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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, all.

Just got in my first ride on my new Tallboy. Loved it. I'm coming from an Intense Spider 29er, so I could feel a lot of similarities but also the increased stiffness of the Tallboy was very obvious. It'll be my enduro race bike & trail bike, with a Niner S.I.R. keeping it company for SS days and a Nomad as my park bike/SuperD bike.

The one big question I had, though, was the vulnerability of the bottom bracket area and lower link to hits from rocks. The grease ports seem to be in just about the worst possible position to survive a hit, and I'm a bit concerned as to how the carbon is going to hold up in that area...

Anyone else in rocky areas with some experience/feedback to share?

Thanks,

Rick
 

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I live in the southeast US and ride rocky trails all the time. Lots of logs as well. Absolutely no worries with the grease ports. The lower pivot at the front end/bottom of the chainstay sees a little abuse, but nothing to worry about.
 

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http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=572034&highlight=blur+zerk
I have been meaning to remove the lowest zerk as described in this thread but I have been too lazy. I am in the southeast where it is not much of a problem right now. When I head back to my summer home in Colorado much tougher on a bike, I will probably get around to it.
As far as the outer edge of the the lower pivots that I was expecting to be really nicked up by now 7 months later (Could not get heli-tape to stay there and this is compared to my Ibis Mojo with rubber paint ), still really in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks to all for their info/experience. I think I'm going to make a protective cover for the zerk fittings out of a single piece of rubber, with a couple half-depth holes drilled into it a bit smaller than the fittings. Idea would be to use it as both a cover and as mini bash guard for the link. If I come up with something I'll let you all know.
 

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My zerks are a problem. One is loose and the other pulled out in the grease gun. I've got less than 100 miles on the frame. I think the culprit is the gun. Really hard to remove after installation. Not sure what is going to come of this.

I cant believe its from impact as I have not ridden that type of terrain also, rocks would have to get past the cranks and chain rings.
:skep:
 

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change is good
Switchblade with a 38, 29+ rigid WaltWorks
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I not trying to be condescending, but did you loosen the end cap on the grease gun enough? I almost pulled out the fitting myself. I had to use not only a wrench, but also vice grips to get the cap loose. The cap on my gun has to be loosened so much it almost comes off.

I not too worried about the linkages and the fittings being damaged. If the Santa Cruz testers didn't destroy them, I doubt I would.
 

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oops, on greese gun (brain fart) loosen the nozzle and it should pop off. If not twist to side and it will come off.
Got off lazy butt and worked on issue cause my custom fork sets bb pretty low (most of you guys may not be much of a problem on 29er, vs LT)
Just get the little plastic end plugs at home depot. Same I used for down tube water bottle bosses. Press fit them in. Easy just look around. Really only lowest one needs it.
156" plug
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100337978&N=10000003+90048+502891

I cut the end off so would not bottom and not press in so tight that you would rip head off when removing to put zerk in for lubing.
The other plug for water bottle bosses is 315" just pull the bolts out and push them in and done. Never had one fall out of the bosses anyway.
I will be interested to see how the zerk plug actually holds up. Water seal seemed good but will be interested to see if plug stays in.
(Note the helitape)
Also note the helicopter tape made bearing bra that keeps most of the mud that kicks over the tire off of the bearings.
Btw, carefully cover bottom bracket with towel when pulling the Zerk GENTLY with the nail pulling side of a small hammer.
(Honestly, I wonder if all this trouble is worth it but I guess better than having the carbon damaged by clipping the zerk on something.)
Pictures to follow as always YRMV and proceed at own risk messing around with carbon ya know. If it seems complicated you should not waste time messing with it. Pm me if more info is wanted I put this thread to bed. Btw, I would not screw anything metal in that carbon hole.....like a screw. Also, very little need to mess with this stuff even as far as greasing unless you ride in rain allot or are ummm. stupid oops I mean.. brave enough to spray hose your bike clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Took the new Tallboy out for its first "real" ride this weekend - 3 1/2 hours of some of the gnarliest, rawest trails in the area - and it performed well. I still have a bit of suspension tuning and saddle/stem adjustments to do, but overall the bike was fantastic.

Regarding the original topic, I definitely added a few dings to the area in question. What I did come up with, though, was a potential solution. I'm going to look into making a cheap and light bashguard that bolts into the lower water bottle mounts. The purpose is just to provide enough protection to keep the zerks safe and disperse the force of a sharp rock hitting the area around the bottom bracket shell/lower link. I think it will take a few different design experiments, but it seems do-able.
 

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RickBullotta said:
Regarding the original topic, I definitely added a few dings to the area in question. What I did come up with, though, was a potential solution. I'm going to look into making a cheap and light bashguard that bolts into the lower water bottle mounts. The purpose is just to provide enough protection to keep the zerks safe and disperse the force of a sharp rock hitting the area around the bottom bracket shell/lower link. I think it will take a few different design experiments, but it seems do-able.
Not flaming, because I'm interested in the Tallboy, but for $5k, I don't want to be worried about the frame or ghetto-ing some crazy bashguard contraption for fear of damage...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
DirtDummy said:
Not flaming, because I'm interested in the Tallboy, but for $5k, I don't want to be worried about the frame or ghetto-ing some crazy bashguard contraption for fear of damage...
Completely agree, but lacking an alternative, a MacGyver solution is sometimes needed...
 

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Maybe mount the bash on the opposite side of the boomerang. That way the guard is more centered, rather than pushed to wards the rings.

I wonder if you could mount two of them, one on each side...:D
 

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I remember seeing a post about the exposure of the zerks. I thought the one solution was to remove the zerks and put in replacement screws and remove them only when greasing. I think putting in plastic screws would help as well.
 

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redranger said:
I remember seeing a post about the exposure of the zerks. I thought the one solution was to remove the zerks and put in replacement screws and remove them only when greasing. I think putting in plastic screws would help as well.
I think this is the best containment for now. I'm going to be replacing my zirks with screws right away. Does anyone know the what size the zirks are?
I also ordered some ABS plastic today to build me up a skid plate for that bolts to the water bottle mounts. I'll post some pics soon.
 

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trail "cleaner"
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same vulnerability as a Niner RIP

palmermtb said:
I think this is the best containment for now. I'm going to be replacing my zirks with screws right away. Does anyone know the what size the zirks are?
I also ordered some ABS plastic today to build me up a skid plate for that bolts to the water bottle mounts. I'll post some pics soon.
Looks like the Tallboy and the RiP have the same problem.. Lack of protection for the lower link. Here is my solution for the RiP.
 

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