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The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

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#1 · (Edited)
The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite (Hitch, etc.)

Got it.
Assembled.
First ride.

Bicycle tire Wheel Tire Bicycle frame Bicycle wheel


(sorry the stem is 180 out, I have back problems)

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~edit: starting an index, to help people find key info in this long,
and often cluttered, thread
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If you see a post in this thread that you think would benefit others if it's indexed
here, then please PM me the link to that post.
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Firstly...
... NEVER let any partners or friends try it. You may not get it back.
Secondly...
We shouldn't have to say this, but for safety and optimizing the longevity of the parts (or in some cases, just so it will ride), check, grease and adjust everything before you first ride it. Typical culprits are Bottom Bracket, Front Hub, Rear Hub, Head Set, Brakes.​

... Took a magnet to my dolo the other day. the aluminum parts were: stem, crankarms (oddly enough), and rims.
Everything else was steel or plastic.
Recommended Upgrades
  • Bottom Bracket: $10 YST BSA Cup & Bearings, with seal to spindle shaft
  • Optimum ZERO BEARING TORQUE - you want this for the BB & hub bearings
    zero torque, yet with zero play:
  • Late Discovery: ALTERNATE TO YST BB UPGRADE
    Better choice for heavy riders.
    Best choice if you've bent your BB spindle.
    Someone figured out that although the cartridge BB bearings are too narrow to work with the stock crank arms, there is a cartridge bearing (or two?) that will work with curved crank arms. Look in the last pages of this thread to see what parts work.
    Note: someone was doing this and discovered that their BB shell width wasn't 100 mm, but 110 mm. Measure.
    The YST is less drag to pedal when set to zero-torque, but I'm pretty sure the cartridge is better against contaminants as it uses sealed bearings, instead of the YST's simple rubber seal.​
  • Freewheel with a granny gear:
    Shimano Megarange: 13-34T or 14-34T
    But they're "Alpine" gearing; they swap out their 28T for the 34T, so there's a big gap to the granny.​
  • custom stack of a 34T megarange
    Allows you to put a 28T back in, for having a 28T and for smoother gear progression across the range.
    Modifying a Freewheel:
    Many Massif and Dolomite owners want to put an easier gear on their bikes. This is easily done by swapping on a Megarange freewheel. The problem with the megarange freewheel is that is has a big, 10 tooth, jump between the 2 largest cogs.
  • Alternate to a custom stacked 34T megarange freewheel
    7 speed vs. 8 speed freewheel
    Allegedly the Sunrace and others that fit are inferior quality to the Shimano (softer metal? bearings don't last as long?), but... the 8 speed has the same physical spacing between the gears, so the stock derailer can access 7 of the 8, so it's a straight swap in (subject to chain length for larger gears)
    13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34T usable 15-34T or a 11,13,15,18,21,24,28,34T usable 13-34T and some others.

    Gear Inch Chart with Eight Speed Freewheel

    ... I ended up ordering the 8 speed Sunrace megarange 11-34T ... has the 28T second gear as a nice step down... I only use gears 1-7 and not the eighth so it ends at 13t instead of 8th gear being 11T, all I had to do was install the part and ride....
  • Triple Mtb chain-ring:
    Pretty much essential for trail riding, or have hills, or other than packed snow on the flat or packed sand on the flat.
    22-32-42T, typically manually selected by moving the chain to the 22T for hills/trails/snow/sand or 32T for road.
    Then if you find yourself changing a lot, then look to adding a front derailer.​
Popular Upgrades
  • better tubes: roll easier, lighter too
  • better tires:
    120 tpi tires roll easier, better grip, lighter too
    Huge improvement to the quality & enjoyment of your ride.
    On-one floaters seem to be the most popular of the less-expensive all-purpose fat tires.
    Coloured on-one floaters on a Dolo
    Start of list of tires people have put on a Dolo
  • Easy to knock 7+ lbs. off the Dolo's weight with new tires & DH tubes.
  • trigger shifter:
    Some prefer triggers, some don't.
    Shimano SIS 7 speed compatible.
    One example that works)​
  • Better brakes (like the Avid BB7)
    And larger rotor size recommended for anything other than cruising use on flat terrain, or for clydes. Why larger rotors for your fat bike.
  • Better brake levers (Avid Speed Dial levers are a nice indulgence ($14 to $40 depending on source), but overkill)
  • Better seat, different bars
Also Done
Tall Riders
Dolo comes in one size, blue.

Updated Feb 5, 2019, to change forum links from page based to post based addressing (even though the forum search returns page based links that don't work...:madman:)
 
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1
#25 ·
The shipping waybill says 49 lbs..
Bathroom scales say the bike is 50 lbs.., but it does have a tiny front light and some dirt on it now...

When I get the time, I'm going to pull the tires and weigh them and the tube. Going to try split-tube tubeless to see how that rolls with losing the inner tube.

I took near 4.5 lbs. off my Beast with a DH tube and a Larry on the front, along with a token contribution from a drilled rim. Do front & back, for near 9 lbs. off. (assuming it's the same tire & tube weight as the Beast).
 
#61 ·
The shipping waybill says 49 lbs..
Bathroom scales say the bike is 50 lbs.., but it does have a tiny front light and some dirt on it now...

When I get the time, I'm going to pull the tires and weigh them and the tube. Going to try split-tube tubeless to see how that rolls with losing the inner tube.

I took near 4.5 lbs. off my Beast with a DH tube and a Larry on the front, along with a token contribution from a drilled rim. Do front & back, for near 9 lbs. off. (assuming it's the same tire & tube weight as the Beast).
HOLY CRAP that is HEAVY !! My Pugs weighed only 35 lbs stock. The Pugsley frame is steel also.

Tire Bicycle tire Wheel Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle fork
Bicycle tire Tire Wheel Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle wheel
 
#30 ·
Thanks you for the kind words, perhaps I gotten wiser with the years...I still obsess over details and efficiency, but I've come to realize that there are other factors at play and not everyone is as crazy as me. :madman:

I'm like shank3r in that I've come back to bicycles after a long time away. I've worked on some great bikes lately, and I caught the bug again. But carving a grand (or three) out of a budget built for a family of 4 probably to buy/build a baddazz fattie would keep me bike-less for some time. The Beast seemed like a cheap way back...and it's much better than the pricetag would suggest -- which ain't saying much, but I work with what I've got, and create miracles where I can!

I picked up a Dolomite as well, because, well, it was...you know...more...and still cheap...yeah, I know. My plan was to electrify one, or both, and sell one, or maybe use one for a sidehack mod of the other...or I'll sell one and make a sidehack out of a Massif, I dunno...in uncharted waters here...it'll be cool though!

BTW, I treat the zombie apocalypse kinda like the CDC (CDC EPR | Social Media | Preparedness 101: Zombie Apocalypse). I really don't think there will be one...earthquakes and hurricanes are a lot more likely, but hey, if you're ready for a zombie apocalypse, you're ready for anything! :thumbsup:
 
#32 · (Edited)
I was hitting my heels on the chain stays a few times.
I got curious.

Tread/Q-factor

[table="width: 500", class: grid]
[tr]
[td][/td]
[td]Beast
(mine)[/td]
[td]Dolo - orig
release March 2014
(mine)[/td]
[td]Dolo - newer
late summer/fall 2014 to ___
(CrackerJim)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Tread / Q-factor[/td]
[td]9 1/2"[/td]
[td]9 23/32"[/td]
[td]253mm (9.96")[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim[/td]
[td]7"[/td]
[td]8 3/16"[/td]
[td]191mm (7.52")[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]rear axle center to crank shaft center[/td]
[td]19 29/32"[/td]
[td]18 3/4"[/td]
[td]475mm (18.7")[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]rear axle center to pedal center[/td]
[td]~13 1/8"[/td]
[td]~12"[/td]
[td]310mm (12.2")[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]clearance, chain stay to crank arm[/td]
[td]LH 24.45mm
RH 20.0mm[/td]
[td]LH 9mm
RH 8mm[/td]
[td]LH ?
RH 17mm[/td]
[/tr]
[tr][/tr]
[tr]
[td]wheelbase[/td]
[td]43 15/16"[/td]
[td]44 1/2"[/td]
[td]45 1/4"[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

Additional numbers for the 2nd gen Dolo at http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/do...olomite-902410-post11809990.html#post11809990
 
#34 ·
Canoe,

Can you comment on the bike components? Drivetrain (number of teeth, crank length, quality of pedals), stem length, hub widths. What brand are the brakes? Do you think that we can get replacement pads? How long is the seat post? 27.2mm diameter? Schrader valves? How about the shifter? Does it work?

Thanks!
 
#38 ·
if you have a spare parts bin to work out of it's not a bad deal. 100mm bb, 190 rear hubs spacing. it doesn't need the 100mm rims though. a vee rubber snow shoe is going to be the largest tire that will fit. and from what i have read that tire works better on a narrower rim.
 
#42 · (Edited)
If my lbs started selling this kind of garbage, I'd find another lbs. At best, these bikes are poorly made to the point of being dangerous. I appreciate that they might serve as an entry point into fat biking, but they're so shabbily rendered, that in many, if not most cases, these bikes will be ridden a few times, then dismissed and abandoned as a pointless fad. As such they are more a disservice to our sport than a boon.
 
#47 ·
I'd probably be buying new parts but i figure it'll still be less than 500 total. I'm really surprised wal mart came out with a bike like this. The best part about it is you can actually upgrade things. I'm thinking bb7's some orgin8 fat bike tires, drilling the holes myself and maybe going tubeless. Should be interesting to say the least. I just can't justify spending thousands on a surly or salsa for a "fun" bike. Maybe if I had an unlimited income id splurge and get something like that.
 
#959 ·
I just bought two of these for 199.99 (Post Black Friday Sale)
These are almost the most perfect Cabin bikes, and that is exactly where these two are going to live from now on.
In the storage shed at the Cabin. Why are they perfect?

1.) One size fits all! Kids to Adults!
2.) Fat tire in the woods for trails - what could be better.....woods in snow!
3.) They are cheap enough to be stolen and not really worry about it.
4.) They have cheap enough components, that they will work for a period of time - and you can repair them with simple tools.
5.) When you can buy 2 for the price of 1 cheap Trek Mountain bike and have the ability to run out with friends in the cold - it really does work!

Front brake started dragging. It was a quick adjustment to the caliper.
Front & rear discs are labeled 160 mm.

View attachment 876131

(orange cast is reflection from my coat)
View attachment 876132
 
#59 ·
Some room to save weight for sure. But still just a hi ten steel frame and fork. Hit a few good jumps and that fork is done for. Also would be concerned with buckling at the top and down tubes and also at the brake side seat stay. Any gussets on there?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
#60 ·
kris7047th, Thanks for your suggestion, but my issue isn't a herniated disc, and the back is only one issue. Between the fat tires & sitting upright I can ride. Without them, two minutes is around the limit, and I pay afterwards.
 
#62 ·
Bummer about your back. Like I said in a thread I started I am healing from a broken pelvis which has aggravated my lower back as well. I dunno .. a bike that heavy. Have you lowered the PSI in your tires? That will help smooth out the bumps considerably and ease any stress on your back.
 
#65 ·
I can sympathize with Canoe about his cranky back. Me, I cannot ride leaning forward, because then I have to bend my neck up to see where I'm going, which pinches a nerve in my cranky neck, and my right arm "falls off". So I use a BMX bar and a cruiser saddle on a full suspension bike, and I can get around all right. My 2 cents. :)
 
#67 ·
... So I use a BMX bar and a cruiser saddle on a full suspension bike, and I can get around all right. My 2 cents. :)
I checked the spacing today. I suspect a BMX bar will be ideal for me, with or without the drop-back seat post. Thanks!

... I dunno .. a bike that heavy. Have you lowered the PSI in your tires? That will help smooth out the bumps considerably and ease any stress on your back.
It's both bumps (degree and their character) and the stress. The fat tires, tested from 3 psi to 25 psi on Larrys and Endos, do their part fine for taking care of the bumps. Without fat, I can't ride without significant pain. A Beast with a 120 tpi Surly front is fine.
Remaining is a position issue, nothing to do with bumps. I need to be upright.
Heavy? Yes. But I get to ride. Priceless.
And I'm certainly not racing. Nor going any of the places I used to take a bike long before there were these strange things called Mountain Bikes.
 
#69 ·
Hard bumps can jar the back and neck. I also have compression in my neck but that issue is minor compared to my back and knees. I have had two knee surgeries on the left knee .. '77 had reconstruction and miraculously it has held up all of these years.

Have you test ridden a Surly Pugsley or another fat bike like the Kona at a LBS? You may be surprised the ride that you will experience, and if you do the same weight shaving mods you will get the bike ridiculously lower = a better ride and easier to manage. Even when you do shave off 10 lbs on the goose or whatever .. by the time you add fenders (who wants to get a wet mud strip up their back going through puddles?) a seat bag with tools and gear it will get right back up there.
 
#70 ·
Have you test ridden a Surly Pugsley or another fat bike like the Kona at a LBS? ...
Yes.
That's how I determined that near fat was an improvement, and fat worked, but standard geometry didn't work for me.

Yes, it's heavy.
Heavy just means I get there later instead of sooner.

But I get to ride.
 
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