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luckiest of the unlucky
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all, let me thank those that helped me through the process of deciding on a frame size one last time. After nearly an 8 month wait, my bike should be arriving in the next couple of days. I'm excited to the degree that it's a constant battle to keep from peeing on myself whenever the bike comes to mind.
With that out of the way, here's my knitpicky question:
I'm getting ready to buy a thudbuster for my incoming Paragon. I know that there was a major update from the original version, but on the newer ones, there seems to be some slight differences in the way the rail clamps are designed. Was there a v2.1 update for the Thudbuster? Heres a couple of pics to point out what I'm talking about.
The older style (I am assuming):

The newer style:

Any input?
 

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Looks to me they made it a little

easier by running one bolt that you tighten by hand and another on the back that you tighten with an allen key.

It appears you use the knob to adjust/set position and then finish it off with the allen key bolt.

More user friendly than the older style I have as it requires some dexterity and a number of small turns of a 5mm allen key to get things where you want them.

Good upgrade.

Sean
 

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luckiest of the unlucky
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Sean. I'm not quite sure why that didn't occur to me, although it probably would have once I started trying to clamp down the saddle :rolleyes:
I'll post some pics once the bike arrives and is built up. It'll be almost entirely stock, but it'll still be mine ;)
 

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MTB Rider
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Not as easy as it looks ...

Soupboy said:
easier by running one bolt that you tighten by hand and another on the back that you tighten with an allen key.

It appears you use the knob to adjust/set position and then finish it off with the allen key bolt.

More user friendly than the older style I have as it requires some dexterity and a number of small turns of a 5mm allen key to get things where you want them.

Good upgrade.

Sean
Adjusting those knobs aren't quite as easy as you explain. But it's hands down better than single screw solutions. The knob in the center will only "hand turn" if the other bolt is slack.

As far as design changes go, the biggest one is probably the one piece bottom. I had a version 2 thudbuster that snapped in two where the seat tube met the bottom pivot piece. The version 3 thuddies are a SINGLE piece of metal from the tube to the bottom pivots.

I'm jealous of your Paragon. I hope to add a Paragon or X-Caliber soon. They are almost perfect configurations as they are the way I'd choose to build a bike (SRAM, Avid Mechs).

Every hardtail bike should have a Thudbuster.
 

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Derailleurless
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Hey, just to add to the pot...

I assume the "original" you're talking about truly was the original version 1.0 Thudbuster.

Your first picture is of the second generation. Zero setback. No user servicably pivots. Single bolt clamp. Bonded head.

Your second picture is of the third generation (3G) 'LT' model (since they now have the 'ST' short travel as an alternative). 15mm setback. User servicable pivots. Two bolt clamp as soupboy and willsmith correctly described. Single piece machined head/post.

The only thing that might sway you from the 3G should a decision on the post's setback (depending on the needs of you and your frame). Otherwise, it's a slam dunk.
 

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Speedub.Nate said:
The only thing that might sway you from the 3G should a decision on the post's setback (depending on the needs of you and your frame). Otherwise, it's a slam dunk.
I'd agree. Except for the setback issue (which kept Redhaze from being able to even use a 3G on his newest bike) the 3G is head and shoulders above the 2G version. I have both.

The pivots are much larger and durable looking on the 3G, and the clamp mechanism is far superior. On the 2G there was no capability for micro adjustment, and it was hard to get it it tightened properly without it loosening up again after 1/4 mile. The 3G is much more solid, and Soupboy's description is really close. You adjust the center knob (while the rear bolt is loose) to get the tilt adjustment and tightness in the ballpark, then tighten down the rear bolt to lock the saddle down AND fine tune the tilt. Sometimes it takes a couple tries to get the center knob where you want it, because the rear bolt does adjust the tilt too, but it isn't too complicated.
 

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luckiest of the unlucky
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ah, I see. Last time I knew there were only 2 generations. I was of the opinion that I had posted pics of a 2G and perhaps a 2.1G. Nice to know that there have been even more improvements. Anyone know where to get one cheap other than ebay?
 

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Recovering couch patato
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I think Bikeman had some 2G for cheap recently, but the 3G for around $100 is a steal anyway.

The setback is not my favorite on my 3G, so I slam my seat all the way forward. Not all seats are born equally, some may allow must more forward positions.

Not often mentioned on here anymore, but how about the hardly more expensive Tamer Tricky Dick/Pivot Plus? Adjustable rebound that could be gand! I got the 3G because it came in 450mm.
 

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I had one of the originals

prior to the sale of the company to Cane Creek. It died - the bonding between post and linkage broke down and allow the upper portion to pivot. CC replaced no questions asked.

I didn't mean to over simplify the newer style - I've never seen one in person, it was just a guess.

That said, I still have my Ti hardware from the original running on my 2G (basically the main saddle clamp bolt and elastomer bolt).

Sean
 

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Speedub.Nate said:
UniversalCycles.com always had the best prices on the 2G. Is that the case with the new ones?
Got mine at Universal for $105. I think bikeman's price is about the same, but went with Universal because they're local for me so no shipping. FWIW, they had a 2Gs in stock for the same price - no contest! - so if you order by phone make sure you're getting the 3G.
 
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