Thinking of purchasing a used 7 point 7...

I'd help you, but its really the DW-Link. :nono:

I guess my main concern if I were buying a used 7Point is if there is play when you lift up on the seat. Mine is snug, but I have ridden a 7Point that had some play, which translated into chatter on the trail.

Thumbs up on the 66 RC2X/Roco RC combo for downhilling. :thumbsup:

I've heard good things about the Travis Intrinsic from owners as well. (Step up over the Breakout +.)

Good luck,

Winston

Thanks Winston

Has anyone tried to run an srs with a 40tooth ring?
Any troubles?

Thanks

40T? That's a big honkin ring these days. Go 36T for versatility.

-ska todd

boone said:

Thanks Winston

Has anyone tried to run an srs with a 40tooth ring?
Any troubles?

Thanks

Click to expand...

I'm running an SRS with a 36T ring. By looking at it, I'd guess that a 40T would fit also.

toby

Running a 36T w/SRS here too. I'm selling the mountain cross sized e13 bashguard that came with the SRS since I prefer the more closely sized to the sprocket OEM e13 bashguard that came on my 7Point3 though. But I digress...

I see twisted e13 guides almost every ride. It seems unavoidable when you combine a 200 pound grown man (or more) hitting a grapefruit sized boulder or log at speed. I run one of those new Truvativ external BB's (Howitzer Team) and the ISCG adapter plate behind that instead of the spacer. But I've seen rotating on a variety of bikes that don't have ISCG mounts on the frame and have to run the adapter. Some might say it's better to have it rotate than transfer the force to your frame. Sounds like a decent enough theory to me.

All that said, I've been pondering taking an angle grinder to the excess metal on the bottom part of my SRS guide to streamline it a bit more and keep it from fouling my linkage. It's not the end of the world, regardless.