[NJ-XC-Justin]

I run a Reba Race fork on my 2006 Trance 2, and have been considering going with a 20mm Thru-Axle like a Pike for the extra travel but also for the rigidity. Someone told me the other day I could bolt on or thread my Reba into place with a 10mm into the present hub (a DT Swiss), which I think would add some stability. I'm not concerned about quick removal of the front wheel, since my car's bike rack does not require removal of the front wheel. Does anyone know how to bolt or thread on the Reba? Is this recommended? Thanks -

 

[TNC]

If that 9mm axle DT hub doesn't offer a longer, replaceable threaded 9mm axle, which I'd doubt, then you won't be able to convert it. The bulk of the conversions you're probably hearing about involve Shimano cup-and-cone front hubs, and there a few other "convertible" hubs. Here's a pic of a Shimano rear hub conversion, but it works the same on the front hub. You just replace the QR axle in the hub with a longer solid threaded version and use track bike nuts. Yes, it works and I've done it on a Shimano front hub, but I'm convinced now that it's just better to make the jump to 20mm forks.

 

[NJ-XC-Justin]

If that 9mm axle DT hub doesn't offer a longer, replaceable threaded 9mm axle, which I'd doubt, then you won't be able to convert it. The bulk of the conversions you're probably hearing about involve Shimano cup-and-cone front hubs, and there a few other "convertible" hubs. Here's a pic of a Shimano rear hub conversion, but it works the same on the front hub. You just replace the QR axle in the hub with a longer solid threaded version and use track bike nuts. Yes, it works and I've done it on a Shimano front hub, but I'm convinced now that it's just better to make the jump to 20mm forks.

Thanks. Can you "feel" the diffrence between a threaded 10mm axel and a 20mm thru axle, or is the forks that carry a TA that now appeal to you?

On DT's web site I found this:
http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=proline.bikedetail&id=64
I'm not sure if it is for my hub exactly (Mine is the DT Cerit Disc, which may be OEM-only), but is that my only shot at threading/bolting my fork? No homespun recipes work without causing damage?

 

[NJ-XC-Justin]

Bump. Any advice, guys?

 

[TNC]

Justin, just for correctness most all front standard QR hubs are 9mm...the rear is normally 10mm...or let me clarify than most all front QR axles are 9mm where they interface with the dropouts. As to the improvement in stiffness of a solid axle bolt-thru 9mm from hub, some of it depends on the fork. For example, I wouldn't do this type of bolt-thru axle on a true, lightweight, XC fork. I think dropout integrity could possibly be compromised on some of these lightweight types of forks. I only used it on alloy Marz forks in the past, as the more brittle magnesium always concerned me a bit. On a stiffer and burlier fork, this bolt-thru axle definitely seems to improve rigidity at the wheel. You still have a notable improvement over that with a conventional 20mm hub. I can feel the increased steering precision in rocky terrain the most. Yeah, ideally you're not trying to do lots of hard steering in rocky areas, but you know there are times when you have to change course with some form of accuracy, and this is when all the QR forks I had gave that flexy, vague feel at some of the worst times.