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Those who prefer comfortable geo in a trail bike (rather than long, low, slack)

3828 Views 26 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  evasive
Can be interpreted different ways, but I find through trialing different bikes (speaking mainly about all-arounder trail hardtails— like the new Timberjack) and sizes that I find myself preferring to size down to achieve more comfort, not just for more flickability. With the LLS modern geo, there are benefits I like, but I just don’t ride aggressive enough, often enough. To me, I am somewhat deterred from riding when I’m too stretched out and low because I become fatigued and strained quicker. I would rather have a taller front end and short tt and reach for the majority of the time, and am willing to make it work and push through for the aggressive lines with that setup.

So the solution for me with modern bikes has been sizing down the frame and getting 40+ mm riser bars. In some cases, I feel I could almost get away with going from the recommended large (about 6ft) to even a small when I look at some of the numbers — does that seem too extreme, or can anyone else relate?. The taller bars give me more clearance with my knees. Which way do you lean?
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Everybody's different, therefore comfort is different for everybody.
I'm a "recommended large," too.
But I prefer to ride XL frames.
That said, I do like my bars roughly the same height as my saddle... maybe a couple mms higher.
Which is up there.
=sParty
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A bike you love is a bike you'll ride, and that includes fit. There is no right or wrong, just what works for you and what doesn't. I understand what you're saying - I'm a hardtail rider and I like 'sweet spot' geometry, modern but not stupid. I typically ride a size large frame and I couldn't imagine riding around all day on something with a 63 degree HA and 490 reach, it would be miserable.
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I have a big, very modern full suspension. I only own it because I live close to Sedona and other riding that’s real fun on a big squishy bike. The vast majority of my miles are done on my Esker Japhy though. We make fun of the “down country” stuff being pushed by the industry, but honestly it’s my favorite trend that’s hit the industry since I started riding.

I love being able to ride just about anything, but also comfortably ride all day when I want to. I love my full suspension, but there’s no way it could be my only bike. I need something that’s a jack of all trades type bike, and the modern low slung stuff just doesn’t do that for me.
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My most confortable bike is my 500mm reach Nimble 9 with sqlabs 16 degree backswept bars... I can ride it 4h+. I just ordered a large Yelli-Screamy for my daughter. It's almost the same geo (475mm reach for the large) so I''m curious to try it...
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Everybody fits bike different. Few things cripple my back as much as a long climbs on a short bike with high bars.
To me, it feels like when a bike gets labeled XC these days, it implies it’s not burly or rowdy enough for the modern rider. But todays XC compared to previous generations seems more fitting and all around.
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Modern LLS is comfortable for me. My last three bikes have all been XL but the 2018 has ~20mm more reach than the 2012 and my 2020 bike has ~30mm more reach than the 2018. I think I've finally found a bike that actually fits well.
Sizedowner here. i'm a smidge under 5'8" and ride a small Banshee Rune with a 402 mm reach, 45 mm stem, riser bars. Similar to a Medium from before the reach wars, fits perfectly. "Modern" geo putting me on a 440-460 mm reach medium frame...Ive tried and hated it. Killed my back and neck (much prefer a more upright riding position for spine health) and no bend in my elbows in neutral position, couldnt maneuver correctly or get my weight back enough on the steeps. Most id go is a 420 mm reach w/ a 30 mm stem, these days even smalls are starting to get longer than that. I like low and slack, the long part is getting ridiculous lately. I think its a gimmick to sell folks new bikes. (but its a great trend for tall people)
At 5’10” and with my proportions I can ride a modern large or a medium and there are small advantages to each.

My ESD has a 490mm reach and a 63 degree head angle, and is very comfortable while climbing. I can ride that bike all day. The reach is a hair long for me, but I only notice it when trying to pull into a manual.

My enduro bike is almost 10 years old now and has a 430mm reach (but a way slacker seat tube angle too). It has a 65 degree head angle which is about where the ESD rests when the fork is weighted.

I’ve really grown to prefer the more modern geometry due to the way they climb so much better. I even do a lot more out of the saddle climbing since there’s much more room. I would potentially buy a medium modern bike but there’s no way I’d size down to a small.
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I'm not sure I understand how HTA is fitting in here. To my a comfortable pedaling position (which I do value as many here do) would seem to be sufficiently defined by where is your saddle relative to the bottom bracket (when in the highest position) and where is the handle bar relative to the saddle. Numbers like reach, HTA, stack height, blah blah blah all have some impact on these, but why not just describe the quantities that matter for comfort directly?

Take reach. So you have two bikes where the seat is in the exact same position and the handlebars are too, but one has a shorter stem and more reach. I get how one bike is going to handle differently, but I don't see why one would feel that different pedaling on a non rough, mild uphill path.

Or even STA (that I hear described all the time as super important down to the degree). It seems the rails on the seat offer some amount of change fore/aft and if the STA is too steep or shallow for you to get the seat where you want it that is going to be an issue. Does that happen to a lot of people? I ride a 2014 Salsa Horsethief and I've played around pushing the seat as far forward as it will go and it seems a bit off to me but I haven't done as much testing as I'd like yet to definitively say where I'd like my seat.

I am also a bit nervous about all these geometry changes these days. I'm going to get a new bike at some point, but I held off this year as it was just too hard to test ride stuff easily. I'm hoping next year will be better and maybe I can make it to some demo events.

As far as handlebar relative to seat goes, mine is also about level with the seat and the distance from seat to handlebars seems about right. I guess I would define this as what angle is my back at when I'm comfortably holding the bars - I don't want to be way stretched out and I don't want to be riding a beach cruiser either.

What are the core numbers to quote in terms of the way I'm thinking? It seems like it would be something like:
Body Height
Level Saddle and across the top of the saddle, how far is the perpendicular down to the BB and how far back is it (and you have to pick a will defined spot on the saddle - I guess wherever you think your pelvic bones are sitting
And then how far up or down is the handle bar from the saddle and how far away is it (perpendicular distance).

These aren't numbers you'd quote that are the same for a given bike obviously but it would be interesting to read other people's numbers translated like that.
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Wish I knew if my current bikes ('17 Intense Primer, '15 Niner Jet 9 rdo, and trek stache) were LLS or more conventional, that way I'd know if I should hate them or not. :)
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The modern geometry usually includes steeper seat tube angles along with the longer reach values, and this results in the effective top tube length being about the same. For example the Tallboy 3 had a 430mm reach with a 73 degree STA, and a top tube of 603mm. The Tallboy 4 has a longer 450mm reach, but with a 76.6 STA the effective top tube is actually a bit shorter at 596mm. So a longer reach doesn't actually make you more stretched out on the bike in a normal seated position. And these longer reach bikes usually use a shorter stem so even out of the saddle there isn't much difference.
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I like long low slack bikes, but low as in low bottom bracket (not too super low, but lower than previous trends). I like fairly high handlebars for comfort but not so high that it becomes difficult to weight the front wheel on climbs and high speed turns.
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The modern geometry usually includes steeper seat tube angles along with the longer reach values, and this results in the effective top tube length being about the same. For example the Tallboy 3 had a 430mm reach with a 73 degree STA, and a top tube of 603mm. The Tallboy 4 has a longer 450mm reach, but with a 76.6 STA the effective top tube is actually a bit shorter at 596mm. So a longer reach doesn't actually make you more stretched out on the bike in a normal seated position. And these longer reach bikes usually use a shorter stem so even out of the saddle there isn't much difference.
Exactly! I that's why it's sometime hard to decide which size to get. For my daughter's Yelli Screamy I was on the fence between medium and large. We needed something longer than her medium Meta HT. Going only with reach, a medium Yelli was big enough ( 25mm longer). But but TTL was shorter on the Yelli because of the steeper ST. So we decide to go with large... It would have been great to try both medium and large back to back but I'm pretty sure it will be a good fit...
As a long distance trail rider, I like slack head tubes, and I see the benefits of a lower BB (even though it drives me crazy sometimes) and a long wheel base, However, low stacks are a big problem for me. I find it difficult to ride with a low handlebar for long rides.
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This has been discussed a lot lately. There are really four measurements at issue - BB height, which hasn't changed much in the last 5 years, head tube angle, which has kept decreasing, seat tube angle, which has continued to increase, and reach. BB height, head tube angle, and seat tube angle are not really an issue. It's the reach that is the issue.

Bikes manufactured from 2019-2021 have a much longer reach to the point where a 2017-18 size L is actually a size M for most 2019-2021 bikes. Now I understand that reach had to increase somewhat to compensate for other geo changes, but I think it's gone too far. As a result, many people are looking at sizing down. Look at BKXC or Joy of Bike on Youtube for examples of this.
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I think that the newer frame geometry is influenced by the growing popularity of bike parks with big sweeping high banked turns etc. and lift serviced ski areas with Mt bike specific designed trails. I ride a 2015 27.5 full suspension bike and the geometry is somewhat tamer then the newer bikes. I rode a friends new bike recently with the latest frame geo, also 29 inch wheels, on the same trails I ride ( tight turns, heavily wooded PNW natural trails ) and found it to feel a little sluggish, could have been the bigger wheels. Defiantly felt a little smoother on the rooty downhills but somewhat slower on the up. I'm 5.9 and have always preferred a 17.5 inch frame my friend is the same height and his bike is a 18 incher. As far as reach and stem length I stick to the old rule that when you are in your preferred riding position your handlebar, at the stem, should cover your front axle when you look down.
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Ass-hatchet.

First I have to give attribution to The Radivist for that term, but it is so good I have to steal it. But it is a real thing. Those who aren't riding hard tails might say STA doesn't matter. Oh, it matters. Especially on a hard tail. My ride for years (and I still have) is a Ti frame with modern-ish geo, but a pretty relaxed STA (74-ish) and longer chain stays (438mm). It rides like a soft tail. I recently completed a build on a Nimble 9, a beautiful steel frame with a 77 STA and is set up with 420mm stays. It is a reasonably compliant frame, but there is no mistaking which bike you're on. The N9 will give you quite a prostate punch if you hit a ledge or square edge when seated. It's all about geometry, that closer-to-vertical seat tube and a wheel right under your butt that gives you a good jolt. Now, imagine the problem on a burly overbuilt aluminum frame with similar geo....keep your proctologist on speed-dial. That kind of stuff beats you up on long rides and just hurts.

Full squish guys don't really need to worry about it, but the OP mentioned hard tails - don't let anyone tell you it doesn't make a difference! If I'm building a HT with a steep STA, I'm going to be a lot more choosy about the frame compliance, and tires size and pressure.
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Don't hit a square edge while seated.

and yes, I ride a hardtail most of the time.
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