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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys,
recently (2 months ago) i bought my Sx Trail 2008 frame and after the first trail riding I've heard that noise coming from here:

I've tightened that axle and the noise disappear but after another ride it came back. I'd wrote the post about removing the bushing but when I disassembled the axle from the DHX lower eye I found that there in no bushing:
the same is at the 06 Enduro pdf: https://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf/manuals/06_Enduro.pdf there are no bushings - just the axle passing trough shock eye. I've tried the bushing for Fox but it outside diameter was like the diameter of axle:

I wrote Specialied support what is that bushing to change it but they answered me:
"You must see a dealer to solve this problem. If there is any indication that you have worked on your suspension, all warranties will be void."
What would you counsel me?
 

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To me it looks like the shock eye is sliding back and forth between the spacers--like it's not tightening up all the way. Wrong size spacers? All of that should bolt up tight w/o any movement. The only movement should be in the quad-bearings that are in the link and stays. Original owner? Take it to the shop.
 

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I have the same issue on my 06 Enduro.

If I tighten up the TA bolts too tight it will squak(!) like crazy, but no shock movement. For a no squak tension, the shock rattles on impacts.

The through axle has some play in the eyelet. But I think that is by design. This started happening AFTER I took it to a specialized dealer to replace all bearings less than a year ago.

P
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@Mr.P :eekster:
@WaveDude original owner, yes. I'll try to stick them together, but i didn't noticed any channel to link them, I'll try again. The axle diameter is 15mm, between it and eye of shock there is 1-2mm difference.
@kntr what kind? There is no bushing at Enduro diagram.
 

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Unless they changed the design for '08 (I doubt it), there is NO BUSHING in the lower eyelet. The eyelet is the standard size for a fox shock--it's just that the DU bushing is left out because it isn't needed. There should be no movement of the axle inside of the shock eye--all that is handled by the bearings. There should be no sliding back and forth of the eyelet between the conical spacers--they should clamp tight to the eyelet and keep it firmly in place. Also there are no channels for anything to key into--friction keeps it all together. If your shock eye's are sliding back and forth after applying the proper toruqe to the axle/nut, something is out of whack.
 

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Mr.P said:
I have the same issue on my 06 Enduro.

If I tighten up the TA bolts too tight it will squak(!) like crazy, but no shock movement. For a no squak tension, the shock rattles on impacts.

The through axle has some play in the eyelet. But I think that is by design. This started happening AFTER I took it to a specialized dealer to replace all bearings less than a year ago.

P
If your have to loosen the axle enough that there is play in the shock eye to eliminate noise--something is wrong. I would guess a bad bearing; they got one pressed in crooked; there's dirt somewhere it shouldn't be; etc... The axle/nut should be tight enough to clamp the spacers against the shock so that there is no movement. There is also a recommended sequence to tighten things up so that the conical washers self-align like they are supposed to. It's possible that was not done and they are not aligning like they should--resulting in noise 'cause something is binding up. Take it back to the LBS or find a better one that know what they're doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Mr.P said:
Thanks but this end of the shock is bushingless on the Enduro/SXT. The conical washers on the sides of the shock handle the DU bushing duties (mine show no physical wear).

I wonder if I am just missing a spacer or washer.

P
exactly, and after Specialized Costumer Service don't want to discover the mystery about missing bushing, I'll go to their local to reveal me the magic:rolleyes: .

PS. I think that conical washers must be locked to eye of shock to be able to move with eye/shock over the axle to bearing maybe some radial torque - in that case I understand the clearance of 1-2mm between eye and pivot axle, but if washers are not linked with eye they will stay stuck and shock eye will be moving back-ahead
 

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WaveDude said:
There should be no movement of the axle inside of the shock eye--all that is handled by the bearings. There should be no sliding back and forth of the eyelet between the conical spacers--they should clamp tight to the eyelet and keep it firmly in place. Also there are no channels for anything to key into--friction keeps it all together. If your shock eye's are sliding back and forth after applying the proper toruqe to the axle/nut, something is out of whack.
Just for clarity (and thanks for the responses), there is no side to side movement in the conical washers nor the through axle. It is just the shock end moves for and aft within the tolerance of the eyelet/through-axle.

I can't get the tightness needed to "side clamp" the shock with the conical washers properly with the loud creak during pedaling.

P
 

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Mr.P said:
Just for clarity (and thanks for the responses), there is no side to side movement in the conical washers nor the through axle. It is just the shock end moves for and aft within the tolerance of the eyelet/through-axle.

I can't get the tightness needed to "side clamp" the shock with the conical washers properly with the loud creak during pedaling.

P
The shock end should not be sliding fore and aft. Everything there should be tight enough to keep it from sliding around. If it creaks when it's been tightened properly something is wrong/bent/out-of-alignment/etc... If you leave it loose to slide around like that, I suspect you will end up damaging something.
 

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WaveDude said:
The shock end should not be sliding fore and aft. Everything there should be tight enough to keep it from sliding around. If it creaks when it's been tightened properly something is wrong/bent/out-of-alignment/etc... If you leave it loose to slide around like that, I suspect you will end up damaging something.
I agree. I just tightened it back up for no shock movement, I had loosened it up to remove the squeek. I probably need find the source of the squeek. I'm going to pull it apart tonight and see what I find.

Let us know how it goes condename47.

P
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Here's the news: I talked with my local dealer and he told me that he will send the whole frame to Specialied for inspection.
Meanwhile I noticed something: when I disassembled the axle, there was a trace at one side of pivot bolt where the nut contacted with the frame ("A" at the picture)

- this part is at outward border of nut so in that case the torque is not at the center of the bearing but at the outer part of bearing - which is connected with the frame-so that part of bearing axle is not rotating. The other end of pivot axle has a ring with 1mm thickens ("B" at the picture) - in that way this end is connected only with the inner ring of bearing and is rotating.
I thing because of that fact the nut of pivot axle is self-unscrewing from the vibrations of riding. Resolution is to place a tiny disc:

in that way all pressure will be distributed to rotating parts of bearings (not to only one like before). I'll not put it in order not to void warranty.

Another strange thing: at all washers and spacers there are not very small clearance:
There is no option to align all that spacers/washers in some special way. The only option is to tighten them but obviously that doesn't matter...

PS...and obviously the eyelet is destroying the axle:
before ...and now
 

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codename47 said:
when I disassembled the axle, there was a trace at one side of pivot bolt where the nut contacted with the frame ("A" at the picture)

- this part is at outward border of nut so in that case the torque is not at the center of the bearing but at the outer part of bearing - which is connected with the frame-so that part of bearing axle is not rotating.
Huge thanks for the detailed write up codename47:thumbsup:

That worn off area (on "A" in the pic) looks exactly the same as mine - and I'm sure where my squeek was coming from.

I rebuilt the area and cleaned up the bearings. I also confirmed that the axle turns on compression leaving the through axle free.

codename47 said:
The other end of pivot axle has a ring with 1mm thickens ("B" at the picture) - in that way this end is connected only with the inner ring of bearing and is rotating.
Where did you get that 1mm thick ring below? Was it part of your set-up? I don't have that. I can't see it in the diagram and it would be perfect for the bolt side.

codename47 said:
I thing because of that fact the nut of pivot axle is self-unscrewing from the vibrations of riding. Resolution is to place a tiny disc:
I'm pretty sure my bolt would back out due to contact with the linkage, there is very little lock tite on the bolt - something I need to correct.

So far mine is back in action without issue and has no through axle damage.

P
 

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So if I understand correctly, the nut is bottoming out on the link itself instead of up against the bearing. That could explain why it keeps coming loose--I'd have to look at mine but I'm pretty sure that the link should rotate around the axle/nut w/o any contact. When your suspension works the link is loosing up the nut. I would agree that you should let Spec figure this one out before trying your fix.

That worn area is from the shock eye sliding back and forth and/or the axle rotating some. It should always look like the before pic because there should be no rotation of the axle itself--the bearings do all the work. The alignment you speak of comes from the conical shape of the washers. Mentioned before, you have to tighten the shock shuttle, front-eye bolt, and rear-eye bolt in a sequence to get them to self-align. There's a PDF doc up here somewhere with the sequence--I'm pretty sure you tighten the rear-eye up last. I put the bike upright on the ground, weight the seat a bit to compress the shock some, then tighten it up. This takes out what little play there might be between the axle and the shock-eye (or at least puts everything in position where it won't move anymore on big hits).
 
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