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Discussion Starter #1
I'm restoring a vintage tandem beach cruiser I picked up at a garage sale for $40. I'm haven't figured out the make, as its headbadge was removed a long time ago and it's been poorly repainted. Pics and a more thorough write up will be posted separately.

Anyway, I'm replacing the sketchy 1" threaded fork and 26-3/4" (590) wheels. I bought a dual crown/triple tree chrome fork with a 1" threadless steerer, figuring I would just convert to threadless for adjustability. I go to install the 1" headset, and it is loose in the head tube. I measure, and the headtube inner diameter is between 32.7mm and 33.2mm. Turns out it's a 1" BMX sized head tube, which takes an EC33 (or EC32 according to Sheldon Brown) sized headset.

Has anyone seen a threadless EC33 headset for sale? I can only find threaded headsets for 1" BMX.

I can't return the threadless fork at this point (ebay). But I may be able to replace the 1" threadless steerer with a 1" threaded steerer, since it's a fully adjustable dual crown fork. I can't find one of these for sale, either!

Last option would be to buy another threaded version of the same fork and try to re-sell the threadless. But selling/shipping is a pain and I'd rather just make this work.

Help!
 

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Phobia of petting zoos.
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Chris King make a threadless BMX headset.

Yeah... I know, 4 times as much as the bike cost...

They are a hard one to find. Plenty of 32.7mm threaded, which you would have discovered. Other option is getting a 32.7mm threaded headset, drilling the top nut to slip over the steerer, and losing the tanged washer. Also drill out the threads for the top race.

Obviously you will need a top cap to suit to preload everything but that is the least of your worries.

Grumps
 

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I think I have a basic unsealed Dia-compe 1" threadless BMX headset around here somewhere. I'd have to measure it to double check, but I recall trying to use it and it was clearly way too big for normal 1".
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That may save my bacon, Wes. Thanks for taking a look!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I hadn't thought of that, Grumps. I may be able to accomplish that with my Dremel.
I really would only need to grind the threads out of the top race, and wouldn't even need the top nut, as long as I have enough spacers under the stem, right? Maybe grind the tangle off the washer for a little more protection from the elements.
I should be able to use the 1" star fangled nut that came with the threadless headset. The top cap will probably be a standard 1-1/8" as I'm using a stem shim for more stem options.
 

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artistic...
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I hadn't thought of that, Grumps. I may be able to accomplish that with my Dremel.
I really would only need to grind the threads out of the top race, and wouldn't even need the top nut, as long as I have enough spacers under the stem, right? Maybe grind the tangle off the washer for a little more protection from the elements.
I should be able to use the 1" star fangled nut that came with the threadless headset. The top cap will probably be a standard 1-1/8" as I'm using a stem shim for more stem options.
Yup.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's closer than the one I ordered / received: it's 32.5 and too loose. I even tried shimming it with 3 layers of aluminum can snips.
I re-measured the old cups that came out: 33.5mm. So frustrating.
I'm currently attempting to ground/polish out the pitted races in the old cups and go up a bearing ball size. But I'd be willing to try your cups to see if they are any closer to staying tight in the frame with minimal shimming.
PM coming your way...
 
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