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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was at my wits end and pretty much ready to toss em out (Juicy 7). I had put on some 185 clean sweeps and still had a shriek like pigs being gutted alive. Would'nt have been so bad without the horrible pulsing and grabbing that felt like it was going to take my beloved ML8 apart!

Tried new pads and religiously followed the break in recommendations and still no luck. Then I came across this post:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1587098#poststop

I tried Whagen's advice of shimming the calipers up with some washers. When I did it I noticed that there was definitive wear marks down on the rotor arms. I started with one washer (about 1/16")on each bolt. This pretty much took care of the issues on the front brake but the rear was still bad so I put a second set of washers back there. Over the course of two long rides the problems quietly went away and the brakes have now behaved themselves for about 50 miles. We'll see how it goes over time but I think we're onto something...thanks Whagen!

PS: It took a little riding to get the grabbing to stop. I suspect that this is because I left the old pads on. They seem to have worn in now...Also, follow the instructions on how to incrementally re-tighten the caliper bolts as this seems to be a fairly important component of the install.
 

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Meh.
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Yes, you still had the vibration initially because your pads have already been unevenly worn where it grabbed the arms (why you shouldn't use Shimano rotors with Hayes/Avid brakes). You can resurface the pads by sanding in a figure-8 pattern across some course sandpaper.
 

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XSL_WiLL said:
Yes, you still had the vibration initially because your pads have already been unevenly worn where it grabbed the arms (why you shouldn't use Shimano rotors with Hayes/Avid brakes). You can resurface the pads by sanding in a figure-8 pattern across some course sandpaper.
I tend to sand my pads every week or so just as a form of preventative maint. Keeps the temper in check, ya know.;) Anyhow, the sanding works very well and I might add that a light washing of the rotor with rubbing alcohol helps as well.
 

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i've got juicy 5's and they also have the caliper issue at the rear brake...i went and took the rotor off and put a hayes rotor on which help a bit...but the issue is still there...i got to thinking that maybe the actual mounting bracket is the real culprit...maybe a but of brakets were made that were a little short?

anybody check on this?
 

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skyhogg said:
I was at my wits end and pretty much ready to toss em out (Juicy 7). I had put on some 185 clean sweeps and still had a shriek like pigs being gutted alive. Would'nt have been so bad without the horrible pulsing and grabbing that felt like it was going to take my beloved ML8 apart!

Tried new pads and religiously followed the break in recommendations and still no luck. Then I came across this post:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1587098#poststop

I tried Whagen's advice of shimming the calipers up with some washers. When I did it I noticed that there was definitive wear marks down on the rotor arms. I started with one washer (about 1/16")on each bolt. This pretty much took care of the issues on the front brake but the rear was still bad so I put a second set of washers back there. Over the course of two long rides the problems quietly went away and the brakes have now behaved themselves for about 50 miles. We'll see how it goes over time but I think we're onto something...thanks Whagen!

PS: It took a little riding to get the grabbing to stop. I suspect that this is because I left the old pads on. They seem to have worn in now...Also, follow the instructions on how to incrementally re-tighten the caliper bolts as this seems to be a fairly important component of the install.
Yes, I agree. That post was awesome. Quite possibly one of the best I have seen. It solved my problems. They do make a little noise when they heat up or get a bit of sand maybe but nothing like it was. It sounded more like a turkey getting gutted alive.
 

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adamantane said:
i've got juicy 5's and they also have the caliper issue at the rear brake...i went and took the rotor off and put a hayes rotor on which help a bit...but the issue is still there...i got to thinking that maybe the actual mounting bracket is the real culprit...maybe a but of brakets were made that were a little short?

anybody check on this?
Can't say that it's necessarily true or not, but for a comparison note .....

I bought a set of BB7's last year (yes, I know you are talking about Juicy's, but the mounts still have the same dimensions). I've had them on three forks and three frames and in EVERY instance, front and rear, I needed to shim the caliper further away then the mount provided. Always needed less in the front/fork (all Manitou forks, fwiw).

Perhaps casting/machining tolerances aren't being checked enough? Best I can come up with.

Also, has anyone ever compared/mixed using different manufacturer adaptors?

It would be interesting to do some kind of comprehensive study/poll on these issues.
 

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AndrewTO said:
Can't say that it's necessarily true or not, but for a comparison note .....

I bought a set of BB7's last year (yes, I know you are talking about Juicy's, but the mounts still have the same dimensions). I've had them on three forks and three frames and in EVERY instance, front and rear, I needed to shim the caliper further away then the mount provided. Always needed less in the front/fork (all Manitou forks, fwiw).

Perhaps casting/machining tolerances aren't being checked enough? Best I can come up with.

Also, has anyone ever compared/mixed using different manufacturer adaptors?

It would be interesting to do some kind of comprehensive study/poll on these issues.
I use a Hayes adapter in the rear, and one that I machined in the front. That's probably a big part of why I never had any issues. It's true that the Avid adapters seem to have a slightly shorter profile.
 

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I have been having the same problems with my Juicy 7's. I traded out the old rotors for the new clean sweeps and they worked perfect for the first couple of rides but now they make a lot of noise...mostly at slow speeds. Sounds like that Turkey whatever.

However, when I'm bombing off a hill, they seem to work perfectly.

Another thing... it doesn't look like my pads are rubbing on the rotor arms so I'm not sure the extra spacer would help. I've talked to a lot of folks about this and they say it happens to them as well.

Whenever I sand the pads down, it doesn't make the noise until they break in again?

Any suggestions??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After I shimmed the calipers up on the rear the pads appeared to be alligned EXACTLY as required on the rotors and yet they still had the problem. I shimmed them up with another set of washers and i tried twice to incrementally tighten the bolts back up. After about two rides of approximately 40-50 miles, the rear started to behave.

To be clear let me say that the brakes still squeak a little but i haven't had the horrible squealing or the pulsing for about 50-75 miles now. Even though the pads appear to be alligned, I would give it a try...
 

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Your pads were probably worn unevenly which led to the stuttering, after riding it for 40-50 miles, it probably wore down to be flatter.
 

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My Juicy 5's had the turkey squeal, but it seems to have gone away mostly by itself---or I just no longer notice it (probably true). The easiest solution is jus to turn up the volume on your iPod :p That solved the problem with my old Datsun :)
 

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Haven't been able to kill the shudder completely since July 04

:smallviolin: I envy all that have good luck with their Juicy's. I have them on my Ellsworth Truth and it has been a disaster for me. My wife also has them on her Truth and never a problem. My back disc has shuddered and scared me and every animal within ear shot 80% of the time. I counted the rotors I have bought and the pads. Nine rotors and 27 sets of pads along with trying everything that is posted. I have tried shims, washers, tightening procedures, torque settings, sanding and the only thing that works is using my front brake only. I may be on the ticket now but won't know because I have only tried around town on some steep Queen Anne Hills but that is using the kool stops, rear trailing edge honed on an angle in 3/16th or an inch with a vertical hack saw cut through the brake material on the same axis as the tab on the pads. They seem to shudder the last six inches of a stop. What a nightmare because you can spend 20 minutes getting ready for a ride and then 10 minutes into the brakes are howling and the bike shuddering.

Any other ideas? I do love the brakes when they aren't acting up. P.S. I am out of money so I need none-money solutions. It is odd as I ran the bal bearing avids for two years and never even thought there could ever these these types of problems. Al in Seattle.
 

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i have the prob too, first it was on the fives, so i traded up for carbons and the rear still does it. as many probs as people are having with these things avid should be looking into it and recalling some stuff or offering a very cheap solution, otherwise they might be losing a very large consumer base. i have already given up on rock shox forks, if the brakes go then my beloved sram stuff better not start acting up.
 

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Don't have the pad allignment problem but have a nagging oil pressure problem.

After bleeding mine and as soon as I put the lever where I want it to be the oil pressure goes away and feel like they have no oil at all. The front isn't as bad as the rear, took it to the LBS to have it bleed and at the shop felt fine but as soon as I unloaded and got ready to ride had no pressure again.

Has this happened to any of you? They're Juicy 5's btw.
 

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I WAS able to fix them

took me a while though. Several rotors, pads etc.

Ultimately I've had great luck with the Roundagon rotors (which yes, are heavy at 135 grams each) and the new Organic pad compound (from Avid). Put both on new, really paid attention to alignment and took some care, but not anal retentative) to slowly bed them in.

Unless it's wet, or real humid mine no longer squeal. Turkey gobble was easier to eliminate as the round rotors fixed that, but suprisingly, not the squeal.

Try the roundagon rotors and avid organic pads. Pay attention when lining them up, and bed them right. Worked for me. Took over a year to find that combo.
 

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DiRt DeViL said:
Don't have the pad allignment problem but have a nagging oil pressure problem.

After bleeding mine and as soon as I put the lever where I want it to be the oil pressure goes away and feel like they have no oil at all. The front isn't as bad as the rear, took it to the LBS to have it bleed and at the shop felt fine but as soon as I unloaded and got ready to ride had no pressure again.

Has this happened to any of you? They're Juicy 5's btw.
It could be a bad master cylinder. Internal bypass.
 

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Green Giant said:
... and the new Organic pad compound (from Avid).
How did you get these pads from Avid? Do they have a part #? Did they send them directly to you? Since Avid requires you to work through a store, and my LBS pretty much sucks, I'm at a loss on how to get something thats different from the norm..

op
 

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i just called and talked to avid and they said that if you let your lbs know they can contact them and send you out a new rotor for free. they told me that the company that cut and surfaced those rotors for them had some bad batches that they are just now coming to notice and surface on their end. im headed over to the shop later today to see if we can get the ball rolling on this.
 

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Tejas Mtb said:
i just called and talked to avid and they said that if you let your lbs know they can contact them and send you out a new rotor for free. they told me that the company that cut and surfaced those rotors for them had some bad batches that they are just now coming to notice and surface on their end. im headed over to the shop later today to see if we can get the ball rolling on this.
cool, i will be calling them...thanks for the heads up and leg work!
 

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XSL_WiLL said:
It could be a bad master cylinder. Internal bypass.
Let me elaborate a bit more.

When I got the brakes the rear was dragging, after alligning there was still some rub so I pushed the calipers back by inserting a screwdriver between the pads (have done this before with Hayes and Shimano) and was able to solve the dragging issue but then the oil pressure went away.

The brake was been bleeded twice since then and the pressure is there for a while and all of a sudden is gone. Didn't touched the bike yesterday so I can't say if they have pressure or not.

I'll try the LBS so see what they diagnose, depending on that an email or call to Avid will follow.
 
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