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Thinking of purchasing a used 7 point 7...

712 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Hot Butter Topping
So I am thinking of getting a 7 point used.
I wanted to see if you folks had any suggestions on what to watch out for and what to keep in mind while gathering bits for set-up. Things like dents, cracks, major damage is obvious :)

Things like:
What to look/ask about in frame (linkages, bearings...)

What type of chain device to use? I usually use an e13srs and love it but, have heard that
these move around a little on th e7 point?
Looking into geting a rocco? I will primarily use this bike in the DH direction.
What fork do you folks like most? I am thinking either a 66 rc2x or manitou intrinsic 180.

Anything else would be greatly appreciated!

Am excited to try a dx link!

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I'd help you, but its really the DW-Link. :nono:

I guess my main concern if I were buying a used 7Point is if there is play when you lift up on the seat. Mine is snug, but I have ridden a 7Point that had some play, which translated into chatter on the trail.

Thumbs up on the 66 RC2X/Roco RC combo for downhilling. :thumbsup:

I've heard good things about the Travis Intrinsic from owners as well. (Step up over the Breakout +.)

Good luck,

Thanks Winston :)

Has anyone tried to run an srs with a 40tooth ring?
Any troubles?

40T? That's a big honkin ring these days. Go 36T for versatility.

-ska todd
boone said:
Thanks Winston :)

Has anyone tried to run an srs with a 40tooth ring?
Any troubles?

I'm running an SRS with a 36T ring. By looking at it, I'd guess that a 40T would fit also.

Running a 36T w/SRS here too. I'm selling the mountain cross sized e13 bashguard that came with the SRS since I prefer the more closely sized to the sprocket OEM e13 bashguard that came on my 7Point3 though. But I digress...

I see twisted e13 guides almost every ride. It seems unavoidable when you combine a 200 pound grown man (or more) hitting a grapefruit sized boulder or log at speed. I run one of those new Truvativ external BB's (Howitzer Team) and the ISCG adapter plate behind that instead of the spacer. But I've seen rotating on a variety of bikes that don't have ISCG mounts on the frame and have to run the adapter. Some might say it's better to have it rotate than transfer the force to your frame. Sounds like a decent enough theory to me.

All that said, I've been pondering taking an angle grinder to the excess metal on the bottom part of my SRS guide to streamline it a bit more and keep it from fouling my linkage. It's not the end of the world, regardless.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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