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Again, if it’s a Fit4 I would really think twice before installing it.

The Grip and Fit4 dampeners are different animals. Before I pulled my Fox Factory 34 with a Fit4 I was looking at swapping to the Grip 2 dampener and upgrading the air spring with a Luftkappe. So $450-$500 in parts to fix a $900 fork?

No thanks.
It's Grip Performance series and I paid $500 new, so it's decent value. It's a mid-level Fox but it has to be better than the Recon turd that's on it now. I'm sure a DVO or Pike Ultimate would best the Fox but I didn't want to shell out double what I paid. I'll see how it goes. If I don't like the Fox, I can throw it on my son's bike.
 

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29ers Forever
2021 Rocky Mountain Altitude A70
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It's Grip Performance series and I paid $500 new, so it's decent value. It's a mid-level Fox but it has to be better than the Recon turd that's on it now. I'm sure a DVO or Pike Ultimate would best the Fox but I didn't want to shell out double what I paid. I'll see how it goes. If I don't like the Fox, I can throw it on my son's bike.
The 34 will be 1000% better and more tunable than the Recon. The Recon is probably the worst fork to be sold on new bikes today, its value is poor, and unfortunately Salsa cares more about drivetrain spec than suspension.
$500 is a great price for a new 34, so don't let the Fox haters dissuade you from trying it out. It will make your TJ feel much more capable and responsive.
 

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It's Grip Performance series and I paid $500 new, so it's decent value. It's a mid-level Fox but it has to be better than the Recon turd that's on it now. I'm sure a DVO or Pike Ultimate would best the Fox but I didn't want to shell out double what I paid. I'll see how it goes. If I don't like the Fox, I can throw it on my son's bike.
Where did you find a fox 34 for $500 new? is it a take off?
 

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Ibis Ripley V4
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For $500, you’ll definitely like it more than the Recon. The standard Grip is better than the Fit4 IMO.

I was simply hoping you didn’t drop $900 on a Fit4 based 34. Because for that money, I feel that you can do A LOT better.

So yes, I cautioned that before he installs it to make sure it’s really the fork he would be looking for. As many of us know, you install it, you own it.
 

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Here it is with the Fox Perf 34. Just installed it tonight. The fork has stealth black graphics which I may swap to orange for obvious reasons in the future. It's exactly 1/2 lb lighter than the Recon but I haven't got any ride comparison in, or fiddled with the rebound. Measured stanchion is 5.5", which is a plus, and longer than the 130mm advertised.

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Nice find... I think you will be happy with it. Can't beat it for $500 IMO. It's a 130mm travel fork though. Fox makes them only in 10mm increments
 

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What are the largest 29" tires has anyone fitted with the alternator plates fully pushed in? My 2.6 Trail Boss's seem a little tight, but I was thinking of putting a 2.4 Dissector on the rear so that I could make it short again with comfortable clearance. Also, has anyone run a SunRace 11-50T on the stock chain length?
 

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Ibis Ripley V4
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I’ve run the 2.4 Dissector on the back of my TJ. The plates were not fully pushed in, but pretty close to it and there was plenty of room.

The rims were 30.5mm internal width I9 Enduro 305’s.
 

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I picked up a 2020 Timberjack XT on the weekend, and just noticed this today... what is this screw for, and should I be concerned that it appears to have bit into the aluminum during assembly?

1910073

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Ibis Ripley V4
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Nothing to worry about.

It’s the set screw for one of the alternator plates.
Screw them in to push the plates out and make the chainstays longer, screw them in to do the opposite.
 

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Looks like you are correct. I downloaded the alternator dropout instructions from the Salsa website and I see them listed as tension screws. This seems like a lackluster design though... set screws directly onto the aluminium frame? Were these just really overtightened, or are they actually intended to sit like this?
 

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The big bolts hold the tension when they are tight. These are just to adjust the alignment (or chainstay length if you prefer to think of it that way) before you cinch up the bolts... just like in an old 10-speed. Someone might have cranked on this one a bit while one or both of the bolts were tight. Check if the screw got bent.
 

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Yeah, its somewhat janky IMHO. I honestly think they should have drilled 3 set points for short/med/long to keep as much material in the eyelets. They can be easy You may have to adjust to fit certain tire/wheel combos. I dont think infinite adjustability is necessary. They aren't supposed to be tite tite tite as Tuco. The Ti frame got a landing pad.

You can actually remove them for safe keeping once everything is tight. I keep mine on because I worry that the plates will move, but its stayed put in the middle of the eyelets, and I'm a very heavy rider.
 

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It’s the set screw for one of the alternator plates.
Screw them in to push the plates out and make the chainstays longer, screw them in to do the opposite.
Can anyone confirm, is this all that’s needed to be done to adjust the chain stays to be longer with the alternator dropout? I’m moving to an area with bigger terrain soon and am interested in playing with the alternator to set them all the way back, but won’t that require additional adjustments such as lengthening the chain to accommodate?
 

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I didn't have to modify the chain in either case. I'm curious if there is enough play for a 50T Sunrace cog on my 11sp, but you already have the 12sp 11-51 right?

You loosen both sides just enough to let the plates move, and then I believe set the drive side with the screw, tighten the alt plate bolts and use the non-drive side to center the wheel. I don't think the eyelets are 100% symmetrical and small changes will move the wheel a bit. Tighten the ND side and if everything is good, you're supposed to loosen and then lightly snug them down so they dont fall off sine they dont hold anything.

Setup and instructions are at 2020 Timberjack XT 29 | Salsa Cycles.

What do you think of the OEM hubs/wheels? I havent put my hands on a set of the newer Shimanos with their weird ratchet ring. The ones on my slx build came with serra hubs which are just junk. WTB kindly sent me two replacement freehubs and both have the same oscillation issue (I have a Tiagra Warbird that has the same hubs as the TJ).
 

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Can anyone confirm, is this all that’s needed to be done to adjust the chain stays to be longer with the alternator dropout? I’m moving to an area with bigger terrain soon and am interested in playing with the alternator to set them all the way back, but won’t that require additional adjustments such as lengthening the chain to accommodate?
you also need to loosen up the top and bottom bolt, but yes. Should not have to install a longer chain, but run through the shifting in the workstand to verify
 

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I didn't have to modify the chain in either case. I'm curious if there is enough play for a 50T Sunrace cog on my 11sp, but you already have the 12sp 11-51 right?

You loosen both sides just enough to let the plates move, and then I believe set the drive side with the screw, tighten the alt plate bolts and use the non-drive side to center the wheel. I don't think the eyelets are 100% symmetrical and small changes will move the wheel a bit. Tighten the ND side and if everything is good, you're supposed to loosen and then lightly snug them down so they dont fall off sine they dont hold anything.

Setup and instructions are at 2020 Timberjack XT 29 | Salsa Cycles.

What do you think of the OEM hubs/wheels? I havent put my hands on a set of the newer Shimanos with their weird ratchet ring. The ones on my slx build came with serra hubs which are just junk. WTB kindly sent me two replacement freehubs and both have the same oscillation issue (I have a Tiagra Warbird that has the same hubs as the TJ).
OEM Serra hubs are the worst I’ve ever experienced. The bearings are cup and cone inside the freehub, and pretty much non-serviceable. Mine went south about 3-4 months on them with infrequent riding. The Shimanos have to be better.


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Hey TJ Users!,

New here.. and New Timberjack 2020 XT (size: Medium) owner.. got it today for what I think was great deal considering it was nearly new.. or at least like it wasn't ridden much at all.. Needed to hit the trail on the way home from buying it..

So far so good.. Lots of fun, I have lots to learn as I am roadie/ gravel rider at heart.. I almost flipped backwards climbing some steep stuff, but all in good fun..

Here she is.. Not sure what Mods I"ll do to it as I get better.. But first and for most the long 175mm Crank needs to go.. Pedal strikes galore in the rocky Central East cost here.. I ride 165mm on the road so not sure if I want to go with the same or even shorter..


Anyway, hope the picture uploads...

1910932
 
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