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Niner EMD
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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys,
I just completed a MUDDY race (in which my NRS performed flawlessly) and I want to clean and regrease my rear bushings. How do I remove the bushings for cleaning? I tried to unscrew the bolt and couldnt really figure out how to remove the contents.
Basically, and I know this is a lot to ask, can someone give me a step by step on how to do this?
Also, what can I (should I) do with the bearing cartridge at the ST/CS pivot?
Thanks in advance for the help!
g
 

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Lube is not recommended

nygeo said:
hi guys,
I just completed a MUDDY race (in which my NRS performed flawlessly) and I want to clean and regrease my rear bushings. How do I remove the bushings for cleaning? I tried to unscrew the bolt and couldnt really figure out how to remove the contents.
Basically, and I know this is a lot to ask, can someone give me a step by step on how to do this?
Also, what can I (should I) do with the bearing cartridge at the ST/CS pivot?
Thanks in advance for the help!
g
Removing the dropout pivot bolts shouldn't be difficult. Loosen them with a metric hex allen wrench (I think it's 5mm). You may have to grab the bolt with your fingers and PULL after it's completely loose, because there can be some stiction that prents it from coming out. Wiggle it while turning at that point. Once both sides have the pivot bolts removed, the seatstay shpould easily separate fromt he chainstay.

The spacer sleeves are anodized aluminum. You are correct in wanting to clean these if they get grit inside. Also the 4 polymer falnge bushings should be wiped clean. These provide their own lubricity. Adding lube (oil or grease) a.k.a "dirt attractant", is an ivitation to accelerated wear.

Once the anodized aluminum spacer sleeve gets worn (the dark surface weears off, and exposes aluminum) the bushings will deteriorate as well. At this point you must replace them all.

The rest of the pivot points are cartridge ball bearingm, and they should be fine for at least a year. They are sealed with rubber seals, and do a good job of keeping dirt out. I have experience more problems with the lubricant running dry than with dirt intrusion on the bearings.

Replacing all the bearings and flange bushings is about a 1 hour job. If you just replace the flange bushings and spacer sleeves it takes a whopping 15 minutes (or less).

Hopefully, yours are not worn out yet. GIANT has had problems supplying these parts in the recent past. I do not know if this has been resolved yet. It is why I have built up a large inventory of replacement bearings, and polymer bushings. If you are unable to get them from your LBS in a timely manner, I sell FULL replacement kits, including the 6 cartridge bearings , 4 polymer flange bushings, and 2 spacer sleeves for less than $40 shipped. I am getting a new supply of spacer sleeves Thursday (8-5-04) , and will have enough for 22 full kits. I have an ad in the classifieds of MTBR.

Most recently I have sold 10 full kits and 2 partials (dropout kits, no bearings).
 

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Kit Picture

nygeo said:
hi guys,
I just completed a MUDDY race (in which my NRS performed flawlessly) and I want to clean and regrease my rear bushings. How do I remove the bushings for cleaning? I tried to unscrew the bolt and couldnt really figure out how to remove the contents.
Basically, and I know this is a lot to ask, can someone give me a step by step on how to do this?
Also, what can I (should I) do with the bearing cartridge at the ST/CS pivot?
Thanks in advance for the help!
g
Contents of a full kit as shown. I also provide a full manual with over 50 color pictures. 4.7MEG Windows .doc file.
 

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Niner EMD
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Is that for the '03 NRS? I didnt know there were that many bearings...thought it was mostly bushings. Are the OEM ones sealed? How is this set superior (is it?) to the OEM option?
Thanks for the tips and responses,
G
 

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mtbr remember
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I just won one of these sets from you on ebay recently, haven't recieved it yet because I am on vacation. Hopefullly ups doesn;t ship it back to the sender since I am not there to recieve it.
 

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I assume this kit works with all NRS models as it looks like that is an 01' model in the picture. How long are you going to be selling these kits? May try and pick one up next few months if the local bike shop can't supply with me one. Was thinking of doing a rebuild this winter on my 02 NRS2 when it gets really cold and nasty outside. I will check out your classifieds. Thanks for the info.
 

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Fits '01-'03, '04 is different ( I think)

nygeo said:
Is that for the '03 NRS? I didnt know there were that many bearings...thought it was mostly bushings. Are the OEM ones sealed? How is this set superior (is it?) to the OEM option?
Thanks for the tips and responses,
G
MTBR Classified Ad: GIANT NRS Bearing/Bushing Kits

http://marketplace.consumerreview.c...sults_format=long&db_id=74300&query=retrieval

The 2004 NRS went to all catridge bearings in the dropout (horst) pivots, eliminating the old style polymer bushings and spacer sleeve. This info is according to an MTBR member, I haven't had the opportunity to see a 2004 frame to verify it yet. BUTmy understanding is that it isn't a retrofit. The earlier frames can't be converted to full cartridge bearing at the dropout pivot.

From at least 2001 (the frame in the picture) to 2003, GIANT uses 2 polymer flange bushings and a spacer sleeve inside each dropout pivot. The rest of the pivot points are cartridge type ball bearings, the 4 pivots in the shock rocker linkage, and the 2 in the main bottom bracket pivot, 6 altogether.

The OEM cartridge bearings are sealed, to help keep moisture and dirt from entering the bearing. Mine lasted almost 18 months before the majority of them dried out. A few of them became gritty and needed to be replaced because of this.

But the dropout pivots were a different story. I ride in areas where there is glacial sand, very fine sand almost like a powder. It worked it;s way into the dropout pivots, adn wore off the anodized coating on the spacer sleeves, then wore out a some fairly deep grooves into the spacer sleeves. It was enough to cause my disc brake to rub every firm pedal stroke. This is when I started investigating the cause.

I tried to get replacements from several local (if 25 miles is local) GIANT bike shops. Not a shop carried these wear items! And when I tried to order, they were an out of stock backordered item from GIANT. 6-8 weeks backorder. That was about the end of May/early June. They were $45 from GIANT for a set of dropout pivot kits only. The GIANT kit includes the pivot bolts too. My kits do NOT. The pivot bolt in the horst link is a non-wear item. The spacer sleeve does not rotate on the bolt. The seatstay, with it's 4 polymer flange bushings, rotate over the spacer sleeve, which is bolted inside the chainstay. The only wear items are the spacer sleeve and the flange bushings in the Horst link/dropoout pivot.

The spacer sleeve in my kits is a hardened and ground steel precision sleeve. They are MUCH harder than the OEM aluminum sleeve. Lubricant is not required or neccessary at he dropout pivots. The polymer flange bushings have their own lubricity. Once the flange bushings or spacer sleeve are worn, the pivot develops lateral (side to side) free play, and the rear suspension can then twist. This causes a multitude of problems, least of which is noise. Ghost shifting, disc brake rub, tire rub inside the chainstay (left side predominantly), and increased drive line wear.

This link is to my latest completed auctions. TODAY (Thursday) I should be getting more spacer sleeves. These are hard to get. And they are expensive relative to the bearings in the kit. I'm supposed to be getting a quote from a manufacturing company today as well. They are quoting me on 1000 spacer sleeves, which will be identical to the GIANT OEM sleeves, although I'm iquiring about a harder coating than the current surface anodization.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3690225733&ssPageName=STRK:MESO:IT

Like I said, check your LBS to see if the kits are available. If for some reason you damage the pivot bolt (strip out the hex wrench socket, or cross thread the bolt) you would have to get that from GIANT, it's a unique shoulder bolt. If you are carefull removeing and replacing those bolts, they will never wear.
 

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Niner EMD
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Discussion Starter #8
I just did the removal and cleaning of the bushings at the dropout pivot. It was NOT easy! I found it quite hard to get the bushings out of the socket. It was also hard to get them back in! Once I had everything lined up...I had a MAJOR scare where I ALMOST cross-threaded the bolt. I turned it about 1/4 turn into the frame threads and realized it wasn't going in properly. When I unscrewed them and looked indeed I had crushed a very small amount of thread on the frame! Well...I made SURE I got it in properly but it was extremely scary and hard to do this...and I am a pretty competent mechanical person. All things went ok and everything is clean and reassembled properly.
Anyway....WHY ARE THESE BUSHINGS?!?!?! Why not bearings all around???
 

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Because....It's a GIANT

nygeo said:
I just did the removal and cleaning of the bushings at the dropout pivot. It was NOT easy! I found it quite hard to get the bushings out of the socket. It was also hard to get them back in! Once I had everything lined up...I had a MAJOR scare where I ALMOST cross-threaded the bolt. I turned it about 1/4 turn into the frame threads and realized it wasn't going in properly. When I unscrewed them and looked indeed I had crushed a very small amount of thread on the frame! Well...I made SURE I got it in properly but it was extremely scary and hard to do this...and I am a pretty competent mechanical person. All things went ok and everything is clean and reassembled properly.
Anyway....WHY ARE THESE BUSHINGS?!?!?! Why not bearings all around???
It was a cheaper way of making the suspension pivot. Else they would have had to make counterbored hole for bearings instead of a 16mm through hole in the seatstay. Cheaper to machine a through hole.

AS far as taking them out what did you use? I use a small screwdriver to pry up the edges of the polymer flange bushings. Very simple and effective. The spacer sleeves usually fall out on their own.

It's good that you didn't cross thread the frame. I push the pivot bolt all the way in, then when it makes contact witht he threaded side of the chainstay, start slowly screwing it in. Hasn't failed me yet.

Gaint must have heard enough customers complaining about the lack of all bearings and made a change in their most recent frames. Early Specialized stumpjumpers and FSR XC frames also had polymer bushings in the rear pivots. Some frame manufacturers used Polymer bushings in MANY of the pivot points. They are pretty durable and long lasting if they are maintained regularly.
 
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