Joined
·
9 Posts
Hello all,
First of all, I'd like to thank everyone for posting up such great information, specifically on the Talas to Float conversion. Now that I've done my research on the conversion, I need some help deciding what route I should head. Excuse the post - I don't know how else to give the whole story without being wordy
A little background: I've been riding my 2010 Talas for just under a year now. It's been OK at Northstar, GREAT in my local hills, AWESOME at Demonstration in Santa Cruz, and FANTASTIC at Downieville. Until last week....
I rode it pretty hard in San Luis Obispo a few weeks ago and started blowing some oil out of the seals. Like I said, I've been riding this thing about a year and have not replaced the seals (I've only ever done bath oil a few times), so I knew it needed a bit of TLC. I dropped the lowers off, drained the oil, refilled, and went riding. GREAT, the fork is back to new, working well, feeling good, until about halfway down my first descent, at which point I lost ALL damping in the fork. It was almost as though the fork lost all of it's air - full compression under my bodyweight alone. I nursed it home and checked the air - all good. I drained the lowers and put 10wt back in (instead of the 7 I used before) - no change. I did it AGAIN, just to make sure I put the right amount in both legs (this time I had supervision...) - no change.
I finally took it into my local shop and they told me the Talas cartridge was blown. Given that I've had the fork under a year, and it's under warranty, I see that I've got 4 ways to going about fixing it:
1) Send it back to Fox, for warranty work.
2) Send it back to Fox and see if they'll swap out the Talas for Float internals.
3) Send it to Push and have them fix and tune the fork as they see fit.
4) Send it to Push and ask them to swap out the Talas for Float internals.
5) Send it to Fox for warranty work, then swap out the Talas for Float on my own time (once the fork is in a known good state)
You'll notice that I didn't put "6) Swap out the Talas for Float myself". The only reason I don't want to go down this path is because if there is something wrong with the damping cartridge, not the Talas, I want someone else to fix it.
So, here I am, raising the question to you fine people. Does the small bump compliance / progression of a Float conversion outweigh either a fully functioning Talas (the travel adjustment, by the way, of which has never been used) or a Push tuned Talas/Float? Would it be plain stupid to swap out a Talas for a Float, given that the Talas is still under warranty? I have no qualms with the way the fork feels when it works. I get full suspension when I need it, and to be frank, the fork consistently far outperforms my riding abilities.
Thanks for everyone's feedback!
First of all, I'd like to thank everyone for posting up such great information, specifically on the Talas to Float conversion. Now that I've done my research on the conversion, I need some help deciding what route I should head. Excuse the post - I don't know how else to give the whole story without being wordy
A little background: I've been riding my 2010 Talas for just under a year now. It's been OK at Northstar, GREAT in my local hills, AWESOME at Demonstration in Santa Cruz, and FANTASTIC at Downieville. Until last week....
I rode it pretty hard in San Luis Obispo a few weeks ago and started blowing some oil out of the seals. Like I said, I've been riding this thing about a year and have not replaced the seals (I've only ever done bath oil a few times), so I knew it needed a bit of TLC. I dropped the lowers off, drained the oil, refilled, and went riding. GREAT, the fork is back to new, working well, feeling good, until about halfway down my first descent, at which point I lost ALL damping in the fork. It was almost as though the fork lost all of it's air - full compression under my bodyweight alone. I nursed it home and checked the air - all good. I drained the lowers and put 10wt back in (instead of the 7 I used before) - no change. I did it AGAIN, just to make sure I put the right amount in both legs (this time I had supervision...) - no change.
I finally took it into my local shop and they told me the Talas cartridge was blown. Given that I've had the fork under a year, and it's under warranty, I see that I've got 4 ways to going about fixing it:
1) Send it back to Fox, for warranty work.
2) Send it back to Fox and see if they'll swap out the Talas for Float internals.
3) Send it to Push and have them fix and tune the fork as they see fit.
4) Send it to Push and ask them to swap out the Talas for Float internals.
5) Send it to Fox for warranty work, then swap out the Talas for Float on my own time (once the fork is in a known good state)
You'll notice that I didn't put "6) Swap out the Talas for Float myself". The only reason I don't want to go down this path is because if there is something wrong with the damping cartridge, not the Talas, I want someone else to fix it.
So, here I am, raising the question to you fine people. Does the small bump compliance / progression of a Float conversion outweigh either a fully functioning Talas (the travel adjustment, by the way, of which has never been used) or a Push tuned Talas/Float? Would it be plain stupid to swap out a Talas for a Float, given that the Talas is still under warranty? I have no qualms with the way the fork feels when it works. I get full suspension when I need it, and to be frank, the fork consistently far outperforms my riding abilities.
Thanks for everyone's feedback!
