottom out at the threads . Then push down on the fork to compress some and turn screw backward to seat it then apply pressure to it as you turn it in.
If your headtube is 1 1/8 maybe consider an upgrade before you spend the time and 50+ bucks on elastomers..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hahaha, no doubt. I actually find a couple of extensions and an allen head socket works better for gettin the screw back in.
Use the long wench or screw driver to get out as much as possible. I've use paint brush cleaner to dissolve what's left with good results.
When you're putting it back together, consider how far the bolt must pass throu the elastomers. Feel the bolt going throu the stack of 'em and bottom out at the threads . Then push down on the fork to compress some and turn screw backward to seat it then apply pressure to it as you turn it in.
If your headtube is 1 1/8 maybe consider an upgrade before you spend the time and 50+ bucks on elastomers..
Unfortunately I think my head tube is 1". Any way to tell? I have some calipers, should I measure the inside of the head tube? (not sure if I can because the bearing cups are still installed).
 

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Klunker Kev`
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Unfortunately I think my head tube is 1". Any way to tell? I have some calipers, should I measure the inside of the head tube? (not sure if I can because the bearing cups are still installed).
Measure the steerer tube on the fork you took off...
 

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Unfortunately I think my head tube is 1". Any way to tell? I have some calipers, should I measure the inside of the head tube? (not sure if I can because the bearing cups are still installed).
Yup, measuring the steerer, or finding size on the stem will tell you just that, but if you don't know if a reducing headset was used to make that 1" fork to fit a 1 1/8 headtube? What's the year/make/model of frame?

If it is a 1" headtube you can search ebay or whatever for a mag 20 or even better a mag21. IMO that's your best vintage fork option if you want front suspension.

BTW, never use any petroleum products on elastomers, only synthetic.

Another BTW... since that Manitou has no adjustment to speak of, or a lock-out feature, and minumal travel, I'd recommend going stiffer with the rebuild so it still takes the edge off bigger hits but doesn't bottom out alot or cause too much pedal bob. My .02
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yup, measuring the steerer, or finding size on the stem will tell you just that, but if you don't know if a reducing headset was used to make that 1" fork to fit a 1 1/8 headtube? What's the year/make/model of frame?

If it is a 1" headtube you can search ebay or whatever for a mag 20 or even better a mag21. IMO that's your best vintage fork option if you want front suspension.

BTW, never use any petroleum products on elastomers, only synthetic.

Another BTW... since that Manitou has no adjustment to speak of, or a lock-out feature, and minumal travel, I'd recommend going stiffer with the rebuild so it still takes the edge off bigger hits but doesn't bottom out alot or cause too much pedal bob. My .02
Yes, I was curious if a reducing headset was used. My frame is around '94, so I think it could be either/or because when I first bought the bike it had a 1" head tube so I installed the 1" Manitou. About a year 1/2 later Specialized replaced it with a new frame (went from steel to aluminum), so I'm unsure if the new frame had a 1" head tube or not.

I was looking on eBay for a Mag 20 or 21, very thin pickings. Any recommendations for sources of vintage parts?
 

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a 94' what? serial #, pic, color ?
First Flight Bicycles - Statesville, NC Your full service local bike shop. comes to mind. Also on craigslist, ebay, whatever, expand search to include description, not only title. Sometimes you can find a whole bike with that fork for less than just the fork on some adds. Put ebay as your homepage so you can quickly check each session straight away.
LBSs and networking can bring good leads too.
If you rebuild it stiff, it's sorta like having a rigid but with a some "shock", a little added weight, and more flex. I've got that going on on 1 of my bikes and like it. That's my take anyway. I tried softer, and also recommended weight rebuild and feel if that spongy maybe 1-1/2" of travel's all you get, I'd rather not have it.
 

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.....I've got that going on on 1 of my bikes and like it. That's my take anyway. I tried softer, and also recommended weight rebuild and feel if that spongy maybe 1-1/2" of travel's all you get, I'd rather not have it.

What did you use for your elastomers replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
a 94' what? serial #, pic, color ?
First Flight Bicycles - Statesville, NC Your full service local bike shop. comes to mind. Also on craigslist, ebay, whatever, expand search to include description, not only title. Sometimes you can find a whole bike with that fork for less than just the fork on some adds. Put ebay as your homepage so you can quickly check each session straight away.
LBSs and networking can bring good leads too.
If you rebuild it stiff, it's sorta like having a rigid but with a some "shock", a little added weight, and more flex. I've got that going on on 1 of my bikes and like it. That's my take anyway. I tried softer, and also recommended weight rebuild and feel if that spongy maybe 1-1/2" of travel's all you get, I'd rather not have it.
Sorry for the lack of detail. It's a '94 Stumpjumper M2 with an aluminum frame. I think this is it since the SN on the frame starts with 94S (unless they put the SN for my old frame on the new frame?) BikePedia - 1994 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Complete Bicycle
 

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Ya know, I'm totally going off memory here but think Stumpies where 1 1/8 way down to like 92' ? I know my 95' is. Somebody on here knows for sure, for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ya know, I'm totally going off memory here but think Stumpies where 1 1/8 way down to like 92' ? I know my 95' is. Somebody on here knows for sure, for sure.
I really wish it was a 1 1/8" head tube. I'd measure it, but the bearing cups prevent me from getting any calipers inside the head tube.
 

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If it's a threaded fork (which I assume), the stem will have a quill (the slanted bit that pushes into the steerer tube). If it were threadless, there would be steerer sticking up above the head tube you could measure.
 
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