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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Schwinn Moab SS I bought new in ?94? with this fork. I rode it a ton, mostly on the street and light trails, the first few years I had it. Haven't ridden it much over the last 10 years, but am going to start riding again. Still, mostly street and light trails.

The fork is completely toast while the rest of the components and parts still work great. The fork is essentially collapsed. There's no shock absorption at all, and it only rebounds if I stop, and pull up on the bars.

So... I found this rebuild kit online:

http://www.suspensionforkparts.net/eshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=94&review=write

but it seems like a major pain to do this.

Can I just swap in another fork? I really don't care about how 'awesome' the fork will be. I just want something to soak up the small stuff, and don't want to spend much. I figure I can get a lightly used fork that's a couple years old for the same price as that rebuild kit. Then again, I don't know if I can even swap a newer fork into my ancient bike.

Thanks for any help. And sorry for no introduction thread - I didn't see a sub forum for that.
 

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Replacing the elastomers is maybe all of a 15 minute job and will make your fork work like new again. You will just need a very long allen wrench to get the stack rod out. Replacing an entire fork and removing/re-installing the headset crown race and setting up the brakes correctly is more work & tools than a elastomer shock rebuild in my book. If you are not mechanically inclined, just buy the elastomer kit and then take it to a local bike shop to have them install.
 

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GrayJay said:
Replacing the elastomers is maybe all of a 15 minute job and will make your fork work like new again. You will just need a very long allen wrench to get the stack rod out. Replacing an entire fork and removing/re-installing the headset crown race and setting up the brakes correctly is more work & tools than a elastomer shock rebuild in my book. If you are not mechanically inclined, just buy the elastomer kit and then take it to a local bike shop to have them install.
:yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:

Not to mention you'll need new V-brakes for the front and an Travel Agent since no modern forks work with canti's.

Get the kit, service the fork (here's the manual), and you'll be on your way.
 

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whoa! you have GOT to post a pic of what those elastomers look like after 17 years! I had an elastomer fork (well, a few) from 1998 that I sold to a friend (I think he still rides it) that I'm curious to how they're holding up. thanks for the blast from the past. "elastomers" and "MCUs". I even remember cutting elastomers to get the most travel.
 

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This afternoon I pulled the dead elastomers out of the Tange Struts GS that is on a Bridgestone MB-5 I just picked up. 4 of the 6 elastomers were disintegrating and the fork nearly bottomed just by sitting on the bike. I read thru the manual posted (thanks mtnbiker72) and went to the local hardware store with my caliper. I found steel springs that are 1" diameter and 95mm long. I cleaned and greased everything and reassembled. The springs did the trick. The fork will work just fine for road and light trail use. $7.39 and I am rolling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
$7.39 I like. Glad this was posted. Reminded me to get this done and take my wife's bike in. Got her a new Trek something or other last year (entry level MB) and with purchase came a free adjustment after xx amount of rides. Last time we rode, we were going up a hill, and I heard a pop, and now everything with the derailliuers (sp?) is out of adjustment. I should take that in this week, and figure mine out (7.39 hell yeah) so we can get back to it.
 

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ok got the forks apart using a 5mm allen socket and a 10" extension. lots of rust, letting it soak in WD40 for a few days probably helped. getting all the rust and gunk out of the allen head bolt is key to having the bit fit in the bolt head all the way. I sprayed high pressure water in there and used a tooth pick drilled into a 12" dowel to clean the bolt head. I like the idea of using a spring instead of the elastomers and the $53 kit. however finding a 1" x 95mm compression spring is a problem. Local hardware places dont have them. i probably will go ahead with the kit but I don't see the seals,washers and bushings in that kit. I am a little worried about re installing the bolts as one of the allen heads got a little stripted.
 

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Tange GS Forks - rebuilds (hard to replace that 1 1/4 to 1 1/8)

Hey huffines23 can you give me a diameter on those elastomers? I'm wanting to buy some polyurethane to make my own. Unless, of course, you tell me I will need the rest of those parts in the kit. And won't you please post on the seals and washers? Homemade or kit - which did you go with and would you do it all differently? Keep us posted whatever you do - we're keeping history alive! Go Retro!

___________________________________________________
Show me a man who has never failed and I will show you a man who has never tried anything... Einstein
 

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Vortex- I ended up finding a couple of springs at a specialty hardware store-Elliots True Value ( Home Depot, Lowes won't have them).They were heavier than anything else I could find. Should have shortened the springs a little as the travel is not what I would have liked. Sorry dont know the diameter But it's are back together and works. Be careful if you have alot of rust, I almost striped one of the allen heads trying to get it out. A good soaking for several days is good. Also used a tooth pick drilled into the end of a dowel to clean the corners of the allen heads out. good luck
 

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Hey guys... my first post.
I have mid 90's Performance M304, I never rode much, but after a trip back from Vancouver/Whistler BC, where I witnessed some serious mountain biking, I'd like to get into the hobby like most of you. (and get back in shape, etc)

My old bike has the Tange Struts GS with dead elastomers, and this thread helped me fix it for under 4 bucks. Here's what I've done:

From Menards, I got springs for $1.79 each.(need two) The springs were in nuts and bolts section, it's packaged separately and part number is #88229, 1x3-3/4 compression spring.
I had a Harbor Fright hex socket (3/8 inch) set and used my 10 inch 3/8 extension/ratchet and it loosened the hex bold very easy. (socket set is like under 10 bucks with coupon, if you don't have one)
I followed the 'uninstall/reinstall' PDF from one of the members posted above, and the job was done in less than 15 minutes.

the springs made the shocks a lot firmer than I remember, but for the biking I'm planning on doing with it, it works perfectly fine. I really didn't want to blow 50$ on replacement elastomers.

I'd like to get a new and better bike, but I need to educate myself before I go out and blow a week's pay on a bike, and hopefully I can pick up a thing or two from here.

For the ones that wanted to see what the elastomers would look like after 20 years...
(one side looked okay, but dried out and flaking... the other side crumbled out and was more like rough powder)
 

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Hi Everyone

I also have a Schwinn Moab ss with dead Strut GS. They were completely flat when i road the bike. I replaced the old elastomers with springs as suggested (1"x 3 3/4") from True Value. It was a cheap fix that I hope will last the season. I can't believe how great this forum is. Thank you Everybody!
 

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Jeeze, I figured I'd never find a solution to this problem. I have an old 1992 Trek 930 Single Track with the obligatory flat Shock Wave (Tang) fork. I've been trying to figure out how to best fix this thing. I'm just trying to restore the 930 to a ridable state (it's still stock for the most part). Now to go find the right tools for a shock and chain gear ring repair.
 

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Hey guys, same issue here.

I FINALLY figured out how to unscrew those bolts with a ten dollar Harbor Freight socket extension set, and a $3 5mm hex key socket head from Home Depot. I kept unscrewing them for days; I knew they were unbolted but the bolts never really came loose, so finally I gave the top fork a hard pull and they came right out.

Questions. I found 1" diameter springs which will work perfectly...but how long should I cut them to? I have heard everything from 95mm, to 5", to 3.5", to 2", to 1.5". No idea.

Second, how in the world do I reassemble them? I reassemble and cannot for the life of me get the bolt threads to catch, so as to tighten. I'm not sure a good way to ensure the bolts are even lining up with whatever hole is down there, since the 1" diameter springs allow for plenty of horizontal wiggle room. I did pour about an inch of mineral spirits and wd-40 into each leg in case of old gunk getting in the way considering they didnt just fall out initially by themselves, but still no luck. I put the 95mm spring in (I've also tried with shorter springs), push/wiggle/jam the bolt in as deep as it will go, insert my hex bit carefully down into the tube until it catches on the bolt head, and could righty-tighty for years until I become old snd senile. The threads are still intact, but reassembling them is proving impossible.
 

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Hey guys, same issue here.

I FINALLY figured out how to unscrew those bolts with a ten dollar Harbor Freight socket extension set, and a $3 5mm hex key socket head from Home Depot. I kept unscrewing them for days; I knew they were unbolted but the bolts never really came loose, so finally I gave the top fork a hard pull and they came right out.

Questions. I found 1" diameter springs which will work perfectly...but how long should I cut them to? I have heard everything from 95mm, to 5", to 3.5", to 2", to 1.5". No idea.

Second, how in the world do I reassemble them? I reassemble and cannot for the life of me get the bolt threads to catch, so as to tighten. I'm not sure a good way to ensure the bolts are even lining up with whatever hole is down there, since the 1" diameter springs allow for plenty of horizontal wiggle room. I did pour about an inch of mineral spirits and wd-40 into each leg in case of old gunk getting in the way considering they didnt just fall out initially by themselves, but still no luck. I put the 95mm spring in (I've also tried with shorter springs), push/wiggle/jam the bolt in as deep as it will go, insert my hex bit carefully down into the tube until it catches on the bolt head, and could righty-tighty for years until I become old snd senile. The threads are still intact, but reassembling them is proving impossible.
I've used 3 3/4" (about 95mm) length spring and it worked perfect for me. Reassembly for me was very simple, it lined up on first try. Have you tried reassembling without the spring, just to check if it lines up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So 8 years later, I'm finally getting around to this. My son (who wasn't even conceived when I made the original post) is getting into riding, and I want to get this done so I enjoy my bike again. Thanks to everyone that posted info in here. Very helpful.
 

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Hello to everybody,

this is an old thread but anyway I wanted to share my experience with the matter. I have got an around 25 years old MTB of German manufacture with the Tange Struts GS front fork that had exactly the same problem mentioned here before: The elastomer elements had literally turned to dust.

This thread was very helpful for me in order to fix the problem. For loosing the screws at the very bottom of the fork that hold the springy parts together, I used a 35cm long 5mm allen wrench of US manufacture that I ordered from Amazon. With this tool loosening and re-fitting was very easy. The name/type of the product is “Bondhus 16464”.

Then, concerning the steel springs. First I experimented with some stuff from Ali Express, but that was all crap. Then I found the website of a manufacturer of industry quality springs called Sodemann (sodemann-federn.de). Although it is a German TLD, the manufacturer itself is in Denmark.

They have got a broad selection even within the range of springs with an outer diameter of 25mm (one inch) and the aforementioned length of about 90mm. In the end I chose to order stainless steel springs of 24.77mm outer diameter, 101.60mm length and 3.18mm wire strength.

These springs are apparently of very good quality. I put the whole thing together today and deem it a full success.

With very nice greetings from Berlin / Germany

Siegfried
 
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