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Nice job! I have that drivetrain on my bike, I like it and find the 1x so much nicer than a 3x I had on my old Trek. I put on some Shimano pedals which are very similar to yours, I find them better than stock pedals both in function and appearance, I struggled with the stock caged pedals and when I removed the cage they didn't grip as well.

You've a nice bike build now, well done!
 

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I’m using the Shimano Saint pedals and I like them so far

Question regarding the 1x12 conversion
All in all, how much did this cost you and do you have a complete list of the parts you needed? Just curious if there were any unknown items you didn’t realize you needed after you started tearing into it

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for the comments, if its too wet to ride (as it is here in the UK at the moment) then it sure is fun spending money on bikes!!!!

I’m happy with her now, I’ve also gone tubeless and have upgraded to the front tyre from the Ardent Race to an Aggressor. Maxis says it makes a good rear tyre but I wanted more front-end bite so it seemed like a good (if not slightly controversial) choice. It works well on the wet chalk & mud that I have been blasting over here on the South Downs recently. Its thicker than the Ardent and much squarer which stops, or at least helps stop, the front end from slipping out from under me. I like the Ardent on the rear, so stayed with it. Also, it’s worth checking your tyres as we found that the rear was fitted backwards from new….the front probably was as well but we didn’t notice until we checked the directional arrow on the tyre we hadn’t touched after realising the tread was facing the opposite direction to the tyre we had just tubelessed up!

I’ve not had a chance to play with the pedals really yet, I’ve only tested it up and down the road to get the derailer set up. They are very grippy, compared to the stock pedals, and they appear really well made but light. I went with these as they get great reviews and seem a good deal – and they look cool. Time will tell but im sure they will be better than the standard ones.

As for the 1x12 upgrade, everything came in the SRAM box (£230)…. Except the bottom bracket (£59.99). The only other thing you need is a tool to get the standard Bottom Bracket out, it would have been impossible without this……
Park Tool Bottom Bracket Tool BBT-22 | Chain Reaction Cycles
ideally you also need a tool to put the new bottom bracket in…..
LifeLine Pro BB Removal Tool 12.46 DUB | Chain Reaction Cycles

Next on the list is a dropper but I think I will get a divorce if I spend any more money on it so that will have to wait……. For now!
 

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Did you use the standard rims with a tubeless conversion kit? I've bought Minion DHF and DHR but not fitted them yet, the Irish weather is like yours (terrible) and with pandemic lockdowns I can't get anywhere to ride the Talon so I'm holding off swapping the Minions for the Ardents until I can use them. Toying with going tubeless, I have a tubeless setup on my road Giant TCR Advanced and it worked well for about 7000km with no roadside stops for punctures but I don't believe the Talon rims are tubeless ready? But the Stan's tubeless kit should work fine with them.

When you find a dropper that suits (and doesn't break the bank) can you post the details? Considering one myself but being new to MTB I really don't know enough about what to look out for and what might fit well.
 

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Just thought I would update you all in case this is interesting or useful to anyone…..

I did order this Bottom Bracket for my 2021 Talon 2 Nukeproof Horizon Bottom Bracket SRAM DUB BSA | Chain Reaction Cycles

And it worked with this 1x12 drive train set by Sram

SRAM NX Eagle 12 Speed Mountain Bike Groupset | Chain Reaction Cycles

The bike is back in one piece, rides beautifully, changes gear like a dream and looks amazing – which is half the battle.

I think I now have a Talon -1 !!!!!

Take care, stay safe and happy cycling.
Congrats! Got any pictures?
 

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It was my first attempt of going tubeless….. standard rims but ripped off the original rim tape as I didn’t know if it was up to the job or not. I used this in in 19mm diameter….. Schwalbe Tubeless Rim Tape (10M) | Chain Reaction Cycles. It wasn’t cheap and I did consider using gorilla tape but as I have never done these before so I thought I ought to avoid short cuts!!!

Used these 45mm valves - LifeLine Universal Tubeless Presta Valves | Chain Reaction Cycles.

The new Aggressor went on like a dream and inflated first go, which built up a false sense of security as the used Ardent was a real pain. It had only covered about 200 miles so cleaned up to look like a new tyre but it just wouldn’t seal round the bead for love nor money. It took about an hour of frantic pumping and lots of swearing before it just popped together when all hope looked lost - No idea what stopped it sealing or why it suddenly worked.

Sealant wise I used this - Muc-Off No Puncture Hassle Tyre Sealant (1L) | Chain Reaction Cycles after a recommendation from my cycling buddy, some good reviews online……. Oh….and because as it was on sale!

So far so good – I’m about 300 miles in, running them at between 25-30 PSI off. In the 200 miles prior to going tubeless I had 3 punctures on the same terrain but with slightly more pressure - so I’m guessing that this was worth the grief….. more grip and less punctures.

Photo wise, I was hoping I could post some dramatic scenery shot but instead here are a couple taken on the drive at the first opportunity without rain!

1912618


1912619
 

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Great information, thanks. I'll have a go at going tubeless with my Minions soon, I guess why you may have had trouble with the Ardent is that OEM supplied Ardents are not tubeless ready. They do work tubeless as you've shown but the bead is slightly different, the tubeless Minions have a smooth bead interface with the rim but the non-tubeless Ardent has a patterned texture to the surface, this may contribute to the sealing problems I guess. My son has non-OEM Ardents that are Tubeless Ready and their bead is like the Minion, smooth rather than textured.

Have you tried lower pressures? I'm running my tubes and Ardents at 25psi front and 27psi rear and will drop lower that that with tubeless? I'm about 78Kg and that pressure seems good for me and my weight. I don't do jumps / drops more than about a foot (yet, as I need learn a few techniques) so I don't over compress the tyre and cause pinch flats. Luckily I have had no punctures so far in a few hundred km at that pressure.

I'm getting a little bit of brake pad rub that I cant cure no matter how many times I adjust the caliper. It works fine after the adjustment until I get a few KM into a ride and the rub starts again. It's very slight and doesn't affect the wheel rotation to any great extent or at least I don't notice an impact but it's annoying!

I also find the SRAM drivetrain a little stiff when compared to my road bike, the crank just doesn't spin as freely and back pedaling is less smooth. Are you seeing the same with the 1x12 setup? The gear changing is nice and crisp, smooth and accurate until I get clogged with muck on a ride (where I ride is very sloppy at the moment) and then it jumps around a little, it goes back to normal after a good wash.
 

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I'm getting a little bit of brake pad rub that I cant cure no matter how many times I adjust the caliper. It works fine after the adjustment until I get a few KM into a ride and the rub starts again. It's very slight and doesn't affect the wheel rotation to any great extent or at least I don't notice an impact but it's annoying!
I am by no means mechanically inclined, but could it be that the rotor is not true, and/or that the pads need to just be replaced (vs adjusted)? Or, does there need to be ever so slight more clearance between the pads and the rotor?
 

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I am by no means mechanically inclined, but could it be that the rotor is not true, and/or that the pads need to just be replaced (vs adjusted)? Or, does there need to be ever so slight more clearance between the pads and the rotor?
I'll try the clearance, there are only an easy 200-300km on the bike from new, no knocks or bumps so I'm hoping the rotors / wheels are true and the pads are virtually new. Thanks for the suggestion, coming from a road & rim brake background disk brakes are new to me!
 

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Arrrr – good point, that makes perfect sense. Thinking about it the MAXXIS decal on the Ardent are white whilst on the new Aggressor MAXXIS is written in yellow. It’s a bit cheeky but I fully understand it comes down to cost and I would rather have a slightly cheaper version of a good trye as opposed to a cheep one to start with – this time next year I will have worn it out anyway! It was noticeably harder to seal but I didn’t think to check the bead. The one I took off the front is up in the shed so, when I get a chance, I will have a look but I bet you are right!

I will try lower pressures at some point, at the moment running a lot of tarmac just to keep my mileage up in the winter. The South Downs, where I usually ride is just too wet and muddy. Tonight, I’m hitting butts Lane a few times if you fancy a google – it’s an absolute killer. I try to do this once a week just for fun and because I can be up it and back in less than 45 minutes from my house so it doesn’t constitute an evening ride in my wife’s eyes…. Its just hard to get motivated when its freezing cold, wet and dark!

Its funny you should mention the break squeal – I get that as well. I didn’t get it at all with the stock forks then, when I fitted the Rockshox, it started and I really struggled to cure it. Like you say I have adjusted the calliper over and over again and just when you think its sorted it starts again. I assumed it was because the angle of the new fork was different to the original by a few degrees and that I had worn the pads at an angle so they weren’t hitting flat but I could be wrong. The gap each side of the rotor looks the same so I cant really work out what is actually squeaking. I’m going to live with it for now but it might end up as an upgraded rotor at some point, which no doubt won’t cure it so I will end up with pads followed by a new calliper.
 

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new here! great info- thanks to all you guys who contribute-
I just bought a Talon 2 in "Concrete"......first mountain bike in 14 years
 
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