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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the other week I went to drop my seatpost a bit (riding the pump track at Rays MKE) and it was hard to go down, so I put my body weight on it and it dropped a bit but not much, went back to riding.

Fast forward to this past weekend and I thought I should pull it out and see whats going on.

It's stuck, I can turn it side to side with MUCH effort, about 30 degrees but not all the way. It makes a horrendous screatching noise when I do get it to turn.

So far I have sprayed from the bottom bracket into the seat tube a variety of lubes, oils and WD40 with the bike upside down. I was afraid of ruining my seat so I took it off, the post is an Ericksen setback so I removed the post hardware and the handle to my pedal wrench fits thru the hole and used that for some extra leverage. I was able to move it back and forth a few times but now it seams more stuck than before.

So after all that I think I have a briused rib & hernia and still a stuck seatpost. I do not want tor ruin the frame (2 year old Gunnar Ruffian) or my Ericksen seatpost.

Any sugestions, ideas ect..??? Help much apreciated.
 

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I have had a couple of ti posts get stuck in the past- ruined a great Syncros post ihad for years in a Yeti getting it out (worst of all the 3 posts I have had stuck).

Try pouring coca cola down the seat tube from the BB and let that soak- I heard this rememdy from a top mech and worked on one of the posts that I had gotten stuck. I followed up the soaking with WD 40 and a little elbow grease and I was golden. Not sure if the coke was a placebo but it did work. Results may vary.

Other option is heat- but start with the soaking for a couple of days before going the heat route.
 

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I had an Alum post stuck in a steal frame once. I tried penetrating oil several times. Bend the rails on a saddle. Removing the seat clamp and inserting a screw driver through the post hole. Finally tried a plumbers wrench to no avail. I gave up on the plumbers wrench in fear of bending the frame trying to gain leverage. Plus I really didnt need a hyrnia :eekster: Three weeks and a very patient kid at a LBS later the post was out. He had to wrap a hack saw blade and slowly slice it in two spots. The Fat Chance frame was more valuable to me than the faded ano purple Ringle post.

Ti might be far harder to cut like that than alum though.

Needless to say, now I check and lube my post often, very often.

Good luck, sounds like either the frame or the post might not survive.
 

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I think heat would cause it to get larger?

grouan said:
I have had a couple of ti posts get stuck in the past- ruined a great Syncros post ihad for years in a Yeti getting it out (worst of all the 3 posts I have had stuck).

Try pouring coca cola down the seat tube from the BB and let that soak- I heard this rememdy from a top mech and worked on one of the posts that I had gotten stuck. I followed up the soaking with WD 40 and a little elbow grease and I was golden. Not sure if the coke was a placebo but it did work. Results may vary.

Other option is heat- but start with the soaking for a couple of days before going the heat route.
I think heat would cause it to get larger and stuck even tighter? Good luck.
 

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If it's moving at least a little that's a good sign. That means it's not corroded in place. I would try heating the frame as much as you dare without damaging the paint. The trick is to do it kind of quick so the seatpost doesn't heat up too. That should get the frame to expand a bit. I've heard of people using dry ice or an upside down can of dust remover for computers to make the seatpost cold and contract. I haven't tried that part myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
appleSSeed said:
Where do you get Ti Prep to prevent this?
I did use anti seaze when I assembled the bike, I was under the impression that this stuff was better than grease when Ti is involved.

I think I'm going to try the coke trip once my rib heals up I'm just not able to put that much effort into to with one hand. the hernia part I was kidding about the rib issue is for real.

Thanks for the tips.
 

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atom29 said:
If it's moving at least a little that's a good sign. That means it's not corroded in place. I would try heating the frame as much as you dare without damaging the paint. The trick is to do it kind of quick so the seatpost doesn't heat up too.
your not going to do a damn bit of good with heat if you are not willing to ruin the paint.
 

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yes, Ti prep or anti seize is the only way to go for Ti parts.

You might try pure ammonia, if you can find it. A former cycle art employe told me about that one, he said in all the years of removing seized posts from old steel bikes that it never failed. I've wanted to try it but haven't been able to find the proper, rather nasty ammonia that is necessary. Give the Coke a try first as it's way less caustic.
 

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Coca-cola has worked for me before.

Also, and maybe a last resort: Clamp the post in a bench vise and use the frame as a lever. It's "scary" to do and when the post releases there will be an almighty "crack" but you can get a large amount of leverage on it.
 

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Like atom29 said, it doesn't sound like it's corroded in place so the normal tricks for stuck seatposts won't help much. It sounds more like you've damaged the seatpost within the frame, maybe from it being forced into a bottle cage bolt, or maybe forced deeper than the seat tube was reamed, or something that is creating a mechanical interference. Not sure what to suggest in that case. It would be ideal if you could give your frame a colonoscopy by pulling out the BB and snaking a camera up the seat tube from the bottom. You don't have a spare one of those cameras sitting around do you?
 

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DavidR1 said:
I use Phil Woods grease and have never had a problem. Should I be using something else?
Phils is good for AL.
For ti use Ti prep and for carbon use carbon paste- Carbon posts can seize as well. Learned that the hard way with a carbon USE post....
Also regular post removal a good idea....
 

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boomn said:
Like atom29 said, it doesn't sound like it's corroded in place so the normal tricks for stuck seatposts won't help much. It sounds more like you've damaged the seatpost within the frame, maybe from it being forced into a bottle cage bolt, or maybe forced deeper than the seat tube was reamed, or something that is creating a mechanical interference. Not sure what to suggest in that case. It would be ideal if you could give your frame a colonoscopy by pulling out the BB and snaking a camera up the seat tube from the bottom. You don't have a spare one of those cameras sitting around do you?
+1
the problem presents like a Mechanical issue not a galling of metals.
This sounds like a chunk of weld material or the bottle cage bolt hole had some bits of metal that has now wedged itself between the post and frame. I bet your post is going to be gouged all to sh*t once you get it out.
 
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