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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to put together some info on the TALAS differences. Can you guys help fill the blanks?

TALAS 1 - Approx 2004, Uses an IFP and single position needle which winds up/down on a big double thread. 1 click changes 3mm.
TALAS 2 - Approx 2007, Uses an IFP and multi position needle which has the core wind up/down to move equalisation point.
TALAS 3 - Approx 2010, No IFP. and the needle core slides up/down on a cam as the cap rotates to move equalisation point.
TALAS 4 - Approx 2011, Looks a whole lot like TALAS 3 apart from the knob. Anyone know the internal differences? I'm not sure I've seen one.
TALAS 5 - Approx 2013, Hydraulic 2 position cartridge sitting on top a FLOAT style air spring with air positive and coil negative.
 

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After some digging, it seems that the TALAS 4 moved to 2 position, vs the 3 position in the III. The only text I can find is below. Tough to find much about it.


Pictures here:

 

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TALAS 5 is what I have; it's the only one I know much about. I am pretty sure it came in with 2014. Supposedly it had a better force vs. disp curve than previous models. It's easy to find a cutaway view of the system, a little harder to figure out how it works, lol.

You can add clips to the topcap to reduce the amount of travel lost in the short mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
TALAS 5 is what I have; it's the only one I know much about. I am pretty sure it came in with 2014. Supposedly it had a better force vs. disp curve than previous models. It's easy to find a cutaway view of the system, a little harder to figure out how it works, lol.

You can add clips to the topcap to reduce the amount of travel lost in the short mode.
Yeah the TALAS 5 I still get about 1 a year. They are ugly to work on as they use a hydraulic cartridge for the travel adjust (similar to the 2008 Specialized E150) and a FLOAT air spring underneath. The hydraulic cartridge has no bleed port so you have to make up a tooling kit. Then you'll spend the same amount of time trying to get the adjuster, springs and balls back in place as you did servicing the rest of the fork.

I saw an instagram post a few years back where a shop took one apart, gave up and bought a new cartridge for the customer.
 

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Had one of those come in for service once. The travel adjustment was a hydraulic circuit! Had to bleed the air sleeve. Haven't seen anything else like it. I guess the Gemini shocks would be a bit similar in looks though.
I had a TALAS shock on my old Swtchblade. It worked pretty well, but couldn’t be serviced after 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think I have a very old air can service document that fox sent me years ago.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Fox had a 38mb PDF of their 01-06 stuff floating around the internet. It's in there but the drawings are ancient 2D CAD style.
 

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Yeah the TALAS 5 I still get about 1 a year. They are ugly to work on as they use a hydraulic cartridge for the travel adjust (similar to the 2008 Specialized E150) and a FLOAT air spring underneath. The hydraulic cartridge has no bleed port so you have to make up a tooling kit. Then you'll spend the same amount of time trying to get the adjuster, springs and balls back in place as you did servicing the rest of the fork.

I saw an instagram post a few years back where a shop took one apart, gave up and bought a new cartridge for the customer.
I believe they can be bled adequately without special tools... I figured out a method, as I did it a couple of times before I figured out that I needed to replace all the o-rings in my TALAS system... One trick that worked for me is to pack some heavy grease into the air tube that goes through the topcap. I fill shock oil around the topcap and install it in the "low" position in the air spring and then pump the shock fluid up into the topcap area by pulling on the topcap.

I thought the detent balls and springs would be tougher than they ended up being. Gotta have grease to keep everything stuck in place, also I threaded the air valve into the the little "switch" in order to have something to hold onto.

Probably need pics/video rather than words to describe it.
 

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When I first got the fork, I think the TALAS 5 system had air in it and it was enough that there was a clunking that you could feel on bumps. I thought maybe my fork bushings were shot. But I got the TALAS system working correctly and the clunking went away.
 
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