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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ordered a Camo 6.6 for a stealth bike, planning for it to fade into the landscape. Everyone told me it would be nearly invisible -- just like the Predator in Terminator 2 !

WTF, I'm calling Intense CS.
 

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mtnbikerx said:
Ordered a Camo 6.6 for a stealth bike, planning for it to fade into the landscape. Everyone told me it would be nearly invisible -- just like the Predator in Terminator 2 !

WTF, I'm calling Intense CS.
Oh man, what did you expect? It never snows in southern California....;)
Nice bike, now you need a white 6.6 for those winter days! :D

BTW: get rid of that helmet and buy some camo Giro or Fox lid!
 

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Take the pic in the trees, that might help. :rolleyes:

Youre a sitting duck out there in the open.

Maybe that will become standard issue to troops in the Afghan mtns?
 

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Mtnbikerx, What Marzocchi is that on your 6.6? An '06 SL or something else? How much travel?

I'm wondering cuz I'm gonna build a 6.6 and I'm not sure of which 'Zoke to get. Trying to figure out between an '07 66SL 1 ATA or '07 All mountain SL.
 

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Dam, that looks fantastic, me like alot. Awesome paint job
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
G-Ryder said:
Mtnbikerx, What Marzocchi is that on your 6.6? An '06 SL or something else? How much travel?

I'm wondering cuz I'm gonna build a 6.6 and I'm not sure of which 'Zoke to get. Trying to figure out between an '07 66SL 1 ATA or '07 All mountain SL.
G, that's an '06 66SL with 170mm, my first air fork (if you don't count the Mav DUC). I'm not sure I would buy another air fork for "all mountain" riding. It works "ok" after you figure out the air pressure settings but it still doesn't seem as plush as my old Z1 FR coil or the Z-150 on my RFX. I've had a 180 Travis on my VPX and on my Socom and it was plush like warm butter, not much of a platform fork, but great for DH. The only thing I would warn of is to get a fork with an A-C measurement that is as close to the recommended length for the frame as you can. This 66SL can be too tall for technical single track and climbing if you set it at the full 170 travel, not that the slack head angle causes a problem but the front of the bike sits high enough to give the suspension an unbalanced feel if you are picking your way through rocks and roots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
indyfab25 said:
Which snowmobile trail is that...er where? I was out on some around Clifton and they were fabulous! By the way, nice ride!
That's the old Veazie RR bed. I spent 2.5 hours on an out and back; 25F that day with no wind, a beautiful day for a ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
mascifm said:
Where was that picture taken? MAine?
Yep, Bangor, surprisingly enough there is a shopping Mall less than one mile from that spot. This is a great jumping off spot for the the infamous "Bog trails area" with great single track and some stunts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
heavypedal said:
:confused: HOw much stanchion shows on your fork? From the seals to the crown? Thanks!
175 mm measured in my garage just now. If I really hammer the fork with the front brake on I get 165mm of movement. I''m sure a cased landing could find the other 5mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hmmmmm, thinking I might replace my headlight with night vision goggles. The kind that clip on your helmet and swing down in front of your eyes :D
 

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:madman: I measure 6.5" I was sold a 170mm fork, but it does not seem to be 170MM.:madmax: Seems more like the 150mm version. Do you know how to change the travel height??
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
heavypedal said:
:madman: I measure 6.5" I was sold a 170mm fork, but it does not seem to be 170MM.:madmax: Seems more like the 150mm version. Do you know how to change the travel height??
If you have the '06 66 SL it can be adjusted from 150mm to 170mm by use of the positive and negative air chambers. In simple terms; using the pressure differential between positive pressure (lift) and negative pressure (depression) you can adjust the travel and ride characteristics. In other words the positive pressure; if higher, tends to make the fork stand taller and ride stiffer. Balancing this pressure is the negative chamber pressure that tends to push the travel shorter and make the fork more plush. On reading past posts regarding the 66 SL I've found that the working pressures run are MUCH lower than you would expect and lower than suggested in the manual. For example I run around 20 psi in both positive chambers and about 13 psi in the negative. This gives me full extension at my 220lbs weight. To shorten the fork I would probably run the positive at 15psi and the negative at 25psi (just a guess). You MUST have a low pressure shock pump reading 0 to 175 for example rather than 0 to 300 so that you can get accurate pressures down at the 25 psi level. Much more info and perhaps better explained by searching the Turner forum for "66SL". Hope this helps -- oh and be sure you have ridden the fork enought to "loosen it up" the seals cause a little drag before they get broken in. Your fork "may" have too much pressure in the negative chamber. OH YEAH, and this is BIG -- positive air fitting on the right leg is in the center of the leg, positive air fitting on the LEFT leg is the OFF CENTER. Negative is in the CENTER of the left leg!
 
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