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Holy Chromoly!!
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
... Im a big lurker on this SSp board and post every once in a while on the Vintage board, since thats my biggest passion within the sports.

After cruising 2+ yrs on my 1994 Breezer Storm as a singlespeed with Dirt Drop bars, I found it was about time to get a proper dedicated singlespeed. I am a framebuilder wannabee and wanted to build a frame myself this year. Steel would be the prime choice, but for a singlespeed I have lusted titanium for quite a while. Have had some Ti frame experiences, which didn't quite came out as planned, but with new experiences I re-set my goals to get me a Ti frame built to my specs. This would be my final ordeal before start building something myself.

Building something myself would be very time consuming and I didn't want to wait so long for a singlespeed to finish. Wanting a ti frame, I saw the only right choice in getting one made.

Teamed up with a very cool American guy (Darren Mark Crisp), living in Italy and started this project. We are reaching the end of the project and hope to pick up the finished product next weekend.

Design goals;

I wanted to keep the frame as classy, simplistic as possible. Everything in the right place, for the right job, no extra frills, bells or other stuff. I have a WTB Phoenix SE frameset (in the process of making it a complete bike) and having a great admiration for guys like Steve Potts and Charlie Cunningham, made me like the idea behind the geometry of the Phoenix and its predicesors (Cunninghams). The fairly compact frames they made, have quite some seatpost extension. I started riding Drop bars 3 years back and really liked them. I began to realize I got more and more 'trouble' adjusting back to a flat bar. The Phoenix will get a Dirt Drop, but this SS bike should get one as well.

Short list of the geo/frame specs:

-super compact frame
-stiff frame, yet complaint vertically
-somewhat raised front end (headtube) for the Dirt Drops
-full rigid geo (no suspension correction up front)
-complaint (vertically) design with a tall seatpost
-Breezer style, ss specific dropouts
-disc brake only
-EBB shell for PhilWood eccentric with set screws

I took a moderate seatpost length and drew up the frame height for this frame a few cm's above the line were normally 'limit' would be on your seatpost. This is the height for the frame, in my case approx. 14". Toptube length as on most of my other bikes and which works for me with the DD bars; 565mm's in a horizontal plane (effective). Fork height 400mms with 39mms of offset. Side note; this bike will get a custom made Ti seatpost to fit the frame as well.

Additional design spec's;

-eccentric turned headtube, just since it looks nicer than just a straight tube and leaving the rear of the tube unmachined for better weldablitiy of the top and downtubes.
-straight rear end, no s-bends, just straight tubes, like on a Phoenix frame
-all, I repeat, all round tubes.

After a lot of phonecalls, numerous emails and nights of staring at the ceiling, I finally received the first pics of what to come... I know you all like pics like these... I specifically asked if he could make pictures of this build. These are the pic's Ive got so far.

More will follow as the rear stays will be mitterd and attached to the front triangle.

Can't wait to get this bike out on the trails!!!

BB with setscrew nuts set up for welding:



Cutting the BB shell mitter on the mill:



Seattube, BB shell ready to be tacked and welded. Set screw nuts already welded.



The Torchmaster:



yes... I like....



Downtube, toptube and the custom machined, relieved headtube put into the Anvil jig:



Post welding:



Front triangle overview before welding:



As said, more to come....

Find out more info on the craftsman responsible for the building of this Ti art piece:

https://www.crisptitanium.com
 

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Holy Chromoly!!
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Tube specs:

Downtube: 38.1mm
Toptube: 34.9mm
Seattube: 34.9mm

The seattube is reinforced with a Paragon seattube insert, to accomodate the 30.9mm seatpost we will make for this frame. The tall extension of the seatpost will stress this area quite a lot, so the insert is used to reinforce the whole area around the seattube/toptube/seatstay junction.
 

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Holy Chromoly!!
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, the only option I had to get the drawing I made, uploaded for internet viewing, was shooting a pic of it.

Its 'clickable' to a bigger sized version which should be readable.

Notice the dropouts aren't in this drawing, since I didn't have the accurate measurements of those during the making of this drawing. The drawing has been slightly altered by Darren Crisp so he could build directly from this drawing. The seattube and downtube are now centered to the center of the BB too.

 

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Holy Chromoly!!
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As seen on the drawing above, I had a Goosneck stem invisioned for this bike, since I will be using the original WTB Dirt Drops.

From day one that I started this project, Ive been working on getting a Goosneck made. Unfortunatly this hasn't been easy. Actually Ive been working on that even longer, since I need one for my WTB Phoenix SE and Breezer Storm as well. Rick Hunter @Hunter Cycles was willing to give it a try.

This is what we would need;



Rick didn't had the tools in-house needed to bent the tubes without having the tube buckle or crimp and thus maintaining a constant tube diameter. Time went by and 3 weeks back Rick told me it wasn't going to happen at this point. It proved to be too difficult to get it done in this short time. I asked if he could make a 'standard' quill stem to fit the fork (1 1/8" threaded) so I could ride nevertheless. Rick acted fast and brazed up a nice stem that same day. Shipped it per express over here (the Netherlands) so I could have it painted pretty soon.

His brazing is immaculate, ashame to have it painted actually....







After painting:







Next up: the fork.....
 

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Holy Chromoly!!
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
With the name LeCadre, a friend of mine has been building frames and forks for some time now and he seemed a very capable person to make me a fork for this project.

At first we wanted to copy somewhat of the Type II forks, but the crown-assy seemed to be undoable with the tubes available right now. The second option, which we now got, was a straight bladed, lugluss construction.

I drew my own disc tab and had it cut out of stainless steel. The idea was to have parts of the disc tab covered during painting, so that the contact surfaces for the bolts and caliper would be 'naked'.



The parts needed;



Dropouts with eyelets for fenders. We don't use fenders, so off those eyelets go!



Cutting, filing, fitting, more filing etc, untill it all fitted nicely and could be jigged up for brazing:



After brazing; Et voilá, c'est un fourche rigide de LeCadre:



The initial idea of having parts of the stainless steel disc tab unpainted, didn't seem to work out as well as planned. The painter adviced me to paint it completely, since having it masked of, would have created an edge of paint that easily would break. Next time I will make the disc tab differently, with elevated area's so we don't have this problem anymore and can make the idea work.





(As you can see, the bolts of the disc caliper already left a nasty mark on the tab... )
 

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Holy Chromoly!!
Joined
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Potts is a little bit hard to reach for me at this point (not that much of an emailer). Seeing the initial plan and its tight schedule I opted to have a fork made here in the Netherlands to be finished in time.

I have to say though, that this whole project actually started since a Ti Potts with Type II was actually my wish, but would cut even more cash out of the budget. After some contact with Darren, I decided to take the 'alternate' Euro-Route since communications and all work just a little bit better, being in the same time-area as the builder. Seeing the majority of details that I wanted just exactly the way I invisioned, I thoughed this would be better. So far it has just worked out great, couldn't have asked for more....
 

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Holy Chromoly!!
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay.. got some more pics. The front traingle is complete finished since a few days already. The stay-supplier is taking his time to get us our stays, so Darren can't finish the frame at this point. Hope it will work out soon, since I plan on going to Italy to pick up the frame end next week... fingers crossed.
 

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velocipede technician
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8,703 Posts
Jeroen said:
As seen on the drawing above, I had a Goosneck stem invisioned for this bike, since I will be using the original WTB Dirt Drops.

From day one that I started this project, Ive been working on getting a Goosneck made. Unfortunatly this hasn't been easy. Actually Ive been working on that even longer, since I need one for my WTB Phoenix SE and Breezer Storm as well. Rick Hunter @Hunter Cycles was willing to give it a try.

This is what we would need;



Rick didn't had the tools in-house needed to bent the tubes without having the tube buckle or crimp and thus maintaining a constant tube diameter. Time went by and 3 weeks back Rick told me it wasn't going to happen at this point. It proved to be too difficult to get it done in this short time. I asked if he could make a 'standard' quill stem to fit the fork (1 1/8" threaded) so I could ride nevertheless. Rick acted fast and brazed up a nice stem that same day. Shipped it per express over here (the Netherlands) so I could have it painted pretty soon.

His brazing is immaculate, ashame to have it painted actually....







After painting:







Next up: the fork.....
great build story,really nice lookin bike:thumbsup: now how bout more pics of the green bike with the LD stem:D
 

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Holy Chromoly!!
Joined
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Based upon a logo Darren sent me last week, I drew up a design for a headbadge. Had it laser cut out of 1 mm stainless steel. Received several versions today and bent them around a tube to fit the headtube later on.

Im pleased with the result:
 

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